New Zealand: 05.12. - 07.05.2006
Translated by PROMT-Online-Translator
|Route: Wellington, Upper Hut, Greytown, Martinbourough, Lake
Ferry, Cape Palliser, Greytown, Wellington, Picton, Nelson, Reefton,
Greymouth, Hokitika, Franz Josef, Fox, Haast Paß, Wanaka, Queenstown,
Glenorchy, Caples Treck, Milford Sound, Routeburn Treck, Rees Dart
Treck, Glenorchy, Queenstown, Alexandra, Middlemarch, Dunedin, Oamaru,
Twitzel, Lake Pukaki, Lake Tekapo, Geraldine, Christchurch, Motueka,
Abel Tasman, Motueka
|After 2.5 years we have arrived at the other
side of the wirld in New Zealand!!!!! We have cycled 37,500 km and
paddled 3000 km with our canoe to come here. Now we will remain possibly
till September, 2006 in New Zealand before it further goes to South
America, more exactly for said to Padayonia.
|132. Weekly report 06.12. - 11.12.2005
Route: Wellington, Upper Hut, Greytown
|Immigration: Like Australia New Zealand
also wants to prevent so (of course I think in each case the government
and not the countries) that new plants and illnesses are introduced.
After we have cleaned our whole equipment in Australia for about 4
days, without it was seriously examined, we are content to clean for
New Zealand our bikes only an afternoon to long. When we pick up in
Wellington our pockets of the customs we have in one of our pockets
several yellow seals with the tip that this pocket must be examined
by the quarantine official. Our worry increases when an officer comes
to us and believes that her feel dog has shown active interest in
the pocket. Has somebody packed at the end drugs into our pocket?
We open our pocket the only both food we, besides, points the official
us have (not all food may be introduced), a notice board chocolate
and a packet Kaffe (a present by Jatinder and Angela. The officials
are confused. What has the dog been thundering and lightning then?
Finally, of the riddle solution: The dog is to be to tracked down
on it trained fresh food. Because we, however, in our bicycle pockets
permanently fruit and vegetables advance they smell for the dog of
course extremely of food. After this problem has dissolved in pleasure
only even our bikes, more exactly are examined said the tyres, before
we are dismissed from the quarantine control.
|Wellington: We spend our first day in New
Zealand in Wellington, government seat and second largest town of
the islands. Wellington makes "town of the hoist" all honour
to his nickname and a nearly hurricane-like storm blows us almost
from our wheels. This can still become cheerful. Wellington itself
lies on the edge of a gigantic bay on several hills distributed what
to here live absolutely is very pleasant, however, to a bicycle tourist
the life very difficult makes. Nevertheless, for sightseeing we have
in the first day no time there Martin only still his visa must extend
and we, moreover, only again our stocks of food must invest.
|Therm A Rest and MSR: Our Therm A rest sleeping mats does
not want to puff itself up for some time properly, while with a hassock
the Außematerial of the foam has taken turns. Already in Australia
we wanted to trade with the importer there (Speleen) the mats, nevertheless,
they have lifelong guarantee. To our astonishment it was explained
to us of Speleen that we used our cases too intensely and, hence,
the lifetime would have already expired (after only 2 years). We have
there something else understanding of lifetime and from after-sales
service and turn so over again to the company Ampro, the importer
in New Zealand. After a short view at our mats we get absolutely of
course the defective hassock traded, while they solve the Aufblasproblem
with a new valve immediately (the old valve had stuck in the foam).
When I with them in the warehouses am I see that they also import
MSR, the manufacturer of our petrol cooker. I ask what one can do
if to himself the adjusting screw no more completely concludes and
is asked to bring forward our cooker. Well, the cooker looks wild
just already in a little bit, nevertheless, has pinned in India the
cleaning cable thus and has blocked the cooker that heat up it only
after strong one and primitive power again was to be moved. Afterwards
we had to shorten the quite aufgesplissene cable and anew let solder.
