New Zealand: 05.12. - 07.05.2006

Translated by PROMT-Online-Translator

Route: Wellington, Upper Hut, Greytown, Martinbourough, Lake Ferry, Cape Palliser, Greytown, Wellington, Picton, Nelson, Reefton, Greymouth, Hokitika, Franz Josef, Fox, Haast Paß, Wanaka, Queenstown, Glenorchy, Caples Treck, Milford Sound, Routeburn Treck, Rees Dart Treck, Glenorchy, Queenstown, Alexandra, Middlemarch, Dunedin, Oamaru, Twitzel, Lake Pukaki, Lake Tekapo, Geraldine, Christchurch, Motueka, Abel Tasman, Motueka
After 2.5 years we have arrived at the other side of the wirld in New Zealand!!!!! We have cycled 37,500 km and paddled 3000 km with our canoe to come here. Now we will remain possibly till September, 2006 in New Zealand before it further goes to South America, more exactly for said to Padayonia.
132. Weekly report 06.12. - 11.12.2005 

Route: Wellington, Upper Hut, Greytown
Immigration: Like Australia New Zealand also wants to prevent so (of course I think in each case the government and not the countries) that new plants and illnesses are introduced. After we have cleaned our whole equipment in Australia for about 4 days, without it was seriously examined, we are content to clean for New Zealand our bikes only an afternoon to long. When we pick up in Wellington our pockets of the customs we have in one of our pockets several yellow seals with the tip that this pocket must be examined by the quarantine official. Our worry increases when an officer comes to us and believes that her feel dog has shown active interest in the pocket. Has somebody packed at the end drugs into our pocket? We open our pocket the only both food we, besides, points the official us have (not all food may be introduced), a notice board chocolate and a packet Kaffe (a present by Jatinder and Angela. The officials are confused. What has the dog been thundering and lightning then? Finally, of the riddle solution: The dog is to be to tracked down on it trained fresh food. Because we, however, in our bicycle pockets permanently fruit and vegetables advance they smell for the dog of course extremely of food. After this problem has dissolved in pleasure only even our bikes, more exactly are examined said the tyres, before we are dismissed from the quarantine control.
Wellington: We spend our first day in New Zealand in Wellington, government seat and second largest town of the islands. Wellington makes "town of the hoist" all honour to his nickname and a nearly hurricane-like storm blows us almost from our wheels. This can still become cheerful. Wellington itself lies on the edge of a gigantic bay on several hills distributed what to here live absolutely is very pleasant, however, to a bicycle tourist the life very difficult makes. Nevertheless, for sightseeing we have in the first day no time there Martin only still his visa must extend and we, moreover, only again our stocks of food must invest.
Therm A Rest and MSR: Our Therm A rest sleeping mats does not want to puff itself up for some time properly, while with a hassock the Außematerial of the foam has taken turns. Already in Australia we wanted to trade with the importer there (Speleen) the mats, nevertheless, they have lifelong guarantee. To our astonishment it was explained to us of Speleen that we used our cases too intensely and, hence, the lifetime would have already expired (after only 2 years). We have there something else understanding of lifetime and from after-sales service and turn so over again to the company Ampro, the importer in New Zealand. After a short view at our mats we get absolutely of course the defective hassock traded, while they solve the Aufblasproblem with a new valve immediately (the old valve had stuck in the foam). When I with them in the warehouses am I see that they also import MSR, the manufacturer of our petrol cooker. I ask what one can do if to himself the adjusting screw no more completely concludes and is asked to bring forward our cooker. Well, the cooker looks wild just already in a little bit, nevertheless, has pinned in India the cleaning cable thus and has blocked the cooker that heat up it only after strong one and primitive power again was to be moved. Afterwards we had to shorten the quite aufgesplissene cable and anew let solder. Later in Laos a poetry was leaking, so that all at once the whole cooker was aflame and some of the plastic shares of the pump are braised a little bit. As the boys of Ampro the burnt pump see they trade them for safety reasons immediately. Now they do not try to give us a new cleaning cable for the generator, nevertheless, as them after 5 minutes yet have got to thread it in the generator we still get a new generator missed! What an after-sales service!!! We will think back at the next comfortable nights on our mats and with the next noodle soup a few more sometimes thankfully to the boys of Ampro (
Lord of the ring: Like us everybody knows "man of the rings" trilogy in New Zealand was turned. Many of the locations are meanwhile popular tourist places, although nearly all scenery was already diminished again. The park in the background was used, by the way, for the scene in the gardens by Isengard, in the Saruman the nice old trees splits leaves around the fires for his weapon factory to poke.
Rimutakka Incline: From Wellington we want to Greytown to Ann and John and must cycle before still about the Rimutakka of rank (a steep mountain range). Because the high street is driven on very strongly we cycle about the Rimutakka Incline, one to a cycle track and footpath developed old railway route. The bicycle distance is more than only wonderfully and a true joy to cycle.
Fell Trains: The eastern side of the Rimutakka of rank is extremely steep and to be able to scale them by rail certain Mr. Fell has special, now after him named railroad engines developed. The rails for the fur railroad engines have an additional rail provided with gaps in the middle. Now a waagrecht lying gearwheel reaches crosswise in the gaps of the rail, so that the locomotive always has optimum Grip and can climb thus 15 m 1 m upwards (normal trains create a relation of 1:30). To pull the heavy goods trains over the mountains were at the same time necessary up to 6 locomotive motives. Even the departure was so violent that a clause of brake blocks has passed mostly only one departure (about 8 km).
Private Property: In New Zealand there is no free Betretungsrecht for the nature and private farm country may not be entered. After the railway company was stopped after completion of a big tunnel after the Second World War, a farmer has purchased a piece of the country and has closed for the public admission, so that we cannot cycle the last 2 kilometres on the railway route. On partly very much a narrow and steep path we cycle and push thus the last kilometres through the undergrowth and past steep slopes.
Attention! On the last metres of the Rimutakka Incline Nadine hears all at once the ring minds (lord of the rings share 1) before himself and decides for safety's sake in the bushes to go to cover.
John and Ann: John and Ann are two Mittsechziger the year letzes we in the Spiti Valley in of the Indian Himalayas have hit. At that time John and Ann were to be conquered with her tandem, besides, the mountain world of India and we have found them at a height of just 4000 m. We wanted to have in the same direction and thus we a few nice days together spent. At that time at last have invited to us John and Ann that we should attend them, nevertheless, in Greytown in New Zealand and now here we are.
Tramping: Tramping is the New Zealand word for hiking. John is an eager Tramper and member in two Tramping clubs and thus it is no miracle that he took us to a tramping tour. Together with the members of "South Wairarappa Tramping Club" it goes in the Tararuas, mountain ranges straight through the southern part of the North Island. No matter whether west wind or east wind, all clouds rain in the Tararuas and it is mostly wet there. Most participants are already in the retirement age, however, this is not a comfortable afternoon walk. The first 1.5 hours it still goes on a footpath uphill and downhill, however, then it goes into the bush, in the unmarked area. We follow a mountain stream and, finally, it goes uphill in a direct line. It is steep, exactly said very steep, however, even the more than 70-year-old participants master this and the regular showers with bravado! After a total of 8 hours with a half-hour lunch break we are safe again back at the starting point.
WET SOCKS: First we thought, we would cross only once briefly the river and so we hopped from stone to stone to get no wet feet. But to all other participants of the travelling tour the river made no difference, and so they have simply run through the partial almost knee-high water. After the third river crossing slowly dawns to us that we cross the mountain stream here not only briefly, but run in the middle of him uphill; him virtually as a footpath use there right and left thick brushland is. We venture also the jump in the cold water, however, thus properly we cannot make friends with the wet feet. Nevertheless, to the kiwis, as themselves the New Zealanders name after the so named bird with pleasure themselves, wet feet seem make no difference. A participant raves on us even as great it is with wet feet or socks, because one receives so less bubbles and John has rinsed before beginning of the tour his travelling boots even with water.
133. Weekly report 12.12. - 18.12.2005 

Route: Greytown, Tararua
Tramping trip in the Tararuas: Together with John we explore the Tararuas again on a 2-day tour. Of course there are again river crossings and showers and therefore of course also nice wet socks, even if we cross the first river still on a long suspension bridge.
Short rain break: Shortly before the mountain hut where we want to spend the night it stops to rain all at once. The sun comes out and dips the rain forests in a charming light.
Slide show in Wellington: Already in India John has asked me, to prepare a small slide show for the Tramping club in Wellington. Inspired by the idea I have thus in agonising night work of several hours to reduce our travel experiences to a 75 minute slide talks (normally the free slide talks taking place weekly last here only 45 minutes!!!). We make digital pictures and thus projection was no problem. Nevertheless, unfortunately the demonstration date lay during the Christmas period and, besides, at the same time with the premiere of King Kong (for which specially half a city centre was closed), so that only 40 club members came. Not at all so badly in consideration of the fact that in all Tramping clubs are organised in New Zealand a total of only 10016 members (375 in Wellington).

134. Weekly report 19.12. - 25.12.2005 

Route: Martinbourough, Lake Ferry, Cape Palliser, Greytown

The Putangiura Pinnacles (cape Palliser): John and Ann have invited us to Christmas. Because it, however, still about one week to and the holidays is they recommend us a 4-day cycling tour all around the cape Palliser. On the 2nd day we do not come to the so-called Pinnacles, rock leachings to those of Kapadokien in Turkey unlikely. With my first approach to find the Pinnacles, I do not come in the determining putting on one side as signposted after 30 minutes already separate after 12 minutes and simply follows another path. Permanently holding after the putting on one side look out, I return after 1.5 hours of undone things again to Nadine, however, I find with the second expiry then, finally, the nice side valley. The Pinnacles were used, by the way, in man of the rings as a location for "Dimholt Road".
Old people's home for bulldozer: Ngawi, a small fishing place in the cape Palliser, is the last working place of many bulldozers which find here a quiet job for her old days after a hard and long life. Here they are used because to pull the fishing boats stored on followers in or from the water.
Sea lions: In the cape Palliser a sea lion's colony (New Zealand Fur Seal) lives in the middle between the rocks. Nevertheless, too near one should not come the journeymen, because in particular the bigger bulls defend her districts absolutely and her set of teeth 3x is stronger than that of a strong dog. Unfortunately we have sent in Australia our snorkel cases home here, otherwise, we could have snorkelled easily with the sea lions.
Lighthouse in the cape Palliser: If a painter might select to himself the perfect location for a lighthouse picture, his choice would presumably fall on in the sturmumstosten cape Palliser situated lighthouse.
Bath pools: Falling mountain brook 2 wonderful pools has formed one by the rocks in the valley a few kilometres after the cape Palliser. Although the water is quite fresh, nevertheless, we have a lot of fun with a short bath.
Who loves his wheel him pushes: We must immediately push several hundred metres our wheels by the fine grey stone uphill. Even at cold temperatures a sudorific affair.
Sheep: Although though the kiwi the heraldic animal of New Zealand is so does not have to say still long that sheep are liked less. Nearly everywhere one hits on sheep, nevertheless, New Zealand is the nation with the biggest Schafpopulation per inhabitant. Particularly the famous soft merino wool to producing sheep are liked here very much and are spread.
Without words:
Sheep grooming: Also John and Anne have Saying 'du' sheep who graze peacefully on the meadows round her house. In particular some older sheep already have a so thick wool that the excrement gets stuck directly in the fur. Nevertheless, thanks to the help of a neighbour the thick, stinking Troddeln simply turn with fleece scissors cut-off.
Vaccination: After the small fleece the sheep get one more vaccination against intestinal parasites with a special syringe given. After successful vaccination every sheep receives a red mark on the head so that nobody is twice inoculated.
Christmas service: In the 24th afternoon it goes with Ann in the child service. Nadine is a guest of honour and tells the visitors small a little about our German Christmas traditions with ice and snow of course a little bit are different, as the New Zealand with 20°C - 30°C. Afterwards all visitors are split in teams and may paint episodes from the Christmas history and the part about the long trip of the "manners from the Orient" closes of course to us.
Kiwi Christmas fancy cake: Here the not less tasty New Zealand variation of a Christmas tunnel. In addition, there are still small "apple strudel tartlets".
Christmas 2005: We most suppose already we spend Christmas together with Ann and John which four children are everybody already from the house and which do not come this year also for visit (nevertheless, not because of us). We are the spare children from overseas and are also presented richly. Nadine receives a few selftinkered travelling floors and me Lonely Planet New Zealand.
Child home of Jemo: Fahradriksha: Do you still remember our visit at a child home in Jemo in Inden? At that time we have collected donation money on our Internet site and have handed over this then man and Mrs. Roy, heart and soul of the project. With a share of the money a Fahrradriksha with which a family can gain from now on her own living was purchased.
Child home of Jemo: Wells: The second half of our donation money was invested in a well. Access to fresh drinking water is absolutely of vital importance and not everywhere in the world one must open up for it just the tap as we know meanwhile.

135. Weekly report 26.12.2006 - 01.01.2006

Greytown, Tararuas

"Wet Socks" part 2: Up to now there were only wet feet with,but uwalk with aon a hike with Ann it got tougher. First it went again directly in the small river. Then, however, in a narrow canyon the stream course formed all at once a small lake and before we realised it we stood already about the bellybutton in the water!!! Immediately several times we stood in the course of this tour about the hip in the ice-cold water. I can still remember well that I have seen some years ago the advertising of a New Zealand backpack company in which they have touted that her backpacks are watertight even if one walks through the deep water. At that time I still imagined "What nonsense! Who walks voluntarily through the deep water!!!"
Bee-sting: John has a few bees and when I was just behind the garage I was suddenly stung by one. I have removed the sting and, imagined nothing serious. Then, nevertheless, in the evening my eye had already quite swollen and the next morning it was complete swollen. We wanted to go on a hiking tour and thus we got Anti allergy tablets at the chemist's . However, in spite of tablets it has lasted another 2.5 days, until the swell has gone down.
Tramping in the Tararuas: In spite of eye we went with Ann and her daughter Jannet on a trekking tour of several days into the Tararuas. The destination was, actually, a crossing of the southern mountain range, however, because of unclear weather conditions (fog and storm) we have rather refused to go about the open heights. Because Jannet does not like to stay in a hut we carry our whole camping equipment (tent, Isomatten, sleeping-bags, cookers) Although we had this time no river crossing we had a lot of fun.
High-level moor: The only water supply on the summit plateau of the Cone are a few wonderful water pools.
Fairy tale wood: The Tararuas are extremelywindy wind mountains with a lot of rain. Accordingly the trees grow only to a certain hight (maybe 3-4m). On top they are cut like with scissors by the strong winds. By the frequent rain these woods form a paradise for mosses and lichens, the trunks close covered. Our footpath on the Cone ridge has led us several hours by these wonderful woods. The woods were so fantastically that they have looked already almost kitschy, and a we would not have been the slightest surprised if a small fairy or an elf would suddenly appear behind a bush.
Sylvester: We have spent the New Year party again with Ann, while John was on a trekking tour of several days in the highly alpine area on the south island. As well as already Christmas do not take so the kiwis also from Sylvester completely as importantly as we Germans and thus lay we at 23:30 o'clock already in our beds.

136. Weekly report 02.01. - 08.01.2006

Wellington, Picton, Nelson, Reefton

Storm in Wellington: Wellington is, as everybody knows, the "town of the hoist", however, in the new year we were surprised by a well-arranged storm. Actually, we wanted directly from Wellington with the ferry on the south island translated, however, all ships were booked up, so that we had to wait two days in Wellington." There ruled a well-arranged wind, however our new tent (Space II) will already have to stand this if it wants with to Padayonia", we imagined. For safety's sake we have built up the tent, nevertheless, in a little bit sheltered from the wind corner on the tent meadow beside the Hostel. In the beginning were built up beside our tent one more whole series of other tents, however, with progressive day and permanently rising wind speeds the tents either have broken up themselves or were packed by her owners voluntarily again. The storm became violent (we heard from wind speeds to 180 km/h), nevertheless, our tent stood like One. Not really we were surprised when from at first to more than 20 tents the next morning a total of even 5 were left (incl. ours)!
The worlds fasts Indian: New Zealand is not only famous for his magnificent sceneries and for "man of the rings", but also for very much an unconventional kiwi: Burt Monroe. Burt lived in the middle of the last century and had to break the idea with his Indian (an old American motorcycle brand) speed records. Many years he dedicated tuning of his Indian and, finally, he immediately succeeded several times new speed records in installing. Be record set in the 60th (with just 200 miles / hours has still unbroken, by the way! About the history about the quick kiwi there is, by the way, an absolutely worth seeing film! Dad museum is to be visited the quick Indian in the Te in Wellington
Cook Street: New Zealand exists of two main islands and during the summer months (January in New Zealand is comparable with July in Germany) we wanted on the south island around this at the best season to experience. Because the islands for a bridge lie too far apart there is of Wellington to Picton a Fährverbindung about the so-called Street Cook (named to Captain Cook).
Marlborough sounds: To come to Picton on the south island the ferry has to do first sounds by the wonderful fjord scenery of the Marlborough. Already from the ferry the Marlborough sounds are wonderful to explore many lonesome booking, however, with a sea kayak must be really dreamlike.
Andreas: On the ferry we are on Andreas, a German architect pushed. Andreas has taken a one-year-old time out and now makes the world with his "Around the World Ticket" and his bicycle unsafe. Andreas is "half-professional" at home, actually, racing wheel and MTB-and the fact that he is on the move here with the touring bicycle is already very unusual. However, still much more unusually is, that to cycle he instead of in his usual tempo has joined us for a few days. Thanks to Andreas the violent headwind of Picton to Hokitika was only not so bad.
Old-timer: In New Zealand no salt on the street is strewn in winter and here thus there are exceptionally a lot of old-timers. On the streets we have seen so already enough pieces of jewellery they would manage to fill several museums. Only if nothing more is to be made, the old cars receive the last place of rest.
137. Weekly report 09.01. - 15.01.2006

Route: Greymouth, Hokitika, Franz Josef, Fox, Haast Paß
In New Zealand there are the railway bridges which are used by trains, cars and other road users together. Not only the fact that the kiwis save a bridge, the together used bridge is still so narrow that it can be used only in the mutual one-way traffic. Woe to the cyclist who comes mistakenly to one of the rails.
Bath lake: Who needs already a warm shower if it free bath lakes like these gives. Of course we have the opportunity immediately to an extensive bath and to the laundry wash used. Here for 4€ converted per nose we Could even have spent the night.
Rain!!!!! All the same where one looks in New Zealand, everything is green! No miracle, nevertheless, here it rains often and violently. Above all if the wind on north west turns and brings warm wet clouds from the tropics, it can become especially wet on New Zealand west coast, nevertheless, the clouds must calm down before they can cross the up to 3000-m-high mountains. After lasting for days strong wind from southwest (for us headwind) the wind suddenly turned on north west and promptly we already sat in the flowing out rain. And if I write here rain, I really mean rain and not only a few raindrops. We had put back just 30 km as the sky his sluices opened and when we after a total of 90 km shortly before Franz Josef our tent hit we were already soaking wet up to the underpants. In the sleeves of my rain jacket (which should be watertight thanks to Gore Tex, actually, 100%) gathered regularly so much water that I had to tip out it! After a difficult camp site search and an even more difficult tent construction we succeeded sometime to us in creeping away in our tent. The whole night rained it further in streams, nevertheless, luckily we are not outswum. The next morning at 8:30 o'clock Andreas came again to us cycled, meant, the rain would soon stop and about 10:30 o'clock we could still take part in a glacier tour on Franz Josef Gletscher. So one meant to diminish everything and in Franz Josef (Franz Josef is the tourist place situated in Franz Josef Gletscher) in a Hostel check in around our bikes during the tour at a sure place to know and to be able to enjoy one hot shower, moreover, in the evening. You cannot introduce yourselves at all in the morning as pleasantly it is still quick only the soaking wet things wringing out, before one draws them again!!! When then, finally, everything was packed we still cycled in the rain after Franz Josef to check in there in "Glow Worm" (glow worm). However, for the glacier tour we were too late meanwhile, because 3/4 day trips was already fully booked up, so that we have spent the rest of the day primarily with it to us and our things again to drain.
Franz Josef Gletscher: The glacier from to the Austrian Julius Haast who has named him after the king of Austria-Hungary, Franz Josef was discovered. Franz Josef Gletscher has, as well as the fox terrier situated in the neighbouring valley glacier to offer some specific features which distinguishes him from his colleagues in Europe. Here differently than with us the glacier ends almost on sea level (maybe 200 m over the sea) and, besides, is surrounded richly by tempered rainforest!!!! Besides Franz Josef Gletscher is at the moment also in grow namely about 1/2 m per day! In some Steilstellen the masses of ice roll even at the breathtaking speed of 4 m - 10 m per day downhill! Like we know already here it rains on the west coast a lot (in the glacier 66%) and in the upper share of the glacier it is snowing yearly about 45000 mm (45 m or what is so much as for example 15000 mm of rain!), about 3x so much like in the rainiest corner of England.
Together with Andreas it went on 3/4 day trips on the glacier. From the tour supplier (we had to explore no equipment with ourselves around the glacier on own initiative) we were equipped with a rain jacket, climbing iron, cap and gloves and afterwards were driven by a coach up to the glacier parking bay. We reached postproperty of one hour of walk the massive and impressive glacier front. Now the climbing irons were invested before it went, from the guides in the ice struck step layouts in the glacier. Our guide led to us the next 4 hours then by the amusing world from ice which we had not seen thus yet. Our route led about narrow burrs, bridges, and valleys from ice, past gigantic ice pileworks and caves, small lakes and brooks. Although it already after one hour in the ice raining started, nevertheless, we were absolutely fascinated by the unique blue tones of the ice. Nevertheless, more quietly the rain became more and more violent, so that I problems had to take photos and it, moreover, sensitively dank and became windy. Because the guides had forgotten to give us in the morning rain trousers and we cooled down bit by bit stronger and stronger were not to be had booked gladly, nevertheless, the day trip.
Blue ice: the blue one is absolutely amusing!!!
Guides in Franz Josef Gletscher: Around the tourist have to make the glacier so accessibly as possible the guides a right track with whole stair layouts and bridges (from managers) in the ice hit. A not quite safe work with the speed with itself the glacier downhill moves and face of the fact that the guides are not protected (the customers, by the way, also not). After the strong rainfall of the day before many stair layouts were washed out almost completely and some passages were impassable in the glacier, so that we passed everywhere Jungs, besides, were to be repaired the ice path again. Our guide apparently had to show to more fun in the Stufenschlagen than us the glacier and thus we had to stop every few metres there he wanted to improve an already available step something else. Quite irritatingly in particular as the rain started. Up to some absolutely necessary security tips we received from our guide no further information to the glacier although it absolutely a lot would have given to explain. The guides meanwhile it are supposed, nevertheless, about 500 visitors on the ice controlled are quite scalded in the high season daily.
Glow Worms: In New Zealand there is a special kind of glow worms. In contrast to our glowworms they do not fly by the night separate sit, e.g., in a small rock surplus. like spiders they can let viscous threads to producing them hang down from the deck. Now at night the glow worm squats behind his threads and catches in bluish to shine to attract insects. If these are then in the viscous threads got stuck they are eaten by the glow worm. With Franz Josef we have made a small night excursion to hunt out some glow worms what we also managed.
Haast pass: Although the highest mountains of New Zealand are more than 3000 m high the pass crossings are not so dramatic completely. Our first bigger pass was named of the Haast pass (after the discoverer of Franz Josef Gletschers) with just 565 m. Though this does not sound a lot in contrast to the passs we in Northern India have defeated, however, New Zealand Lkws have substantially strength and thus the passs are also steep substantially.
138. Weekly report 16.01. - 22.01.2006 

Route: Haast pass, Wanaka, Queenstown
The suns halo: We have never seen such a strong halo around the sun which is reflected even in a lake. Whether hangs this maybe not far together with the ozone hole which lies over Antarctic so from here?
3 valleys tour: After we have crossed the Haast pass successfully I have discovered that Makarora, the next small place, is a starting point for the 4-day Gillespie pass trek. The next morning I have reported Nadine about the travelling possibility and after we just still had enough stocks of food with ourselves and our bicycles in the centre DOC (DOC have meant: Department of Conservation and is virtually a national park and nature conservation authority in New Zealand who also looks after all footpaths and huts) were unterput, it went left on foot around noon. The Gillespie pass connects Young Tal with the Siberia valley and the Wilkin valley and lies on about 1500 m.above sealavel. The day are for quick travellers with mostly 6 - 8 hours stated hihing time and because the New Zealand huts are all self-supporting huts, one must carry his whole food with himself. Looking back a very nice tour!
River crossing: Nevertheless, the tour has a small hook, because to come to the tour, or from the tour again out one must cross in each case the Makarora river. Nearly all tourists are stopped from the challenge and sign on a jet boat that transfers them dry, but, after our tours with John and Ann, wet feet and river crossings are for us in the meanwhilea a standard programme. Now, nevertheless, o.k. this was applied a little thickly, because the Makarora was a really big river with strong current. Up to the hip we stood in the ice-cold water and would be the current have been stronger we would have had serious problems. However, thus we have come easily on the other side.
Rainbows: Actually, we should have been recompensed for the steep increase of the Gillespie pass with an impressive view, but, the weather wanted it differently and thus we were glad with drizzle, strong winds and thick clouds that it came not even more badly. On the descent then, nevertheless, the big recompensation. Every now and then the clouds burst and thus we might admire more than one hour permanently other rainbows!
Siberia for normal tourists: In the middle of the Siberia valley lies the Siberia hut. Ordinarily costs a hut overnight stay 10, - $NZ, nevertheless, thanks to our hut passs we got for 90, - $NZ, here we can spend the night free of charge. Nevertheless, here the main attraction is the "Siberia Experience". For floppy 240.-$NZ (about 140€) one can let fly him in by a small airplane to the Siberia hut. Now one must walk during 2-3 hours downstream to the Wilkin river. Then in the Wilkin a jet boat expects one that brings one through a rapid journey back to the starting point. The whole tour would cost less than half if one only by the jet boat booted up the Wilkin, and after a small hike of the Siberia hut will be able to be to flown out, however, this says of course nobody.
Kerin Forks hut: Our last overnight stay on the Gillies pass trek should be the Kerin Forks hut. The hut lies in only about 1.5 trekking hours from the Siberia hut, so, actually, a comfortable day. Nevertheless, a small hook had the sdaye, because to come to the hut one must cross first the Wilkin river. After strong rainfall at night water and in the normal ford led of the Wilkin substantially one would have stood about the breast in the water. Beside the high water level current of the Wilkin was strong and so crossing was impossible at this point. Something above formed of the Wilkin, nevertheless, some arms and thus we tried together with John a Canadian, to cross there the river. First everything looked very promising and the first 3 arms we were able easily by or cross (on trunk), however, the last arm was impassable again. After we too stopped the attempt after about 2 hours and went back to the real transitional place. Fortunately, the water level had sunk meanwhile so strongly that one could see the stones on the ground here now again, and, finally, thus we managed easily the river crossing. The Kerin Forks hut was only a half as big with 10 beds than the Siberia hut and was very comfortable. Also the 76 year-old hut warden was absolutely first-class and looked older no day than 60. Anyhow he had roasted to himself and his friends too many steaks to the dinner and thus he offered them to us. We as a vegetarian refused them with thanks and thus John could be pleased with 3 tasty steaks.
Lake Hawea: Impressive Überbleibsel of a former glacier is the gigantic mountain lake "Lake Wanaka" with his impressive mountain scenery. Directly beside the Wanaka lake there lies of the Hawea the lake which is even more impressive.
Bra - fence: Between Wanaka and Queenstown there is in the middle of the scenery a pasture fence on which almost all female tourists her bra or briefs hang. With our narrow budget we could decorate of course the fence not with our underwear, however, for Nadine came up thus the possibility after a few new clothing pieces to keep a lookout. Although the choice was gigantic, nevertheless, Nadine has found nothing the fitting.
Queenstown: Queenstown is the modern Outdoorzentrum of New Zealand if not even of the world, are, nevertheless, the Bungie Jumping and the jet boat go by narrow river gulches here resulted. The tourist boom occurs here annually has arranged the resourceful kiwis of course to develop more and more mad ideas and here thus one is able meanwhile on a Bodyboard (small surfboard) mighty white-water rivers hinunterrauschen (to WW IV) or itself a Giant swing (a 109-m-high gigantic swing in it the first 90 m nearly in the free fall to surface of the earth is a matter to grant before one then ausschwingt). Also otherwise Queenstown the purest fairground and there we is neither nice nor it are rich we remained only so long to us had made purchases and had checked our emails.
139. Weekly report 23.01. - 29.01.2006 

Route: Glenorchy, Caples Treck, Milford Sound, Routeburn Treck, Rees Dart Treck, Glenorchy
Travelling weeks with 2 day backpacks: From Queenstown we went directly along a gigantic mountain lake to Glenorchy (with 925 metres ascents on 45 km anything but level). Glenorchy is the starting point for a 9-day trekking tour for us. First it should go during 2 days on the Caples trek. In the 3rd day we want to run from the Caples trek down to the Divide on Milford street around the last kilometres from there (presumably about 40 km) to hitchhike to the famous Milford Sound. The next morning we hitchhiked back to the Divide and went into the Routeburn during 3 days one of "Great Walks". Then from the Routeburn trek we want directly further go in the Rees Dart trek (incl. rivercrossing of the Dart) with 4 days the conclusion of our round tour should form. Because there are on the way no purchasing possibilities and we must camp on the Routeburn trek, one says in addition to our things still the whole camping equipment and cooking equipment as well as all food in our both small backpacks (30 l of volume) to pack. To believe hardly, however, we have created it what introduces admiring views in us on every hut once more (most have full 60 l of backpack for 3-4 days). May be that our backpacks were rather small, they were not, however, light!!!
Boardwalk: To protect especially sensitive areas in the mountains against the trekkers there are in New Zealand over and over again so-called Boardwalks. Also of the Caples trek was provided with a some hundred metre-long Boardwalk. There should be, by the way, some trekking tours where it goes for days nearly exclusively about Boardwalks.
Milford sound: Milford sound is one of the most famous places of interest of New Zealand and everywhere it is highly recommended; so the disappointment is virtually already preprogrammed! Of Milford sound a gigantic fjord is in the really high mountain which fall directly into the sea . Virtually whenever high mountains fall directly into the sea are meant this of course also that the arriving clouds cannot here simply thus continue and must first of all rain of the water. No miracle if of Milford sound counts to the rainier areas in rainy New Zealand! Though we were not disappointed by Milford Sound, however, it was cloudy with partial some drizzle, and thus the mountain points everybody were covered in clouds. Nevertheless, in nice weather (which there should also be here) Milford sound is more great! Except a big boat terminal in one can book one of the countless boat tours and a lodge there is in Milford Sound, actually, nothing and thus we decided instead of to spend the night here to go rather, nevertheless, directly again to the mountains. We position ourselves again to the street and after not even 5 minutes the Australian couple goes past again which has taken us already with to Milford Sound, and picks up and once more. Then from the Devide we had to run only 1 1/4 hrs uphill, before we could creep away in our tent.
Keas: Keas are the only alp parrots of the world and live exclusively in the mountain world on New Zealands south island. Although they from the distance work very insignificantly they have very nice in plumage fluorescent red and green. Keas are shy by no means and, moreover, interested in all curiosities which they examine then also straight away with her sharp beak, or better said destroy it! Because of her habit nearly to destroy everything with their beaks Keas are called also "ill-behaved" by the New Zealander. Special specialities on the destruction list of the Keas are: Autowindshield wiper, window and door rubber in cars, backpacks, bicycle seats and all other things what either looks interesting oris unattended. On the way back from Milford Sound we briefly had to wait around by Homer Tunnel (one-way traffic) when a Kea came flying along. Though only he found another car more interesting, nevertheless, with a few amusing noises we woke his attention and already he came along. Only he still sat (we exactly observant and on any delicacy hoping) beside the car, however, as it nothing gave he has flown without further ado on the side mirror to be able to observe the passengers of the car more exactly.
Routeburn trek: He offers no miracle that the Routeburn trek belongs to the Great Walks, nevertheless, waterfalls, mountain lakes, alpines landscape and on nice days some marvellous views of the south alps and even up to the sea. How one can recognise easily we had lovely weather!!!!!!!!
Great Walk: The DOC has called his most popular travelling tours "Great Walks", and without further ado has quadrupled the hut prices and forbade to tents equally completely or limited on certain places. Thus it comes that one must book the Great walk tours before (in particular Milford sound walk already months before) around travellers together other with whole hosts through the mountains to make a pilgrimage. In the evening then everybody meets on the always fully booked-up huts with their 50 beds. The Great Walks are seen by many very critical, there here in comparison to the other tours in New Zealand the hut standard and the upgrade of the paths to an extremely high level have reached only to attract.even more tourists However, for all comfort (gas and toilets with flush) one must also accept that before the huts beside the usually usual flowers a few gas cylinders and coal bags lie.
Edelweiss: In the New Zealand alps there are massively edelweisses.
A quiet little place and a river crossing: The most difficult part of our trekking tour was the crossing from the Routeburn trek into the Rees Dart trek. For just 42€ we could simply have signed on to us a Shuttelservice for the 30-km-long distance, however, neither our travel cash nor our travel style were compatible with it. Instead, we decided to go from the Routburn trek directly into the Dart trek. Even with optimum course (we create the quick stated times) and a trouble-free river crossing a day long 11 hours approached us. The first 5 hours up to the Rockburn hut were absolutely easy and we arrive here still ahead of our schedule. At this remote place we dedn´t expect to see anybodx, but as the hut is situated in the Dart, we hit on a guided Raftingtour with about 30 participants and 15 boats! So no idyllic rest. However, we properly had luck, because the team had finished just the lunch break and thus we got offered from the guides the left-over fancy cake . We could supply about 10 little pieces of fancy cakes thus to our scarcely calculated sweets (almost like Christmas). Finally, after a next hour which we have fought this time without marked way upstream through the bushes we reach the place to cross the Dart river recommended by the jet boat drivers (all employees DOC has refused to give us information over crossing places, because they meant the river would be too dangerous!) . The Dart formed here, nevertheless, several side arms and the first arms were absolutely trouble-free. Merely the last side arm was a little deeper (the water passed us again up to the hip) and also the current was rather strong (possibly football tallness stones started to roll away if we hit them), but meanwhile we had some experience in crossing of rivers, so that also this time everything ran easily. Now we had to follow only during 3.5 hours a well used path, until we arrived after 10.5-hour, finally, completely exhausted shortly after sunset on the Daleys Flat hut. From the supernice hut warden we have received there even immediately a pot of tea.
Rees Dart trek: The Rees Dart trek is a 4-day trekking tour along the rivers Rees and Dart with a small pass crossing. The river valleys are wonderful and one can see almost constant ones the mountaintops with glaciers. Above all from the Rees pass one has a miraculous view at the Dart glacier. Also the huts are from the finest and in particular the Dart hut is still brandnew. Because we have come from the Routeburn we had to run the trek clockwise and therefore against the normal stream of hikers. Ordinarily further badly, however, the end of the trek still does lies 23 km from Glenorcy. However, from the last hut up to the parking bay in the Muddy Creek (in which also the shuttle coach holds) these are still scanty 6-hour term, and thus we want to walked in our last but one day still to shortly before the Muddy Creek to get the only coach of the day the next morning about 10:00 o'clock. Then, however, at last it came differently and thus we have walked on the same day still directly up to the Muddy Creek (this time we have met 9.5-hrs pure term), nevertheless, on the way another 2 Norwegians to us have offered us a lift in their car to Glenorchy. Thus we arrived instead of after planned 9-10 days (the 10th day was the reserve day) already after 8 wonderful sunny days (exception few cloudy hours in Milford Sound) again in Glenorchy. We have spent the night then on the camping site, nevertheless, the idea of a warm shower was too tempting.
Weather forecast and Sandflies warning: Here nearly all huts have the status "Serviced hut" what means that they are looked after during the summer months by a hut warden who makes the necessary repair work on the ways. In addition, collecting the hut tickets or the control of the hut passs . Another service by the hut landlord is the daily updated weather forecast, as well as the warning before special dangers, e.g. from Keas or here from the dreaded Sandflies! (P.S.: Sandflies transfer no illnesses. This was meant here only as a joke)

