Canoe-Trip on the Danube River: 30.07. - 31.08.2003
Translated by PROMT-Online-Translator
||Serbia + Bulgaria
||Mohacs, Apatin, Novi Sad, Belgrad, Dobro, Kladovo, Novo
Selo, Vidin, Russe, Silistra
||about 1150 Km
||Many towns and villages
None, because we were on the move with the TID
||A great paddle adventure!!
SERBIA: 30.07. - 16.08.2003
Route: Apatin, Novi Sad, Belgrad, Dobro, Kladovo
Distance: 620 Km (Canoe)
|Preface: The TID (an international canoe tour
from Germany to Bulgaria to which we have joined for 4 weeks) were
very nice and an experience were worth, so, unfortunately, we can
say only a little to the population and scenery off the Danube. Though
the war still has his tracks leave, but on the whole there rules relative
prosperity and we felt sure. However, unfortunately, the Serbians
have the bad habit to decontaminate her whole plastic garbage in the
Danube!!! Geheintipp: In Serbia there are the tastiest Pfirsische
| After the border control in the frontier
town Mohacs we went as one of the first boats to the water. However,
on the 47 km following now we were overtaken by a boat after to others.
In particular the last 10 km were very strenuous for Nadine and therefore
also for me. Who knows they a little bit better can introduce itself,
how much she has got angry :-))
|When we have arrived then in the evening, finally, in Apatin
(Serbia) half a place was already by the quay wall to observe us (the
canoeists of the TID) with the build of the tents. For us a very funny
feeling, because we have slept during the weeks before always somewhere
in the nature and were observed at most by an owl. However, the next
surprise do not read service long themselves. In the tour fee of 30€
for 18 days in Yugoslavia not only the tour organisation and the "overnight
stay fees" was included, but also a dinner. In almost every place
do not read it the municipality take to invite her guests to a dinner.
Just in a country like Yugoslavia, just, besides, is to be processed
a war a gesture not to be underestimated (victim). Partly, like in
Bogojevo, became from the dinner a right small public festival, with
brass band and tape. Half a village was present, celebrated and danced.
|Also the auxiliary readiness of the canoeists TID is unbelievable.
We had not arrived yet properly in Mohacs, there means of conveyance
were already organised for our bicycles. With pleasure we accepted
the offer to let pick up the bicycles the first week on the follower
of the Yugoslavian escort vehicle. As for the rest one stands to us
with all our problems with words and deeds aside. Is it with the unloading
of the boat or while sending on our second passports. Not to manage
our initial fears, in such a big tour group, have been confirmed anything
but. Although everybody puts back the same distance every day, everybody
can develop his day individually. There are idyllic sandy benches
to the notch and bathing more than enough. Thanks to the uncomplicated
and nice kind of the TID participants even Nadine slowly starts to
receive fun in the canoe driving. Meanwhile paddles you in spite of
a bubble in the small finger courageously and without beefing the
whole day :-)))))).
|Meanwhile we have arrived after 200 km in 5 days
in Novi Sad, a very tourist "seaside resort" on the Danube.
The "beach" of Novi Sad is able to come well and with pleasure
with some seaside resorts in Spain or Italy measure (many beach cafes
too nothing but music), with the only difference that one cannot have
a bath here in the sea sonder in the grubby Danube water, and under
the bridge destroyed by the Americans.
|The last travelog was hardly on-line put, we have worn out
the accumulators of our Pocket Pc something, so that all at once accumulator
and protection battery were at the same time empty. Because such a
Pocket Pc has, however, only one working memory, our picture editing
programmes had been also extinguished beside some files. However,
without this we can put no pictures on our Internet site. Therefore
we spent our free day in Belgrade with the desperate search for an
Internet cafe with laptop (I need because an infrared interface around
the programme again to play). Completely to Nadines joy we have wandered
thus the whole day by Belgrade. Unfortunately, without success, because
just in Belgrade they all were equipped very badly. We spent the rest
of our rest day with it, to us a small projection herauszupaddeln.
The both next day stages were attached with 50 and 62 km without current.
Then at 19:20 o'clock we are left for in Belgrade. Not exactly very
early if one thinks that it is pitch-dark here at the moment around
20:30, however, we had to pack only the bikes which we had now again,
besides into the boat. We are natural in the middle of the night hineingepaddel.
Actually very romantically, however if one still has no overnight
stay place, not exactly the biggest fun. Then, however, about 21:30
o'clock we have made a find.
|The next day we tried to hold the small
projection. We were meanwhile already in the middle of the back up
zone of the hydroelectric power plant Ðjerdap I and this time
therefore the overnight stay places were sowed scarce. Großkotzig
like us were, we disdained the first places in hope to find still
a better one. The riparian zone exists here, however, of woods partly
submerged in the water, so that the whole developed more difficultly
than expected. After over one hour of vain Sucherei we discovered
after a total of 50 km a level and dry place on the shore. The hook
in the case was that we had to struggle, completely to Nadines joy,
with boat by 20 m of mud to reach to the shore. Beside the fact that
we had a mud bath once again we still spent the night in immediate
nearness of a dredger which was occupied to far after midnight with
ear-deafening noise to excavate sand or grit from the Danube. Luckily
we had thereby shortened the longest day stage (62 km) on 43 km, because
it was also strenuous enough in such a way, on the standing waters
and in the bulging sun.
|Happily and exhausts achieved we in the afternoon (in this
evening the last canoeists reached the camp site at 21:30 o'clock)
the harbour from Veliko Gardiste. Here we became nearly witnesses
of an Ertrinkungsunfalles. We recovered just with a watermelon in
the area of the harbour layout and observed the local children with
beside the arriving canoeists have a bath. To free the place in the
pontoon of the border police for an arriving Roumanian passenger ferry
to drive off began a Georgian costs tractor with "full"
push. The whole water bubbled and some children still escaped to the
shore. Suddenly there ruled bright excitement. A girl was rinsed by
the strong current under one of the other freighters. Until the policeman
who reacted just vorbeischlenderte the other children have the costs
tractor by the loud shout to stand brought and had climbed the freighter.
Then after a while the girl has appeared between two freighters again
and was pulled with a rope at the shore. Then herewith the case was
dealt with for the policeman. Apparently the customs clearance of
the Roumanian passenger ferry was more important than to look after
the girl. He shooed away a few more children from the shore away and
wobbled of it. Also the captain did not hold for necessary itself
at least with the girl to excuse! In such accidents the danger insists
that one swallows unconsciously water in the lung which seeps then
slowly in the small Alveolen of the lung and can lead thus still after
many hours to the suffocation death. Hence, in Germany children are
introduced for 24 hrs to the observation in a hospital. Nadine asked
the Serbian journey manager this for them to the girl to translated,
however, also this was of the opinion that everything is in order
and refused his help. May be that with us in Germany everything is
a little bit überorganisiert, however, in such situations an
engaged help can damage on no account.
|In Dobro the municipality a special surprise contrived.
After the dinner a Serbian folk dance team appeared. Moreover one
had specially built up a stage on the sports field. Differently than
with us, however, no comfortable dance of older married couples in
national costumes, but nothing but young girls and men (till the middle
of 20) to us with igneous dances enchanted. Beside the participants
of the TID the whole population was gathered to enjoy the presentation.
Also this is only another example of the great hospitality which the
Serbians bring to your guests.
|After we had brought the longest day
stage behind ourselves we thought that now it can become even better.
Now, however, it was a matter still the "iron gate" to wear
out the breakthrough of the Danube by the capturing. Perfidious is
in this distance segment that strong down winds can decorate the partly
sea-like Danube widenings under circumstances a little more demandingly.
The first day stage was completely unproblematic with the glassy Danube.
In the morning of the 2nd stage we had even very good tail wind, so
that we were founded a substitute leech and with about 5 km/h dahinsegelten.
However, before the stage destination it was a matter still of crossing
the washbasin of Doni Milanovitsch. The Danube flows here by a basin
and is about 2 km wide on a length of approx. 8 km. The wind was so
strong meanwhile that because of the Kentergefahr in do not sail any
more was to be thought. In the basin the wind had so routed the Danube
that we had to fight beside the wind with up to 1-m-high waves. The
waves rolled constantly from the back near and I was, actually, only
with it the canoe on exchange rate occupies to hold. Our Ally Faltkanadier
rode the waves though unexpectedly well from (we not even had water
on the tarpaulin), however, his wind susceptibility gave a hard time
to us very much. When as if we would be on a Sunday afternoon drive
Nadine decided all at once to take a few photos. I was occupied too
much with the wind and the boat to be able to explain to her that
it is At the moment, nevertheless, a little bit too dangerously for
such experiments. Anyhow I find it over and over again first-class
as casually Nadine to some cases approaches. The photo was really
to be unpacked the last in which I have thought in this situation.
Unfortunately, the pictures because of the strong Schaukelei have
become nothing. Finally, without Kenterung we have reached Doni Milanovitsch.
A total of 5 experienced canoeists have capsized on this day, however,
up to lost glasses, a few lost sandals and a hole in a Klepper folding
canoe there were no bigger damages. About 10 wide canoeists had brought
themselves before the waves on the shore in security and were collected
by a coach. The surf was so strong that the foam here and there 10
m above quay wall splashed.
|The next day we had to fight in the
iron gate then with strong headwind. Here and there he was so strong
that we could hold the boat just right away (in spite of all strain
and meanwhile we paddle quite tolerably). However, this segment with
precipitous cliff faces on both sides of the Danube is regional extremely
attractively. On the Roumanian side there was even a cave in which
we are hineingepaddelt.
|After we had paddled now for days on
the standing Danube achieved we, finally, the sluice Ðjerdap I.
With two sluice chambers one overcomes in a good 1.5 hrs a height
difference of about 45 m. Completely exhausts achieved we Kladovo.
For some participants was here the end of your trip (the next morning
they were puck up by the coach), one rest day waved to us. Still in
the same afternoon we went of solving on the search for an Internet
cafe around our problem with the Pocket Pc, however, unfortunately,
Kladovo was too small for it. We decided to send the Pocket Pc with
one of the participants back to Germany (so that UFO can anew strike
up the programme) and to let bring along us to Silistra again. On
the way back we tried our luck in a small computer shop (Happily computer).
Without twitching with the eyelash one left us there to the company
laptop. I might also instal the Syncronisationssoftware on the computer.
Quick I had installed the programme again on the Pocket PC. Now only
the password was absent. I had sent a cry for help by email to UFO
in Belgrade (UFO has received him on mobile phone in Hungary and has
given itself so strong troubles that he has downloaded the mail immediately;
sorry and thank you) and now had to go only fast on the Internet.
Even as I would like to open the mail of UFO the computer recognises
a virus and drives down. The next 15 min. were the boys of happy of
computer then with it occupies the virus to find and to eliminate.
Then, however, with the second approach I could call away the email
and instal my picture editing programme ready. What a relief! The
next day they have still burnt to us our pictures on a CD. We might
not even pay something for the big help. With "a present of Serbia"
a head / employee of the shop handed to us the CD. Thank you very
much! (Unfortunately, I can work on the pictures, however, I have
made not öffen and!???)
|Back in our tent the next happy surprise already waited for
us. The package with our passports with visas (the Ukraine, Russia,
Georgia) had arrived by the coach of the home traveller. It was a
feeling like in Christmas when we opened the package to full tension.
Greedily we examined the content (passports, bicycle castle, pictures
of Nadines family, postcards from castle Lim (guest's presents), balloons
(for children), and a memory map). However, the best in the memory
map is not the map (sister Heike has sponsored to us, by the way,
UFOs; thank you!), but your content: Two admissions of Peter Grüns
to new songs. I was excited and happy like a small school boy when
I have belonged to myself the songs for the first time. Also Nadine
did not want to lay the photos at all from the hand. Almost we would
have missed before nothing but enthusiasm even the dinner.
|After a restful rest day the seriousness of the life
again shouted. Two day stages with 50 km, a sluice and the Bulgarian
border waited for us. Then about 15 km before the end of the first
stage the headwind got us. Then 6 km before the destination the wind
was so strong that we could not start any more against him. The shore
existed here of a sloping concrete wall. Around generally forward
we pulled to come and pushed the boat (nickname: "Racing snail"
and "swimming garbage waste dump" (everything flies only
in the boat)) along the shore. As a drainpipe to us the way obstructed
we have to do it again umpaddeln and expel far on the Danube. About
4 km before the camp site, we are just, besides, a ship chained on
the shore to umpaddeln, then we are saved by a Swiss / Bulgarian team.
The Schweitzer has by his motorboat already 3 Bulgarian folding canoes
in the towrope, and we are suspended without further ado with.
BULGARIA: 16.08. - 31.08.2003
Route: Novo Selo, Vidin, Russe, Silistra
Distance: 543 Km (Canoe)
|Preface: Thanks to the dam "Djerdap II" the
whole plastic garbage stays behind in Serbia. Thus loads the Bulgarian
Danube which reminds one with her white sandy beaches almost of the
Caribbean, to stroll and bathe one. Unfortunately, some industrial
towns have lain in Bulgaria directly with the Danube, so that latest
from soot the fun is over again. As well as, unfortunately, in Serbia
we can say nothing about the inland, because we were on the move "only"
on the Danube.
|Because we a lot of fun in the sailings
had we have done alterations our substitute leech meanwhile to a right
sail, and have already put back the first 10 km in Bulgaria successfully
with it. This is completely "paddle" to Nadines taste :-)
|Still a short postdistiller to our last
weekly report. Because we have found no more suitable Internet cafe
already since Belgrade, and also have searched the free day in Vidin
unsuccessfully, we wanted to try in Lom over again our luck. Before
we had already finished a 45-km-long stage. Unfortunately, the camp
site lay about 3-4 km beyond the town. Thus we got on the way, after
the tent was built up and was granted. After about 45 minutes on a
dusty country road we reached Lom, however because it itself around
a bigger place acted it still lasted for a while, until we had reached
the centre. Then the search for an Internet cafe lasted over again
nearly one three quarters of an hour in which we were sent several
times all over by the pelican crossing. Finally, we found in a normal
dwelling house a company plaque. First it went by an entrance past
a mother sitting there with her child. Unbelievingly we followed the
stair in the first floor, around then completely suddenly surprises
in an Internet cafe furnished absolutely anew to stand. A true joy
was to be worked on the new computers, and, unfortunately, one hour
later (the connection was very slow) was our both last weekly reports
then, finally, on our Internet site. When we arrived again with our
tent, it was already pitch-dark again. You see, we avoid almost no
strain to update our Internet site. If it lasts once more longer,
to us have fallen victim not to some kidnappers, but only once again
on the desperate search for a reasonable Internet cafe.
|In Vidin a miraculous presentation of a folk dance
team was presented to the participants of the TID. Beside the excellent
tänzerischen performance in particular the scenery made the evening
a special experience. It was danced because in a small old castle
layout. To the celebration of the day it was dipped by nothing but
small lamps in a romantic light.
|The following days demanded us above all paddlerisch. On
the first day, we had paddled just the first 20 km 45 km of day stage,
tail wind suddenly started. Of course we have hired immediately the
paddles and have drawn up our sail. How one could maybe recognise
on the last sail picture, we have converted our tent stick without
further ado into the mast. Because it is complicated, however, a little
bit to instal once more these every morning, now I build every evening
from our paddles substitute tent seaweeds (this goes just only with
a tepee :-)). We have sailed remaining 25 km then quite comfortably.
Our sail functions, by the way, so well, so that we can use even side
wind (to 90 degrees). We have spent the afternoon comfortably on a
Danube island with a white sandy beach. What one wants (or Nadine)
|The next morning, however, the disillusionment followed
directly. We had dawdled something with the breakfast and already
while charging the boat strong headwind started. Then the wind was
mostly so strong that he started to howl in our mast. Especially together
with waves (about 40 cm) it was to be depended very strenuous against
it. Every paddle blow required our whole strength. Actually, it is
still mysterious to us as we have mastered this 42-km-long stage.