Later in Laos a poetry was leaking, so that all at once the whole
cooker was aflame and some of the plastic shares of the pump are braised
a little bit. As the boys of Ampro the burnt pump see they trade them
for safety reasons immediately. Now they do not try to give us a new
cleaning cable for the generator, nevertheless, as them after 5 minutes
yet have got to thread it in the generator we still get a new generator
missed! What an after-sales service!!! We will think back at the next
comfortable nights on our mats and with the next noodle soup a few
more sometimes thankfully to the boys of Ampro (www.ampro.co.nz).
|Lord of the ring: Like us everybody knows
"man of the rings" trilogy in New Zealand was turned. Many
of the locations are meanwhile popular tourist places, although nearly
all scenery was already diminished again. The park in the background
was used, by the way, for the scene in the gardens by Isengard, in
the Saruman the nice old trees splits leaves around the fires for
his weapon factory to poke.
|Rimutakka Incline: From Wellington
we want to Greytown to Ann and John and must cycle before still about
the Rimutakka of rank (a steep mountain range). Because the
high street is driven on very strongly we cycle about the Rimutakka
Incline, one to a cycle track and footpath developed old railway route.
The bicycle distance is more than only wonderfully and a true joy
|Fell Trains: The eastern side of the Rimutakka
of rank is extremely steep and to be able to scale them by rail
certain Mr. Fell has special, now after him named railroad engines
developed. The rails for the fur railroad engines have an additional
rail provided with gaps in the middle. Now a waagrecht lying gearwheel
reaches crosswise in the gaps of the rail, so that the locomotive
always has optimum Grip and can climb thus 15 m 1 m upwards (normal
trains create a relation of 1:30). To pull the heavy goods trains
over the mountains were at the same time necessary up to 6 locomotive
motives. Even the departure was so violent that a clause of brake
blocks has passed mostly only one departure (about 8 km).
|Private Property: In New Zealand
there is no free Betretungsrecht for the nature and private farm country
may not be entered. After the railway company was stopped after completion
of a big tunnel after the Second World War, a farmer has purchased
a piece of the country and has closed for the public admission, so
that we cannot cycle the last 2 kilometres on the railway route. On
partly very much a narrow and steep path we cycle and push thus
the last kilometres through the undergrowth and past steep slopes.
|Attention! On the last metres of the Rimutakka
Incline Nadine hears all at once the ring minds (lord of the rings
share 1) before himself and decides for safety's sake in the bushes
to go to cover.
|John and Ann: John and Ann are two Mittsechziger
the year letzes we in the Spiti Valley in of the Indian Himalayas
have hit. At that time John and Ann were to be conquered with her
tandem, besides, the mountain world of India and we have found them
at a height of just 4000 m. We wanted to have in the same direction
and thus we a few nice days together spent. At that time at last have
invited to us John and Ann that we should attend them, nevertheless,
in Greytown in New Zealand and now here we are.
|Tramping: Tramping is the New Zealand word
for hiking. John is an eager Tramper and member in two Tramping clubs
and thus it is no miracle that he took us to a tramping tour. Together
with the members of "South Wairarappa Tramping Club" it
goes in the Tararuas, mountain ranges straight through the southern
part of the North Island. No matter whether west wind or east wind,
all clouds rain in the Tararuas and it is mostly wet there. Most participants
are already in the retirement age, however, this is not a comfortable
afternoon walk. The first 1.5 hours it still goes on a footpath uphill
and downhill, however, then it goes into the bush, in the unmarked
area. We follow a mountain stream and, finally, it goes uphill in
a direct line. It is steep, exactly said very steep, however, even
the more than 70-year-old participants master this and the regular
showers with bravado! After a total of 8 hours with a half-hour lunch
break we are safe again back at the starting point.
|WET SOCKS: First we thought, we would cross
only once briefly the river and so we hopped from stone to stone to
get no wet feet. But to all other participants of the travelling tour
the river made no difference, and so they have simply run through
the partial almost knee-high water. After the third river crossing
slowly dawns to us that we cross the mountain stream here not only
briefly, but run in the middle of him uphill; him virtually as a footpath
use there right and left thick brushland is. We venture also the jump
in the cold water, however, thus properly we cannot make friends with
the wet feet. Nevertheless, to the kiwis, as themselves the New Zealanders
name after the so named bird with pleasure themselves, wet feet seem
make no difference. A participant raves on us even as great it is
with wet feet or socks, because one receives so less bubbles and John
has rinsed before beginning of the tour his travelling boots even
|133. Weekly report 12.12. - 18.12.2005
Route: Greytown, Tararua
|Tramping trip in the Tararuas: Together
with John we explore the Tararuas again on a 2-day tour. Of course
there are again river crossings and showers and therefore of course
also nice wet socks, even if we cross the first river still on a long
|Short rain break: Shortly before the mountain
hut where we want to spend the night it stops to rain all at once.
The sun comes out and dips the rain forests in a charming light.
|Slide show in Wellington: Already
in India John has asked me, to prepare a small slide show for the
Tramping club in Wellington. Inspired by the idea I have thus in agonising
night work of several hours to reduce our travel experiences to a
75 minute slide talks (normally the free slide talks taking place
weekly last here only 45 minutes!!!). We make digital pictures and
thus projection was no problem. Nevertheless, unfortunately the demonstration
date lay during the Christmas period and, besides, at the same time
with the premiere of King Kong (for which specially half a city centre
was closed), so that only 40 club members came. Not at all so badly
in consideration of the fact that in all Tramping clubs are organised
in New Zealand a total of only 10016 members (375 in Wellington).
134. Weekly report 19.12. - 25.12.2005
Route: Martinbourough, Lake Ferry, Cape Palliser, Greytown
|The Putangiura Pinnacles (cape Palliser):
John and Ann have invited us to Christmas. Because it, however, still
about one week to and the holidays is they recommend us a 4-day cycling
tour all around the cape Palliser. On the 2nd day we do not come to
the so-called Pinnacles, rock leachings to those of Kapadokien in
Turkey unlikely. With my first approach to find the Pinnacles, I do
not come in the determining putting on one side as signposted after
30 minutes already separate after 12 minutes and simply follows another
path. Permanently holding after the putting on one side look out,
I return after 1.5 hours of undone things again to Nadine, however,
I find with the second expiry then, finally, the nice side valley.
The Pinnacles were used, by the way, in man of the rings as a location
for "Dimholt Road".
|Old people's home for bulldozer:
Ngawi, a small fishing place in the cape Palliser, is the last
working place of many bulldozers which find here a quiet job for her
old days after a hard and long life. Here they are used because to
pull the fishing boats stored on followers in or from the water.
|Sea lions: In the cape Palliser a sea lion's
colony (New Zealand Fur Seal) lives in the middle between the rocks.
Nevertheless, too near one should not come the journeymen, because
in particular the bigger bulls defend her districts absolutely and
her set of teeth 3x is stronger than that of a strong dog. Unfortunately
we have sent in Australia our snorkel cases home here, otherwise,
we could have snorkelled easily with the sea lions.
|Lighthouse in the cape Palliser:
If a painter might select to himself the perfect location for a lighthouse
picture, his choice would presumably fall on in the sturmumstosten
cape Palliser situated lighthouse.
|Bath pools: Falling mountain brook 2 wonderful
pools has formed one by the rocks in the valley a few kilometres after
the cape Palliser. Although the water is quite fresh, nevertheless,
we have a lot of fun with a short bath.
|Who loves his wheel him pushes: We must immediately push
several hundred metres our wheels by the fine grey stone uphill. Even
at cold temperatures a sudorific affair.
|Sheep: Although though the kiwi the heraldic
animal of New Zealand is so does not have to say still long that sheep
are liked less. Nearly everywhere one hits on sheep, nevertheless,
New Zealand is the nation with the biggest Schafpopulation per inhabitant.
Particularly the famous soft merino wool to producing sheep are liked
here very much and are spread.
|Sheep grooming: Also John and
Anne have Saying 'du' sheep who graze peacefully on the meadows round
her house. In particular some older sheep already have a so thick
wool that the excrement gets stuck directly in the fur. Nevertheless,
thanks to the help of a neighbour the thick, stinking Troddeln simply
turn with fleece scissors cut-off.
|Vaccination: After the small fleece the
sheep get one more vaccination against intestinal parasites with a
special syringe given. After successful vaccination every sheep receives
a red mark on the head so that nobody is twice inoculated.
|Christmas service: In the 24th
afternoon it goes with Ann in the child service. Nadine is a guest
of honour and tells the visitors small a little about our German Christmas
traditions with ice and snow of course a little bit are different,
as the New Zealand with 20°C - 30°C. Afterwards all visitors
are split in teams and may paint episodes from the Christmas history
and the part about the long trip of the "manners from the Orient"
closes of course to us.
|Kiwi Christmas fancy cake: Here
the not less tasty New Zealand variation of a Christmas tunnel. In
addition, there are still small "apple strudel tartlets".
|Christmas 2005: We most suppose already
we spend Christmas together with Ann and John which four children
are everybody already from the house and which do not come this year
also for visit (nevertheless, not because of us). We are the spare
children from overseas and are also presented richly. Nadine receives
a few selftinkered travelling floors and me Lonely Planet New Zealand.
|Child home of Jemo: Fahradriksha: Do you
still remember our visit at a child home in Jemo in Inden? At that
time we have collected donation money on our Internet site and have
handed over this then man and Mrs. Roy, heart and soul of the project.
With a share of the money a Fahrradriksha with which a family can
gain from now on her own living was purchased.
|Child home of Jemo: Wells: The
second half of our donation money was invested in a well. Access to
fresh drinking water is absolutely of vital importance and not everywhere
in the world one must open up for it just the tap as we know meanwhile.
135. Weekly report 26.12.2006 - 01.01.2006
Route: Greytown, Tararuas
|"Wet Socks" part 2: Up to now
there were only wet feet with,but uwalk with aon a hike with Ann it
got tougher. First it went again directly in the small river. Then,
however, in a narrow canyon the stream course formed all at once a
small lake and before we realised it we stood already about the bellybutton
in the water!!! Immediately several times we stood in the course of
this tour about the hip in the ice-cold water. I can still remember
well that I have seen some years ago the advertising of a New Zealand
backpack company in which they have touted that her backpacks are
watertight even if one walks through the deep water. At that time
I still imagined "What nonsense! Who walks voluntarily through
the deep water!!!"
|Bee-sting: John has a few bees and when
I was just behind the garage I was suddenly stung by one. I have removed
the sting and, imagined nothing serious. Then, nevertheless, in the
evening my eye had already quite swollen and the next morning it was
complete swollen. We wanted to go on a hiking tour and thus we got
Anti allergy tablets at the chemist's . However, in spite of tablets
it has lasted another 2.5 days, until the swell has gone down.
|Tramping in the Tararuas: In
spite of eye we went with Ann and her daughter Jannet on a trekking
tour of several days into the Tararuas. The destination was, actually,
a crossing of the southern mountain range, however, because of unclear
weather conditions (fog and storm) we have rather refused to go about
the open heights. Because Jannet does not like to stay in a hut we
carry our whole camping equipment (tent, Isomatten, sleeping-bags,
cookers) Although we had this time no river crossing we had a lot
|High-level moor: The only water supply
on the summit plateau of the Cone are a few wonderful water pools.
|Fairy tale wood: The Tararuas are extremelywindy
wind mountains with a lot of rain. Accordingly the trees grow only
to a certain hight (maybe 3-4m). On top they are cut like with scissors
by the strong winds. By the frequent rain these woods form a paradise
for mosses and lichens, the trunks close covered. Our footpath on
the Cone ridge has led us several hours by these wonderful woods.
The woods were so fantastically that they have looked already almost
kitschy, and a we would not have been the slightest surprised if a
small fairy or an elf would suddenly appear behind a bush.
|Sylvester: We have spent the New Year party
again with Ann, while John was on a trekking tour of several days
in the highly alpine area on the south island. As well as already
Christmas do not take so the kiwis also from Sylvester completely
as importantly as we Germans and thus lay we at 23:30 o'clock already
in our beds.
136. Weekly report 02.01. - 08.01.2006
Route: Wellington, Picton, Nelson, Reefton
|Storm in Wellington: Wellington
is, as everybody knows, the "town of the hoist", however,
in the new year we were surprised by a well-arranged storm. Actually,
we wanted directly from Wellington with the ferry on the south island
translated, however, all ships were booked up, so that we had to wait
two days in Wellington." There ruled a well-arranged wind, however
our new tent (Space II) will already have to stand this if it wants
with to Padayonia", we imagined. For safety's sake we have built
up the tent, nevertheless, in a little bit sheltered from the wind
corner on the tent meadow beside the Hostel. In the beginning were
built up beside our tent one more whole series of other tents, however,
with progressive day and permanently rising wind speeds the tents
either have broken up themselves or were packed by her owners voluntarily
again. The storm became violent (we heard from wind speeds to 180
km/h), nevertheless, our tent stood like One. Not really we were surprised
when from at first to more than 20 tents the next morning a total
of even 5 were left (incl. ours)!
|The worlds fasts Indian: New
Zealand is not only famous for his magnificent sceneries and for "man
of the rings", but also for very much an unconventional kiwi:
Burt Monroe. Burt lived in the middle of the last century and had
to break the idea with his Indian (an old American motorcycle brand)
speed records. Many years he dedicated tuning of his Indian and, finally,
he immediately succeeded several times new speed records in installing.
Be record set in the 60th (with just 200 miles / hours has still unbroken,
by the way! About the history about the quick kiwi there is, by the
way, an absolutely worth seeing film! Dad museum is to be visited
the quick Indian in the Te in Wellington
|Cook Street: New Zealand exists of two
main islands and during the summer months (January in New Zealand
is comparable with July in Germany) we wanted on the south island
around this at the best season to experience. Because the islands
for a bridge lie too far apart there is of Wellington to Picton a
Fährverbindung about the so-called Street Cook (named to Captain
|Marlborough sounds: To come to
Picton on the south island the ferry has to do first sounds by the
wonderful fjord scenery of the Marlborough. Already from the ferry
the Marlborough sounds are wonderful to explore many lonesome booking,
however, with a sea kayak must be really dreamlike.
|Andreas: On the ferry we are on Andreas,
a German architect pushed. Andreas has taken a one-year-old time out
and now makes the world with his "Around the World Ticket"
and his bicycle unsafe. Andreas is "half-professional" at
home, actually, racing wheel and MTB-and the fact that he is on the
move here with the touring bicycle is already very unusual. However,
still much more unusually is, that to cycle he instead of in his usual
tempo has joined us for a few days. Thanks to Andreas the violent
headwind of Picton to Hokitika was only not so bad.
|Old-timer: In New Zealand no salt on the
street is strewn in winter and here thus there are exceptionally a
lot of old-timers. On the streets we have seen so already enough pieces
of jewellery they would manage to fill several museums. Only if nothing
more is to be made, the old cars receive the last place of rest.
|137. Weekly report 09.01. - 15.01.2006
Route: Greymouth, Hokitika, Franz Josef, Fox, Haast Paß
|In New Zealand there are the railway
bridges which are used by trains, cars and other road users together.
Not only the fact that the kiwis save a bridge, the together used
bridge is still so narrow that it can be used only in the mutual one-way
traffic. Woe to the cyclist who comes mistakenly to one of the rails.
|Bath lake: Who needs already a warm shower
if it free bath lakes like these gives. Of course we have the opportunity
immediately to an extensive bath and to the laundry wash used. Here
for 4€ converted per nose we Could even have spent the night.
|Rain!!!!! All the same where one looks in New Zealand,
everything is green! No miracle, nevertheless, here it rains often
and violently. Above all if the wind on north west turns and brings
warm wet clouds from the tropics, it can become especially wet on
New Zealand west coast, nevertheless, the clouds must calm down before
they can cross the up to 3000-m-high mountains. After lasting for
days strong wind from southwest (for us headwind) the wind suddenly
turned on north west and promptly we already sat in the flowing out
rain. And if I write here rain, I really mean rain and not only a
few raindrops. We had put back just 30 km as the sky his sluices opened
and when we after a total of 90 km shortly before Franz Josef our
tent hit we were already soaking wet up to the underpants. In the
sleeves of my rain jacket (which should be watertight thanks to Gore
Tex, actually, 100%) gathered regularly so much water that I had to
tip out it! After a difficult camp site search and an even more difficult
tent construction we succeeded sometime to us in creeping away in
our tent. The whole night rained it further in streams, nevertheless,
luckily we are not outswum. The next morning at 8:30 o'clock Andreas
came again to us cycled, meant, the rain would soon stop and about
10:30 o'clock we could still take part in a glacier tour on Franz
Josef Gletscher. So one meant to diminish everything and in Franz
Josef (Franz Josef is the tourist place situated in Franz Josef Gletscher)
in a Hostel check in around our bikes during the tour at a sure place
to know and to be able to enjoy one hot shower, moreover, in the evening.
You cannot introduce yourselves at all in the morning as pleasantly
it is still quick only the soaking wet things wringing out, before
one draws them again!!! When then, finally, everything was packed
we still cycled in the rain after Franz Josef to check in there in
"Glow Worm" (glow worm). However, for the glacier tour we
were too late meanwhile, because 3/4 day trips was already fully booked
up, so that we have spent the rest of the day primarily with it to
us and our things again to drain.
|Franz Josef Gletscher: The glacier
from to the Austrian Julius Haast who has named him after the king
of Austria-Hungary, Franz Josef was discovered. Franz Josef Gletscher
has, as well as the fox terrier situated in the neighbouring valley
glacier to offer some specific features which distinguishes him from
his colleagues in Europe. Here differently than with us the glacier
ends almost on sea level (maybe 200 m over the sea) and, besides,
is surrounded richly by tempered rainforest!!!! Besides Franz Josef
Gletscher is at the moment also in grow namely about 1/2 m per day!
In some Steilstellen the masses of ice roll even at the breathtaking
speed of 4 m - 10 m per day downhill! Like we know already here it
rains on the west coast a lot (in the glacier 66%) and in the upper
share of the glacier it is snowing yearly about 45000 mm (45 m or
what is so much as for example 15000 mm of rain!), about 3x so much
like in the rainiest corner of England.
|Together with Andreas it went on 3/4 day trips
on the glacier. From the tour supplier (we had to explore no equipment
with ourselves around the glacier on own initiative) we were equipped
with a rain jacket, climbing iron, cap and gloves and afterwards were
driven by a coach up to the glacier parking bay. We reached postproperty
of one hour of walk the massive and impressive glacier front. Now
the climbing irons were invested before it went, from the guides in
the ice struck step layouts in the glacier. Our guide led to us the
next 4 hours then by the amusing world from ice which we had not seen
thus yet. Our route led about narrow burrs, bridges, and valleys from
ice, past gigantic ice pileworks and caves, small lakes and brooks.
Although it already after one hour in the ice raining started, nevertheless,
we were absolutely fascinated by the unique blue tones of the ice.
Nevertheless, more quietly the rain became more and more violent,
so that I problems had to take photos and it, moreover, sensitively
dank and became windy. Because the guides had forgotten to give us
in the morning rain trousers and we cooled down bit by bit stronger
and stronger were not to be had booked gladly, nevertheless, the day
|Blue ice: the blue one is absolutely amusing!!!
|Guides in Franz Josef Gletscher:
Around the tourist have to make the glacier so accessibly as possible
the guides a right track with whole stair layouts and bridges (from
managers) in the ice hit. A not quite safe work with the speed with
itself the glacier downhill moves and face of the fact that the guides
are not protected (the customers, by the way, also not). After the
strong rainfall of the day before many stair layouts were washed out
almost completely and some passages were impassable in the glacier,
so that we passed everywhere Jungs, besides, were to be repaired the
ice path again. Our guide apparently had to show to more fun in the
Stufenschlagen than us the glacier and thus we had to stop every few
metres there he wanted to improve an already available step something
else. Quite irritatingly in particular as the rain started. Up to
some absolutely necessary security tips we received from our guide
no further information to the glacier although it absolutely a lot
would have given to explain. The guides meanwhile it are supposed,
nevertheless, about 500 visitors on the ice controlled are quite scalded
in the high season daily.
|Glow Worms: In New Zealand there is a special
kind of glow worms. In contrast to our glowworms they do not fly by
the night separate sit, e.g., in a small rock surplus. like spiders
they can let viscous threads to producing them hang down from the
deck. Now at night the glow worm squats behind his threads and catches
in bluish to shine to attract insects. If these are then in the viscous
threads got stuck they are eaten by the glow worm. With Franz Josef
we have made a small night excursion to hunt out some glow worms what
we also managed.
|Haast pass: Although the highest mountains
of New Zealand are more than 3000 m high the pass crossings are not
so dramatic completely. Our first bigger pass was named of the
Haast pass (after the discoverer of Franz Josef Gletschers) with
just 565 m. Though this does not sound a lot in contrast to the passs
we in Northern India have defeated, however, New Zealand Lkws have
substantially strength and thus the passs are also steep
|138. Weekly report 16.01. - 22.01.2006
Route: Haast pass, Wanaka, Queenstown
|The suns halo: We have never seen such
a strong halo around the sun which is reflected even in a lake. Whether
hangs this maybe not far together with the ozone hole which lies over
Antarctic so from here?
|3 valleys tour: After we have crossed the
Haast pass successfully I have discovered that Makarora, the next
small place, is a starting point for the 4-day Gillespie pass trek.
The next morning I have reported Nadine about the travelling possibility
and after we just still had enough stocks of food with ourselves and
our bicycles in the centre DOC (DOC have meant: Department of Conservation
and is virtually a national park and nature conservation authority
in New Zealand who also looks after all footpaths and huts) were unterput,
it went left on foot around noon. The Gillespie pass connects Young
Tal with the Siberia valley and the Wilkin valley and lies on about
1500 m.above sealavel. The day are for quick travellers with mostly
6 - 8 hours stated hihing time and because the New Zealand huts are
all self-supporting huts, one must carry his whole food with himself.
Looking back a very nice tour!
|River crossing: Nevertheless, the tour
has a small hook, because to come to the tour, or from the tour again
out one must cross in each case the Makarora river. Nearly all tourists
are stopped from the challenge and sign on a jet boat that transfers
them dry, but, after our tours with John and Ann, wet feet and river
crossings are for us in the meanwhilea a standard programme. Now,
nevertheless, o.k. this was applied a little thickly, because the
Makarora was a really big river with strong current. Up to the hip
we stood in the ice-cold water and would be the current have been
stronger we would have had serious problems. However, thus we have
come easily on the other side.
|Rainbows: Actually, we should have been
recompensed for the steep increase of the Gillespie pass with an impressive
view, but, the weather wanted it differently and thus we were glad
with drizzle, strong winds and thick clouds that it came not even
more badly. On the descent then, nevertheless, the big recompensation.
Every now and then the clouds burst and thus we might admire more
than one hour permanently other rainbows!
|Siberia for normal tourists: In the middle of the
Siberia valley lies the Siberia hut. Ordinarily costs a hut overnight
stay 10, - $NZ, nevertheless, thanks to our hut passs we got for 90,
- $NZ, here we can spend the night free of charge. Nevertheless, here
the main attraction is the "Siberia Experience". For floppy
240.-$NZ (about 140€) one can let fly him in by a small airplane
to the Siberia hut. Now one must walk during 2-3 hours downstream
to the Wilkin river. Then in the Wilkin a jet boat expects one that
brings one through a rapid journey back to the starting point. The
whole tour would cost less than half if one only by the jet boat booted
up the Wilkin, and after a small hike of the Siberia hut will be able
to be to flown out, however, this says of course nobody.