140. Weekly report: 30.01. - 05.02.2006

Route: Glenorchy, Queenstown, Alexandra, Middlemarch, Dunedin, Oamaru

Bungee Jumping: Exactly at this point, in the Karwarau bridge with Queenstown, the Bungee Jumping was invented in the end of the 80s. Meanwhile the old wooden bridge has become Mecca of the Addrenalinsüchtigen with a specially established futuristic information centre.
Bodyboarden in the river: To whom kayak go is too complicated and the Raften in a big rubber dinghy not enough is individualistic, that simply catches to himself a Bodyboard (actually, the simple version of a surfboard (surf in terms of surfing)). A few creative Outdoorfreaks have made a few years ago exactly this in Queenstown and have rushed thus in a white-water river. We were properly inspired by the idea (have taken part from lack of time, however, in no tour). So a Bodyboard seems to function easily in really well-arranged torrent (WW IV) (even with beginners) and offers thus an interesting alternative to the kayak except of course if too many rocks are in the river.
Odayo Rail Trail: From Clyde via Alexandra and Ranfurly to Middlemarch leads the so-called Odayo Rail Trail about 225 km by the highland of Centrally Odayo. Till 1990 the distance was still driven on by a railway regularly, through more and more efficient streets the railway line became increasingly more unprofitable, so that it was diminished, finally. The area was taken over from the DOC and was altered for 850000$NZ (about 500000€) to a wheel and footpath. Apparently no cyclists were nevertheless involved in the rebuilding work, those the layer very coarse grit and is often to be driven on very hard. Is regional Centrally Odayo with his widen to scanty plateaus and narrow gulches very nicely.
Middlemarch: Actually, the small place Middlemarch is worth by no means something special and no mention, he would not form the terminator point of the Odayo Rail Trail. The fact is interesting also that Middlemarch officially belongs to the city of Dunedin. A short view at the map lets us stop short, nevertheless, these are still 80 km to Dunedin (100000 inhabitants and it still over some mountains and valleys, with more than only to one par sheep, goes. Although Middlemarch officially to Dunedin heard there rules up here absolute women's shordaye (apparently, nevertheless, not enough urban). To lure a few pleasing on her farms the farmers of Middlemarch a few years ago have brought to life "Singledance Middlemarch". I.e. the boys of the Schaffarmen come along smartly around with the girl from Dunedin which become specially by rail here rebooted to make impression on the big dance incredibly. As to us is reported the event taking place all 2 years seems to be really successful and even a German television broadcasting station has turned the last year (in 2005) a nice film about it.
The steepest street in the world (Dunedin): According to Guinessbuch of the records Baldwin Street is the most steep street of the world in Dunedin. On 161 m 47.22 m must be scaled what corresponds to an average gradient of 1:3,41 (about 30%). The gradient at the most steep place (shortly before the end of the increase if all strength is already verpulvert) amounts to the gradient 1:2,86 (35%). Although I am incredibly out of breath as me on top it arrives, the main problem was not the being absent strength, but the fact that the street is so steep that the front wheel wants to take off permanently from the ground. A few drivers have tried to start, by the way, in vain in the middle of the mountain. After Nadine talks below to somebody, I have to go when I have defeated the street, again down run around the photo to get. Again on top I ask a few Japanese a few photos before myself to make (Japanese have in take a photo as is known of a lot of experience). Now I also have to start the problem in the middle of the mountain. Nevertheless, at last in contrast to the drivers I succeed, although it looks quite ramshackle on the photo.
Moeraki Bolders: In the middle by the sea, about 80 km to the north of Dunedin with Moeraki, some Steinboulder lie directly on the beach. The gigantic stone balls have a diameter of about 1 m. Nevertheless, they have originated not while they were washed by the sea around, but the Boulder were already as well as they are dug in the Steilwand situated on the beach and were merely rinsed by the sea. In total 20 lie absolutely - 30 Boulder here on the beach.
141. Weekly report: 06.02. - 12.02.2006 

Route: Oamaru, Twitzel, Lake Pukaki, Lake Tekapo, Geraldine, Christchurch 
Waitangi day: Differently than in Australia which was explained by the Englishmen simply as an unsettled country and was annexed the sales representatives of the British crown with some Maori to headmen have negotiated a contract, the Treaty of Waitangi. In principle were fixed in the 2/6/1840 in the contract that the Maori owners of her country are which takes over British crown, nevertheless, the government dealings and the Maori citizens would have the same rights like the Britons. However, the contract was translated not 1:1 into the language the Maori, but was changed at some places (or reverse, the English text was changed), so that there are 2 partly rather different contracts. In memory of the contract signing with that the Maori by the Englishmen a little bit were cheated, the 6th of February was explained to the national holiday. We have already been surprised in Oamaru that nearly all shops are concluded, nevertheless, we knew nothing about the holiday, however, we have met most inhabitants then still on before the gates of the town situated horse racecourse. As well as already the Australians love so also the New Zealanders horse running, an always welcome opportunity for a sociable afternoon.
Maori rock paintings: Just as the Aboriginals have also made some Maori rock paintings, however, in contrast to her Australian colleagues they have begun with it not already before several millenniums, but only some decades ago (maybe after an Australia vacation). We could not find a right interpretation of the symbols.
Mackenzie Country: From the coast it goes again in the inland on the gigantic Mackenzie plateau, after the cattle thief James McKenzie (more funnily wise ones are written both names differently) is named. James McKenzie has stolen in 1843 from one of the richest cattle owners of the area 1000 sheep and has fled with it before his pursuers in the plateau unknown still at that time. Then, however, at last he was caught and condemned to 5 years of heavy hard labour, while other cattle breeders have started to settle the plateaus.
Lake Pukaki und Tekapo: As witnesses formerly gigantic glacier both lakes Lake Pukaki and Lake Tekapo lie in the Mackenzie country. The absolutely amusing turquoise paint of the lakes (on the photo, unfortunately, properly to does not recognise), comes from the sediment depositions by the reason of the lakes by the glaciers have originated (the rocks under the glaciers were crushed to them to rock dust (sediment)). The lakes also furthermore are fed by glacier water and by the sediment particles in the water the lakes have her unreal milky one look.
Mt. Cook ones: Mt. Cook ones the highest mountain is with his 3755 m in New Zealand. Because the mountain named after the English captain James Cook only 44 km of the sea remotely lies the harsh weather conditions which have cost her life already to many mountaineers rule here.
Sheepherd: New Zealand is, as everybody knows, the country of the sheep and around many sheep of a gigantic pasture on another pasture important assistants are often to be brought dog. To bring his cookers over the street on another pasture this shepherd set out together to his 5 dogs. Everybody remained only well with him and on a command the dog appealed in each case has opened fire like an oiled flash to lure the sheep into the right direction, while remaining remained with her master. Was to be seen very impressively the dogs at her work.
Irrigation plant: In the Mackenzie plateau it is very dry and thus the farmers water her Ländereien artificially. Of course one needs for this a little bigger "lawn sprinklers". This irrigation plant is more than 1 km long and rolls while watering straight across the field.
Children-change station: In New Zealand there are the very practical furnishings, the so-called children-change station. If one is not with his child contently one simply goes to one of the stations mostly situated with public toilets. Now one opens the flap of the children to rope's station, his child puts and concludes the flap. Now the child is traded and if one the flap opens once more one receives new (hopefully better) child. Or does mean "Children Change of station" at the end, nevertheless, just "compress table"?
Looking for a in Christchurch: From the plateaus in Canterbury it further goes to Christchurch, with 330000 inhabitants the third-biggest town of New Zealand. We have to work before from the middle of February in Motueka and to save the expenses for an accomodation we have to get the idea a car (estate car or dormobile) in which we can sleep then. Three strenuous days we spend with the search for a suitable favorable car, however, thus properly we do not make a find. Either the owners are not accessible, or they have fanciful Preisvorstellugen. Most baking packers want to have paid because the money them for her car and have invested everything what they in the car again got back, what is of course with cars beyond 200000 km of border rather unrealistically (not to say unserious). At last we surrender after 3 days, nevertheless, we also are, finally, a bicycle traveller. Moreover, we would have been demanded too much with the bewildering road signs anyhow by a car.
Warm Shower List: The Warmly Shower list is an aggregation of riding a bike all over the world, other riding a bike offer with them to spend the night at home free of charge. In total there are several thousand cyclists the member here are, and since September, 2005 we also belong to it. In Christchurch then our first attempt with another member of the "Warmly Shower" to record cunning" contact and thus we land with Jessi and Anni. The both live in a small house 3 Km on the city centre in Christchurch remotely and we come camp in her garden and relax with a hot shower.
142. Weekly report: 13.02. - 19.02.2006 

Route: Christchurch, Motueka
Burning coach: The beginning of the Apfelpflücksaison always gets closer and because it are to be cycled back to Motueka (Nelson) still more than 500 km, unfortunately, we must take the coach. During the coach journey our bicycles were mounted together with 2 other bikes on a bicycle carrier on the follower coupling sits (clever idea and here very much widespread). After just 3-hour coach journey will become from a car outdated and the driver signals us that something is not behind in the coach in order. A funny smell has struck me already before, however because the coach the very latest model is not intended, besides, I have to me nothing else. We urge in a small bay to find out that a bicycle tyre burns! The first bicycle on the carrier was too near in the exhaust and this has blown the hot exhaust gases directly on the front wheel. It was only one matter of time to this has started to burn. The fire is fast extinguished, the remains of the tyre become anyhow by the bicycle knots and further goes the trip. Luckily for us it is none of our bicycles. Nadines front wheel is quite black from the exhaust exhaust gases and a little bit warm, and thus I develop it for safety's sake in the next break fast. We want to go on just after an other short rest again, than to us One waving hinterherrennt. Now my wheel was to be said goodbye just, besides, to the carrier. This time the securing clip had broken from the bicycle carrier for my wheel, so that my wheel would have liked almost from the carrier. I would not like to remember at all like my bicycle would have looked if it to 100 km/h on open distance would have fallen down; if we had found again it than ever. The coach driver has obviously despaired and thus my wheel is packed simply fast into the loading bay. Finally, after 8.5-hrs coach journey we reach Richmond. Here we leave to the coach and the last 40 km cycle to Motueka.
Postman or coach driver: Although New Zealand is not so big at all, the distances are for many farmers up to the next bigger town (everything from 2000 inhabitants is often very big a bigger town with ordinarily reasonable purchasing possibilities). Thus it comes that the coach drivers deliver post or goods for many farmers situated in the big through roads. We urge on our coach journey at least 10 times to hand over either post, or to deliver milk and spare parts for the tractor. Here in New Zealand a self-evident fact to introduce, however, hardly in Germany.
F.R.JAMES AND SONS: Two days before beginning of the Apfelpflücksaison we arrive on the apple plantation of F.R.JAMES AND SONS. The apple plantation lies 8 km to the north of Motueka in a nice valley. The last both days before it is a matter picking in we need to prepare at home in the accomodation, to shop food for the next week and to organise a work permit for Martin. Here probably till the beginning of May we will remain on the apple plantation to increase our travel cash desk.

143. - 145. Weekly reports 20.02. - 12.03.2006

Route: Motueka

Apple picking: Our job as an Apfelplücker is fast described: armed with a big manager and a big belly pocket it goes in one of many rows with apple trees. However, differently than with us in a nice orchard the trees do not stand nicely multi-coloredly on a meadow distributed everybody separates nicely well in lining up and limb (how the shoots in a vineyard). Now we must fill our belly pocket with apples and empty this then in big boxes which stand in the walk between the apple trees. The boxes have the layout of an Europlalette, are 3/4 m high about one and weigh fullly with apples 500 kg. The hook with the apple picking is that one cannot tear anyhow the apples simply fastest possibly from the tree and throw in his belly pocket, because they are received, otherwise, pressure points and are unmarketable. I.e.i we must lay the apples with a rolling movement plücken and afterwards carefully in our pockets, before we empty them softly in the big box. A time-consuming trial and thus we need 1 - to fill 1.5 hours around a box. Per box we get 27.5$NZ paid-up from what after deduction of the tax (20%) another 22 are left $NZ. In total we come so then on the unbelievable hourly wage of 7$NZ - 11$NZ (4.00 EUR - 6.30 EUR). Laboriously the squirrel lives, however, after 11 hours of work (8 - 10 boxes fullly and 5 to. to gefpflückten apples) gathers nevertheless mostly rather considerable amount (in particular in consideration of our dayesbugets of 5 EUR per person)
Tailor gold: Here on the plantation special pear places with the name "Tailor of gold" were invented some years ago. The pears are gigantic, have golden, rough bowls and are sold for the unbelievable price of 25 EUR for 20 big unscratched pears in the USA. The bowls are extremely sensitive to scratches and to avoid this the pears must be picked in such a way that the handles break here in them in the tree have grown. After 1.5 Pflückdayen then the shocking news: Almost all Pflücker have broken off too many handles so that partially are unmarketable up to 75% of the pears! We had the luck that Wendy Tailor, she has crossed the kind and is responsible here for quality management, us has shown how easily itself the pears scratch mutually so that we very much on the styles have paid attention. Together with a Canadian couple are thus the only ones who are allowed to do furthermore pears picking! Nevertheless, a very happy fact, pears with 20$NZ (before tax) and half as big boxes (are paid like the apple boxes) much better than apples. We receive own tractor with follower on jeweis 4 empty boxes stand and must go from our boxes now even by the area (up to now Fred of the tractor drivers has made). Nevertheless, unfortunately, there are only some rows of pears and after 2.5 days everything is picked.
Again pears: We have already been surprised all the time, why between the Tailor gold pears still other pear trees do not stand they should be picked. In thoughts we have already regretted the poor Pflücker they must pick these pears, the trees stood distributed, nevertheless, everywhere. Of course it has got with this job also us, however, now had to pick like again in the big apple boxes. Now the whole went better than expected and after a day all pears were picked.

146. Weekly report 13.03. - 19.03.2006  

Route: Motueka, Abel Tasman Nationalpark

Abel Tasman: Just 20 km to the north of Motueka lies a national park namedafter the seafarer and discoverer Abel Tasman. The national park directly situated by the sea accommodates one of the nicest trekking routes in New Zealand: Abel Tasman Coastal Trek who leads by primeval forest and about beaches. An alternative to the congested trekking route is a sea kayak tour along the coastal line. We decide to do a 2-day kayak tour into the middle of the national park. Afterwards we went on foot further to c the north of the national park and then back over the Inlandtrek to the starting point. One can rent fully equipped sea kayaks in Kaiteriteri and in Marahau easily and there one receives aslo a half-day training.
Mad Mile: We head for an island which lies directly before the coast instead of paddling with all other further along the coast. Adele island is a protected birds area and predominantly is inhabited from Shags. We want to paddle around the island but on the outside fresh winds blow us already in the middle in the face. The sea gets rougher and so we have the first smaller waves. When we will paddle then on the eastern side of the coast to the north from the fresh breeze changes into a stiff breeze. We have to fight against the wind and with waves of more than 1 metre (another boat has chosen this route and if we in a trough of the sea are we cannot see the other canoeist any more) is anything but dull to us. Several times waves go over the boat, but the sea kayak lies very good in the water. Also when we arrived at the north end of the island, again in the direction of mainland paddle now the wind and the waves come from the side and afre no bigger problems.. Then after just 1.5 hours we are exhausted but again on the coast. Now it should nevertheless go into the "Mad Mile". The Mad Mile a just a 2 km long coastal segment and is famous for taut headwind and waves. We put to ourselves again wind and waves, however, in the Mad Mile it is luckily a little bit quiet as with the island. Now, however, becomes apparent that we have already paddled round the island and we must fight quite a bite to paddle against the wind (as a cyclist our upper arms are undetrained a little bit). After another hour in the headwind and nice waves we reach exhausted and contently in the late afternoon the big Anchorage bay. As already on the route Burn Trek one must also camp here in e thovernight stay place (we again booked before). From the desired idyllic night a la Robinson Cruso on a lonesome beach, however, no track. Together with about 100 other canoeists and trekkers, under it is also a school class, we share the camp site. The traffic jam fields we were not announced, by the way, completely so waterproof and thus our tent swam in the water.
Where are the spoons? I have asked Nadine as our dinner was ready, about our cuttlery, but even after repeated searching of the whole equipment our spoons and forks remained missing. Necessity is the mother of invention and as the noodles are already ready we take two tent herrings and eat with it like with rod our spaghetti. Well, with spaghetti the trick with the herrings still works, however how should we eat tomorrow morning our muesli? Actually, I move around get a better idea: Mussels. Almost I already surrender, because have broken all mussel or they are just too small when I find two nice bowls of an oyster at the very back end of the beach. Most other park visitors presumably hold us for a little bit cracked aswe are using during the next days our shells to eat our muesli and noodles, but, we are happy that we don´t have to eat with the fingers.
Seals: In our second paddle day first we paddle to visit a sea lion colony on a small rocky island 1 km offshore. At the back of the rock we hit in a sort of seal kindergarten. About 15 young seals, they areonly a few months old, splash here pleasedly in the water, while some older seal doze bored on the rock in the sun. The young seal are shy by no means and dribble round us and under our boat. We were already impressed by the sea lions on the beach of Känguruh Iceland in Australia but here in the water it is something else. The seals are in the water fully in their element and the acrobatic clowns of the seas are show every child, but it is really quite an experience to see them in the wild. A young seal allowed itself a small joke with us, rushes directly to us, jumps out of the water, and las lands half a metre before our kayak with a loud splashing again in the sea. For half an hour we observe the activity, but meanwhile other canoeists have also discovered the playing seals and in the midst of the other boats we do not feel so fine and keep on paddling
Split Apple rock: A gigantically split rock lump in the middle of the sea.
Even more seals: The real seal colony lives a few kilometres to the north of the rock on Tonga, and also here we hit we in seal kindergarden. Nevertheless, here the seal children play in a protected lagoon and there one to is not allowed to come closer than 20 m to a sea lion on rock.
Nice lagoons: We follow the coastal line and because we can have high water we explore one nice lagoon after the other. In many lagoons there are also small idyllic camping sites, however, to get hold of them one must book them already for a while in advance. Finally, after a total of two wonderful and exciting paddle days we exchange on the beach in the Onetahuti bay our sea kayak again for our treeking boots.
Coastal Trek: While the first half of the Coastal Treks is surely overrun, then it is a little bit quieter in the north. As with all Great Walks the footpath is also developed here extremely well and anything but demanding, however, along the walking of beaches along the coast has its charm. The walking in the deep sand with a heavy backpack on the back is extremely strenuous and after every beach segment we must empty about a kilo sand from our shoes (no idea how this must have been for the Foreign Legionnaires in the Sahara). Nadines initial scepticism compared with an overcrowded Great Walk has vanished completely.
Lovely bays:
Tidal Crossing: Two places on the Coastal Trek can be crossed only with low tide and one stands still in the middle of the water. In particular the crossing in the Awora bay with his gigantic sandy beches at low tide is wonderful. We meet a few locals who have collected just oysters and learned from them a small abbreviation, instead of by the wood, directly along the beach leads to our next camping site. Just still on time before the flood we reach our small comfortable overnight campsite.
Traveller's dream: Who has dreamt after a hard long travelling tour not already from to a jump in chill Wet! Here on Abel Tasman Coastal Trek it is the well-earned pleassure which expects us every evening.
Inlandtrek: From the north point of the national park the 3-day inland Trek leads back to Marahau. Differently than the coastal way nearly no travellers are to be found here, completely in contrast to the Fantails. Fantails are small little birds with a fan-like tail. Almost permanently we have one of the trusting journeymen around ourselves and some also follow us flying from branch to branch. Their curiosity is bigger than her fear and thus they are often less than 1 metre from us. The inland Trek is real nothing else as a connecting way, and in particular the second day we spend exclusively in the bush. The huts lie here on more than 700 m over the sea and here as it is just autumn it gets in the evening it already cold, so that Martin must make fire wood to heat the oven. Merely in the third and last day we are recompensed with some nice views of the coastal line. After 6 days we are again back at our starting point and go as hitchhikers back to our apple plantation.

