Torres del Paine: March 2007

Translated by PROMT-Online-Translator

Country: Chile Tour / Mountain: Torres del Paine
Start: Puerto Natales End:  
Distance:   Time: 9 days
Supply: Self sufficient but also huts and restaurants

tough weather and many tourists

Rating: the red torres at sunrise are worth the effort!
By coach and boat into the park (Chile).: By the airline we already lacked a day and thus we decided to go not only by the coach sonder still with a catamaran directly to in the middle of the park to be able to use Birtes valuable time optimally. Then in the Lago Peoe Nadine awaited us and twe came along on the way in the Valle del Frances.
Valle del Frances (Chile).: After we had spent our first night in the Campamento Britannico the next morning we enjoyed the wonderful morning mood surrounden from mountaintops. At 10:30h we had finished our extensive breakfast, just on time, before all those that had spent the night below in the valley arrived.
Lot Cuernos (Chile).: The probably most imposing rock formation in Torres del Paine are the Los Cuernos (horns). Particularly in the play of the morning sun with the clouds the bright rocks with the dark points look especially impressive.
Lunch break (Chile).: Lunch break on the way from the Campamento Cuernos to the Campamento Torres. As with all travelling tours we have in our thermos jug hot water. 1 litre is exact enough to conjure a cup of tea and 2 lunches for 2 people. After the water for the tea is teken out the noodles for our Asia noodle snacks are filled in the thermos jug, so that they can stream. If the tea is drunk the noodles are also ready, so that we pour them in our bowls and stir the sauce powder in. Without using a stove we have thus within a few minutes a hot drink and a warm meal what is a luxury not to be underestimated (or a gigantic security aspect in particular on cold, windy and rainy days, because one can cool down very easily if one must unpack the stove to make a warm meal).
Knee problems (Chile).: Then in the third day Birts knee became apparent bad before the Campamento of Torres , and although she hhas strong pain we make it still to the camping site. Birte is not alone with her knee pain, nevertheless which already before had struck us that there here a lot of travellers is by the area hobble.
Torres del Paine (Chile): After these three rocks the national park was named. After an extremely steep slope one reaches the glacier lake below Torres del Paine, already under normal conditions a magnificent view.
Morning mood (Chile).: The highlight of the national park is the view of Torres at sunrise. Also we want to have a look at the spectacle of nature, nevertheless, Martin is a little bit too late because he stayed too long in bed. Because Birtes knee has not become better yet a lot we let Nadine run ahead, while I took a little slower pace with Birte. Nadine came so though a little bit out of breath, but exactly at the time in the view point in when the mountains from grey about matt changed colour red in radiant orange! Birte and I can catch only the view at the last points of the summits and when we arrive at the view point the mountains are grayish again. While all the other tourists start now the descent we unpack our thermos jug and drink first of all comfortably a cup of tea, before we start again to the descent.
Plan B (Chile).: Already on half a way from the view point back to our tent it caught in to rain and as it keeps on raining we decide toin our tent fort the rest of the day. The next morning Birtes knee is better , however, to play it safe we decide our tour to put down something. Instead of continuing the circumnavigation of the Torres we run back to the park entrance. There us takes a coach with Birte to the Lago Pehoe and us to the administration go. While Birte again travels with the catamaran over the lake to the Campamento Pehoe Nadine and I hike from the park management to a camping site. Because we had to wait very long for the coach, nevertheless, the daylight was not sufficient for us any more, so that we meet after an overnight stay in the Campamento Carretas the next morning again Birte. From here we want to have a look together at the Glaciar Grey.
Glaciar Grey I (Chile).: As well as the glacier Perito Moreno and the Glaciar Geike Glaciar Grey makes his way from the Campo Hielo Sur to a glacier lake. Only a few steps of the Campamento Grey one comes to a very nice view point from one can admire the glacier and some icebergs.
Icebergs (Chile).: Also on the Lago Grey there are swimming icebergs, even if they can keep up with those on the Lago Geike they are lovely.