Think the Danube current had in this area substantially, because,
otherwise, we would presumably be on the move even today. However,
unfortunately, it has gone out to some canoeists still much more badly,
because the last boats spun only after sundown one.
|However, 2 days later the luck was lovely
to us again. After about 10 km the Danube divided in two arms. Although
all the others the right arm followed we decided on the left arm.
Only late it became clear to us that the left Danube arm belongs to
the Roumanian sovereign territory. We might not have driven on him.
Occasional we feared even in a dead end to have reached. In total
we might have saved by this abbreviation about 3-4 km. Even as we
turn again on the main arm, a big push organisation (a freighter which
pushes several other ships) comes from the right. Already from other
canoeists we had belonged that a push organisation develops thus a
strong suction that one if one is about 1-3 m behind him comfortably
hinterherpaddeln is able. Of course we also wanted to try this. We
were quick at the side to the giant (presumably about 100 m long and
30 m wide) herangepaddelt. We let him quietly pass ourselves to hold
on then behind. The relief was tremendously. Comfortably we paddled
with a distance of about 1 m behind the freighter. Critically we were
observed by the occupying. When these had made sure after a few km
that we manage, we had our rest. Quick Nadine used the opportunity
to hold on with the paddle in a brace. Thus we can be dragged at a
speed of about 9.5 km/h the last 25 km of the SMOLIN 2. Later we still
received visit of two other canoeists and also on the other side used
another 3 wide canoeists this comfortable lift. Finally, thus we have
succeeded after more than 3 weeks in achieving at least once a "Top
Ten" result. Thanks to the abbreviation and the freighter we
were as quick, as the top flight of the driver's field. However, in
contrast to these we had not woken already at 4:30 o'clock in the
morning, already have 5:00 o'clock to pack the equipment with it begun
(and to wake up, besides, all the others) to be then sharp at 6:00
o'clock on the water (Hopes also really in such a way is, because
I know the times only from reports. We sleep because mostly till 6:30
o'clock and wake mostly only briefly with this frühmorgentlichem
activity). No, we have woken at 7:00 o'clock, at 8:00 o'clock losgepaddelt
and, nevertheless, at 13:00 o'clock after 48 km, faithful to the motto
"The last will be the first", arrived in the destination.
|Yesterday then we have retreated once again from
the troop to shorten 55 km of stage. We might divide the expected
lonesome sandy bank, however, with about 25 like-minded people. We
were recompensed for it even with a wonderful sundown and some mosquitoes.
|In soot, a big port and industrial town
on the Danube, the next rest day already waited for us. However, unfortunately,
the climbing out was extremely bad and the camp site was so far apart
that we were occupied just one three quarters of an hour to drag our
equipment by the area. We already already in Belgrade a camera team
about the place also marched here again. Also with me they tried to
make an interview. Unfortunately, the interpreter was able to do very
badly English, so that he could not partially translate the put questions.
Never mind I imagined and told simply cheerfully on it loose. Doubtfully
my English remained to me only like he again in the Bulgarian translated,
probably he did not make it differently than me and told something.
With this train of thought the subject was dealt with for the time
being for me. The next day (and with it means I the whole day) then
our Internet site was dedicated again (see visitors' book entry).
When we, besides, by chance in a hairdresser went past of 4 Lewa (2
euros) cost Martin's hair had to believe in it. The hairdresser was
very communicative in spite of her low knowledge of English and told
us something about the television, so that we thought that she has
an other job with the television. Then after some minutes we guessed
what you to us really wanted to say namely you Martin early in the
morning on television has seen. Now the surprise was big on both sides.
The hairdresser could hardly believe it, to us in her shop anzutrefen,
and us it was mysterious as you had geschaft to cut the interview
in a broadcasting-capable form. Unfortunately, what remained to us
covertly Martin on in Bulgarian said.
|On the day before last it is carried out tratitionsgemäß
the Danube baptism in a spring not far from the Danube. Though it
rules Unklaheit over where she is (km 411 or km 404), however, nevertheless,
at last they found the most. In the Schaten of the trees everybody
sat comfortably together, had lunch, ratscheten and waited for Neptune.
With a delay of at least 1 hrs (the first ones had gone again), then
it was so far. First one had to kneel down to himself on a bed of
stones. Then Neptune questioned the Täuflinge after name, origin,
entrance place, various river mileages, and similar. Every wrong and
also right answer was punished with a light blow of a bundle before
watered in water from shrub branches or was recompensed. At the same
time one was watered from the back by an assistant of Neptune (torturer)
constantly with a Schöpfkelle with water. If all questions were
cleared then to the satisfaction of Neptune, the real baptism came.
One might get up and agreed to a new name (Danube name: Nadine Möwe,
Martin Kaschalott (any big marine fish)) and was "blest"
with the wet shrub bundle. To the reward there was on a spoon a gulp
of red wine. No real pleasure, because one got poured At the same
time with the gulp of red wine some litres of mud water (water with
sheets and earth fortified) over the head. In total a rather humid-happy
|Now, finally, after a total of 32 days and about
1073 km we have arrived (Nadine) in Silistra. Also we could not avoid
the general hectic rush any more. Now one meant to wash boat in the
midday heat (1 water hose for more than 100 boats) and pack, equipment
umsortieren and bikes make ready with trip. From "mother and
dad" we got as a gift on parting one more F sharp cirque ax,
and One exchanged Nadine with Sepp the book "Dull White"
(very much to recommend) against a thermos jug. The next possibility
with the canoe would be to be driven at the earliest the Nile. Hence,
we decided to use to send back the favorable opportunity the boat.
Hubertus and Hiltraud go because the next week after castle Lim to
attend his parents, and they have agreed kindly to pick up the canoe
(thank-you). We squandered the last 3 Lewa (1.5€) with the shopping
(tomatoes, yoghurt and bread) and in an Internet visit (0.5 Lewa/hrs).
We spent the farewell party at a noble hotel in Silistra with all
kinds of dance presentations and honour.
|In total a huge enrichment of our trip, apart from
the fact that showed the TID to Nadine, allow to move except with
the sailings and with from the freighter, properly fun in the paddle
never had. It has surprised in particular so many active older people
(till 83 years to us!) to find. The day stages are not really loose
with partial more than 60 km. Also the fact that one every night in
his tent spends is for participants who come from countries in which
already young persons enjoy her summer vacation in a "Mehrsternehotel"
in the Caribbean, already an unusual performance. Unfortunately, there
were not enough younger participants from Germany and Austria (except
us only second German and an Austrian) what is also due to the fact
beside the long tour duration (2 months of Ingolstadt to Silistra)
absolutely that the trip is physically strenuous. However, according
to our opinion just young people could profit very much from the experiences
of the older participants. In Puncto cosmopolitanism (Rodney wants
to afford a computer with his 77 years to Christmas to be able to
go then to the Internet) and auxiliary readiness (see Faces) does
not fall it hard here some good models to find. Very wittily we appeared
the fact that there are a lot of different kinds, and to experience
the same trip. On the TID there were several different little teams.,
On the one hand, there was the "early shift" (or "Früh-morgens-Paiktruppe"
or "refugees"). Although officially only from 6 o'clock
the tents may be diminished, then these often were on the move long
time ago. The destination of this team seemed to be to reach as quickly
as possible the next overnight stay place to get hold then of the
best shady camp sites. The "late shift" (or "formed
the contrast to it Night shift"). After they had got a good night's
sleep of morning in complete silence, they committed a crime the day
more afloat than paddling on the Danube and on various beaches to
reach the camp site then in the evening shortly before sundown. An
other team looked at the tour as a sort of "cone association
excursion". Destination was to be headed it possibly many restaurants.
Sociability and a well-arranged drunkenness in the evening seemed
to be here the destination. Finally, there were still the canoeists
to whom the nature experience and the rest were important. In the
morning they are left for mostly relatively early to spend then the
day on some sandy benches. Then on time before the dinner they mostly
reached the camp site. Would write to each of these teams a travelog,
one could think that it concerns completely different tours. For the
conclusion we would still want for many nice conversations which thank
to many tips and the help. We hope that again more more recently people
want to discover the charm of the TID and therefore the TID from "become
extinct" is saved :-)).
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