147 + 148. Weekly report 20.03. - 02.04.2006

Route: Motueka

Still apple picking: Well what I should tell, except that we are still with the apple picking. Occasionally we had to drive sometimes our big boxes with a tractor by the rows. The real tractor driver had left the apple plantation and Derryl found more comfortably to us and another couple to press the tractor the eye. In total I have sat every day about 1 hour in the tractor and whole of course unpaid. We were not contented with the situation and have tried to explain after 10 days of Derryl that it costs us too much Right if I drive the tractor by the area (for the whole season, at least, laxly 500 EUR) and have asked him quite carefully whether he cannot a little bit specially pay (have asked about 16 - EUR per day what would be for him extremely günstiggewesen!). Derryl became irritating immediately and meant, "This will not happen!!!" on which we have further refused with the tractor to go. Derryl had snapped shut and as a result has not talked just one weeks any more with us to us!!!! During the days without tractor Martin then every day has picked nearly one whole box more apples (what has put out then etwa 100 - EUR of Mehrverdienst in one week). With the Apfelplücken we have become quick meanwhile also so quite substantially, we get, nevertheless, meanwhile daily 13 - to pick 14 boxes converted 6.5to - 7to apples (virtually a whole small vice fully). So now you have divided all my tractor frustration, however, there is just away not only to report the nice!
Time not in the tent: In the beginning we had considered to purchase to ourselves for the Apfelpflücksaison a car to sleep in it and when has not clapped we wanted to sleep in the tent. Then, however, anyhow we have decided to spend the night here in an accomodation. For etwa 15 - EUR per person and week we live for some weeks with a couple from Czechoslovakia now in a small wooden house with 2 rooms, a communal kitchen and a bathroom. Meanwhile we are really glad that we must not sleep in a car, in the evening it is getting dark only few minutes after we stop to pick already and to a car then it would have been restrained already a little bit. Also in the meanwhile rather frequent rainy days we are more than only happily with our small house. After a few weeks in a firm accomodation it is hardly to be introduced, by the way, even for us that we have slept the last 2.5 years almost permanently in the tent!
149 + 153. Weekly report 03.04. - 07.05.2006  

Gigantic apple: Every now and then there were gigantic apples. If I saw a so gigantic apple at the supermarket, I would not purchase him absolutely, because I would think that he is genetic-manipulated. However, this apple hung in midst normal apples on a tree, together with the other both (the right one is as big as a normal apple). No notion why the apples so differently are big, but the big one is so big that I cannot enclose him with both hands. Then in the stack house the apples are sorted out of course and all gigantic apples come together to the box of the apples go in the USA.
End of the apple season: After we had already picked Cox orange, royal gala, Grany Smith and Braeburne now only pink ladies had to be picked. Pink ladies are extremely sensitive and receive very easily pressure points by too firm touching with pick, or by too quick unloaded of the pocket in the box. Accordingly not all Apfelpflücker might go on working (many have picked too rough), however, we belonged to the happy four them might go on working. We managed with the picking rather well. The apples were a little presumably more robust this year, because we had the least pressure points of the last years (presumably because the boss's head, from us always only "Grandpa" or "Oppa" called quite often came to see like we pick). On Tuesday the 5/2/2006 we picked in the flowing out rain then the last apples. Almost we would not have created it, because the ground was so slippery that Derryl with the tractor is lubricated several times. Once Derryl has slided even thus in the fence that he had to become of his brother with another tractor again rausgezogen. Then, however, half an hour before sundown the last apple was picked and the season was finished. The next evening then we went of celebrating with Derryl in his favorite bar around the seasonal conclusion! More interesting points a non-smoker's bar of the local rugby association and hunting association. Here now the conclusion statistics of our Apfelpflücksaison: Picked apples: 248.5 to, pears: 37 to. So much like on 7 fully charged trucks with follower fits. In piece make about 1250000 apples. In total we have earned thus about 7500 EUR, possibly so much like we have been economical in total during the last 3 years!!!!!!!!
Cap worked off: As already on the bunch of grapes farm in New Zealand I have also worked off here again a cap. Anyhow the Cappies are not apparently to work made.
The beard leaves: As are already mentioned the apples with any spray means treats on the reactions allergic I has agreed. My whole forearms were reddened, and had pimples. At night it sometimes itched so strongly that I could hardly sleep and there were most my eyes so reddened that I looked like a zombie. To protect me in the best way possible I have carried permanently a langärmeigen pullover and have opened out the sunscreen flaps of my cap. Further I have grown a beard to protect also my face in the best way possible. After now the Pflücksaison past is Nadine insisted on the fact that I shave off him again.
Shave: Here a few snapshots from shave. Wittily as different beard forms differently leave ausehen. Would please me about a few comments to him passed away to beards in the visitors' book. In particular if somebody does not find the beards completely so bad as Nadine.




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