Glaciar Grey II (Chile).: Nevertheless, one has the substantially nicer view of the Grey of glaciers if one follows about 1.5 hours the footpath. There the way runs parallel with the gigantic glacier and so one can admire him in his whole size.
Ice Hiking (Chile).: While Birte spends one night alone I go with Nadine further to the Campamento Paso. Because Birte wants to save her knee rather is our plan that Nadine goes to complete the Circuit from here over the pass alone, while I plan to do one more small paddle tour with Birte. In the Campamento Paso we follow a beaten path which leads to directly to the glacier. Already in Ushaia we had got ourselves Grödel (for not alpinists: Grödel are the slight version of grampones, however only suitably if the ice is relatively level). So we pull our Grödel over the shoes and transfer us on the ice. Unfortunately, the ice is very bumpy, so that the short points of our Grödel do not work really well, but at least, we can turn a small round.
Nadine alone on tour (Chile).: After only two hours I had defeated the very precipitous increase of the Paso John Gardner. On account of this precipitous increase it is recommended to go anticlockwise and then to go down the precipitous side of the pass. I was the only one that has gone clockwise and thus I had the privilege to be in all view points completely alone. The weather was perfect, I could look down rom the pass on the glacier with no cloud in the sky, and see all surrounding mountains.
Camping Dickson (Chile).: Because I arrived already at 13.00 o'clock in the camping place I decided to ignore this and to use the good weather and to go to according to map further 4 hours to camping Dickson. On my my way I came in the glacier lot Perros as well as in some wonderful view points the back of Torres del Paine pointed before I, finally, in the Casmping Dickson with his marvellous view arrived.
Torres with sunrise (Chile).: Also the next day I did the travelling distance most would do in two days in one long day. The next morning I could admire therefore over again the sunrise and the red colouring linked with it Torres from my tent. Now I had to go only by coach at the other end of the park to change there again to the bicycle and cycle 90 km back to Puerto Natales . Because this, however, for a day, however, was a little bit too much I spent the night 20 km of Puerto Natales situated national park..
Outdoor Disney World "Torres del Paine" (Chile.) : Torres del Paine Nationalpark is promised in many guides as the highlight in Patagonia and the businesslike Chileans have used this of course also immediately for her adview. Starting from the fact that foreign tourists pay almost the fourfold admission price up one finds to many five-star hotels (overnight stay for 1000, - $) in the park. We have every now and then the feeling that it here not this is why goes of protecting the nature and of allowing an insight into a unique world to visitors (at least, the park is an UNESCO World Heritage), but therefore here possibly a lot of money is to be earned. Prices for a 2-day kayak tours is between 500, - to 800$ orone can do a half-day glacier tour for 130$. So far the highest prices that we have seenin the world (in New Zealand a 3-day paddle tours comes for 250$ or all-day glacier tours for 70$) . Because the park management has also sold the exclusive use of almost all rivers as concessions to private companies here one may not paddle except on Rio Serrano also as a private individual (presumably also unique in the world).Also the park ranger could not persuade us really. Instead of taking care of the park (especially on the way to the view point Torre one must search for himself because mainly his way in the stone field himself what of course worsened the erosion) have concentrated a lot of ranger more on it also to invite all only travelling girl in the evening to to the party in their ranger house! As already said, the park is really very nice, however, thanks to the tourist masses here yearly and by the fact that the salary in the park visitors before the nature conservation seems to stand leave with us with a sad feeling. For us Torres del Paine resembles rather Outdoor Disney land than a national park. Fitz Roy NP in Argentina was much better.




available for


50pages, 80 b/w photos, background infos, stories, ...

Just send your donation to our

Pay Pal account:

and email us your post address and we´ll send it to you.


Like to place your Ad here?

Just e-mail to:


You liked our website and like to contribute?

Our Pay Pal account is: