Packrafting from the Andens to the Amazonbasin: 2007
Translated by PROMT-Online-Translator
||Coroica, Kaka & Beni
||Caranavi, Rio Coroico, Rio Kaka, Rio Beni, Rurrenabaque
||About 300 km
||Mostly very well
Enough waters and food pick up
Nice tour on quick rivers in the Amazonasjungle!
|Paddle tour Rio Coroico: From
Caranavi we want to paddle over the rivers Coroico, Kaka and Beni
till the Jungletown Rurennabaque in Amazonia. For weeks I have tried
to find about one in La Paz in vain we have printed out a map of the
region and at last the map being on the notice board in the tourist
information abfotografiert, and einlaminiert. The distance of Caranavi
to Rurrenabaque is difficult to estimate, however, we suppose that
it might be about 250 - 300 km. According to current we plan with
7 - to 9 days and shop accordingly food. There are on the way though
some places, however how big they are actual we do not know. Directly
before our Hostel there flows a side arm of Rio Coroico and thus we
can puff ourselves up with the help of the ventilating fan our boats
in the twinkling of an eye before we on our trip in unknown ones transferred.
|Rapids: For us our boat stages are always
to be received something special, because it is nearly impossible
always very difficultly to, about the respective rivers some information,
let alone dependable information. About our current boat tour we know
merely that Rio Coroico should be level and quiet and that on the
rivers Kaka and Beni every now and then a ship has to go for tourists
wrong. The river is here in Caranavi the Hauptwasch and-badeanstalt
and thus we paddle past men them her cars standing in the river and
trucks scrub, to women wash them her laundry and to young person you
have assembled to the morning laundry. In a few stony flats we push
our boats a little bit and for the conclusion we still pass a military
shooting gallery running in parallel with the river. We are very grateful
for the short break in the fighting during us vorbeipaddeln the soldiers.
Hardly from Caranavi Rio will push Coroico then, nevertheless, substantially
more wildly than expected and every few metres we on rapids I would
classify than WW I-II. Nevertheless, our boats prove themselves very
well. Because we no hose covers have agreed we though every time a
few well-arranged piles of water in the boat, pass, however, otherwise
we the difficult places easily. So really fast we do not make headway
in spite of good current, nevertheless, because we are occupied constantly
to scoop the water from the boat.
|Involuntary bath insert: In the
first tag I do not pay attention with a few rapids so surely and before
I I provide I am driven directly towards a tree top lying in the water.
I make me quite half on an involuntary bath insert calmly, nevertheless,
anyhow I just still rush thus under some of the prickly branches through.
Actually, I have feared that the thorns slit the boat, however, fortunately,
only the watertight stack bag has a small tear as well as me a scratch
in hand and upper arm. This would have gone well over again. Then
in the second tag we come to a place in the current to us directly
to a cliff face presses. This time Nadine does not pay attention and
before she itself provides she already inserts an involuntary bath
insert. By the action we lose annoyingly two our drinking water bottles,
but otherwise everybody is (Nadine, boat, and cases in the stack bag)
|Nadine in aktion:
|Rio Kaka: After one and a half days we reach Rio Kaka.
Nevertheless, differently than Rio Coroico Rio Kaka is quiet a brown
broth and, moreover, by no means as expected. It goes furthermore
through the mountains and because we will have now more water the
rapids greater and a little more wildly. After the nice clear water
of the first both days it is funny anyhow to paddle in the slushy
brown water and in particular with the rapids it works in such a way,
as if one shook a cup of cocoa hard. A gigantic rock lump lies all
at once in a narrow place with the second tag in the middle of the
river. Nevertheless, though with our water level the place is easily
mobile demandingly. However, we find out from the other boaters that
there were many sometimes fatal accidents here in the rainy season.
Then with rising water level recorder the waves and whirlpools become
because bigger, so that even big boats capsize.
|Mayaya: Mayaya is the first bigger place we in the
morning of the 4th day happen. While Nadine in the upper village our
bread and biscuit stocks freshens I talk to the driver of a banana
cutter. Because the place has been at a distance a little bit, nevertheless,
the inhabitants have been surprised a little bit like us then have
|Gold panner: Some years ago gold was found
here in Rio Kaka and everywhere thus we hit on the river on the gold
panners who live here under easy tarpaulins. He would wash 1-2 grammes
of gold in the tag with his golden frying pan from the rock, one of
the gold panners believes just on the way back about his family in
Mayaya is. I mean a hard work, however, he means he must work for
it only 6 hours and it would be also so strenuous not, even if it
is quite quite cold constantly in the cold river to stand. It is not
the healtiest job, moreover, also, because the gold is released here
still with mercury what reduces of course also our paddle fun in the
brown broth. Nevertheless, some gold panners seemed to keep free to
themselves Sunday afternoon, because when we along them paddle many
sit on which rock at all above the river in the middle of the Jungle
(we it is often a riddle like they have come without boat there) and
enjoy the afternoon. Every time if we them happen they wave we would
become ebullient and mine become same of the dangerous rapids come.
The official golden price lies, by the way, at the moment with 18.23€
per gramme, however, thus a lot the golden seekers will not agree
|Dreamlike camp sites: As actually
always with our boat tours so we also have to find here again the
luck fantastically nice camp sites. The mosquitoes are reserved luckily
more or less, while the Sandflies are dear to us, nevertheless, now
and again earlier than us in the tent demand. Here after many cold
nights the sultrily warm temperatures are below, nevertheless, a little
bit unusual for us and thus we sleep, actually, mostly without sleeping-bag.
During on the Altiplano wind and traffic the only noise springs were
an unbelievable noise rules here in the Jungle. The animals them the
noises make presumably look even more adventurous than the noise them
make lets assume. In particular the cicadas are often so loud that
one can talk only with effort.
|Jaguar: In a camp site we discover big
clear tracks of tapirs and Jaguar. Because it also smells a little
bit strictly we suppose here the district border of one of the nice
big cats. A little bit rottenly Nadine is already to courage when
it is a crash at night constantly according to in the bushes, however,
apparently Jaguar has at the moment no appetite for thin bicycle tourists.
Quite differently than an Armeisenstamm which has eaten, attracted
by an empty chocolate row paper, by our tent ground. We have about
Saying 'du' big holes in the tent ground for I later several hours
will will need to mend around them.
|Rio Beni: Finally, we reach to Rio Beni here already
a big wide river is. Even if there hardly rapids is so we have mostly
still good current, so that we often can be laid just decayed in our
boats and done
|Great canyons: Rio Beni crosses another
two mountain ranges in those the high precipitous cliff faces often
to directly to the river approach. Here, actually, there should be
Anacondas, Jaguars, tapirs and Capybaras, however, up to two Capybaras
before us fast in the Jungle flee we get nothing to see. There are
merely parrots, water birds and gigantic butterflies richly.
|Rurrenabaque: Finally, after 6 days we
reach about midday the Jungletown Rurrenabaque earlier than expected.
We feel fine in the small small town surely and the comfortably activity
and many moped riders remind us strongly of the Luang Prabang situated
in the Mekong in Laos. Many tourists come to explore to Rurrenabaque
around the surrounding primeval forests and grass sceneries on controlled
tours. Nevertheless, controlled tours are not completely thus our
thing (even if one gets compulsory here a lot for his money, nevertheless,
one can observe on the pampas tours, among the rest, Anacondas and
freshwater dolphins) and thus we rather wander by the fruit market
and vegetable market and talk a little bit with the juice shop assistants.
|Nice coach journey: Back we go to Caranavi then
by the coach. Although the coach journey should last only about 270
km away 10 hours. Immediately in the end of the town the coach already
stops and both substitute drivers jump out around something in a shop
to look. Finally, the driver also gets out and when he just 15 m of
the coach is away this starts to stutter in and simply goes out. The
fright stands in a queue to our coach team on the face written and
the substitute driver reprimands immediately his colleague for which
reason he has got out generally. The case is clear: the starter of
the coach is broken, and thus we rise from by him again to bowl first.
During the next hour we urge another 3x in order food for a passenger
to purchase 5 watermelons for the coach drivers and oil for our coach.
Then the oil is also refilled immediately during the journey, because
the Öleinfüllstutzen is to be reached by a hatch in the
walk. After 3 hours we reach Yucumo where a half-hour lunch break
is included in the plan. While we just what eat the coach on the way
comes along in a plant town. After the lunch break then the info that
there are problems with the steering hydraulics and we would go on
only in one hour. We make it to ourselves on the seats in the taxi
stand comfortable and observe the activity of the small place. Nevertheless,
one seems to be rather run-decayed here, because instead of running
30 m to the motorcycle taxi stand the potential customers stand on
the door thresholds of the respective shops and shout rather for several
minutes to them of one of the Mopedjungs are puck up. Then the distances
are not also so far and it can feel well that one gives up himself
only 100 m farther to another shop. After the hour has passed by it
should go on at 10 minutes. 10 minutes stretch and at last we go on
after a 3-hour break. Because our coach team permanently in screw
was and no time had to eat what we give them our remaining bananas,
after one of the boys had asked us for a banana which they accept
though hesitantly, however, still thankfully. With nothing but joy
that the coach again runs we also set off immediately again and only
when a few women start to shout "Faltan pasajeros!" strikes
that another two passengers are absent. They have noted too late the
departure of the coach and now are postdriven by 2 Mopedjungs. One
rules playfully and happily mood and none of the passengers looks
irritated or irritated because of de delay. When the women find out
that our coach drivers have received no lunch they make a pilgrimage
one after other forwards around our heroes with delicacies to supply.
The friendly helpful kind of the Bolivianos impresses us strongly.
Now our coach driver tries to catch up the lost time again and races
we mad about the narrow dust runways. Everything what on the street
is he sells with his loud horn and we are glad that we do not meet
him on our bicycles. Although we a few more urge sometimes to examine
the steering system, finally, we reach after 14 hours of Caranabi.
The coach adventure offered, by the way, for just 3.50€ a top
to price performance relation :-))
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