|Kerin Forks hut: Our last overnight stay
on the Gillies pass trek should be the Kerin Forks hut. The hut lies
in only about 1.5 trekking hours from the Siberia hut, so, actually,
a comfortable day. Nevertheless, a small hook had the sdaye, because
to come to the hut one must cross first the Wilkin river. After strong
rainfall at night water and in the normal ford led of the Wilkin substantially
one would have stood about the breast in the water. Beside the high
water level current of the Wilkin was strong and so crossing was impossible
at this point. Something above formed of the Wilkin, nevertheless,
some arms and thus we tried together with John a Canadian, to cross
there the river. First everything looked very promising and the first
3 arms we were able easily by or cross (on trunk), however, the last
arm was impassable again. After we too stopped the attempt after about
2 hours and went back to the real transitional place. Fortunately,
the water level had sunk meanwhile so strongly that one could see
the stones on the ground here now again, and, finally, thus we managed
easily the river crossing. The Kerin Forks hut was only a half as
big with 10 beds than the Siberia hut and was very comfortable. Also
the 76 year-old hut warden was absolutely first-class and looked older
no day than 60. Anyhow he had roasted to himself and his friends too
many steaks to the dinner and thus he offered them to us. We as a
vegetarian refused them with thanks and thus John could be pleased
with 3 tasty steaks.
|Lake Hawea: Impressive Überbleibsel
of a former glacier is the gigantic mountain lake "Lake Wanaka"
with his impressive mountain scenery. Directly beside the Wanaka lake
there lies of the Hawea the lake which is even more impressive.
|Bra - fence: Between Wanaka and Queenstown
there is in the middle of the scenery a pasture fence on which almost
all female tourists her bra or briefs hang. With our narrow budget
we could decorate of course the fence not with our underwear, however,
for Nadine came up thus the possibility after a few new clothing pieces
to keep a lookout. Although the choice was gigantic, nevertheless,
Nadine has found nothing the fitting.
|Queenstown: Queenstown is the modern Outdoorzentrum
of New Zealand if not even of the world, are, nevertheless, the Bungie
Jumping and the jet boat go by narrow river gulches here resulted.
The tourist boom occurs here annually has arranged the resourceful
kiwis of course to develop more and more mad ideas and here thus one
is able meanwhile on a Bodyboard (small surfboard) mighty white-water
rivers hinunterrauschen (to WW IV) or itself a Giant swing (a 109-m-high
gigantic swing in it the first 90 m nearly in the free fall to surface
of the earth is a matter to grant before one then ausschwingt). Also
otherwise Queenstown the purest fairground and there we is neither
nice nor it are rich we remained only so long to us had made purchases
and had checked our emails.
|139. Weekly report 23.01. - 29.01.2006
Route: Glenorchy, Caples Treck, Milford Sound, Routeburn Treck,
Rees Dart Treck, Glenorchy
|Travelling weeks with 2 day backpacks:
From Queenstown we went directly along a gigantic mountain lake to
Glenorchy (with 925 metres ascents on 45 km anything but level). Glenorchy
is the starting point for a 9-day trekking tour for us. First it should
go during 2 days on the Caples trek. In the 3rd day we want to run
from the Caples trek down to the Divide on Milford street around the
last kilometres from there (presumably about 40 km) to hitchhike to
the famous Milford Sound. The next morning we hitchhiked back to the
Divide and went into the Routeburn during 3 days one of "Great
Walks". Then from the Routeburn trek we want directly further
go in the Rees Dart trek (incl. rivercrossing of the Dart) with 4
days the conclusion of our round tour should form. Because there are
on the way no purchasing possibilities and we must camp on the Routeburn
trek, one says in addition to our things still the whole camping equipment
and cooking equipment as well as all food in our both small backpacks
(30 l of volume) to pack. To believe hardly, however, we have created
it what introduces admiring views in us on every hut once more (most
have full 60 l of backpack for 3-4 days). May be that our backpacks
were rather small, they were not, however, light!!!
|Boardwalk: To protect especially sensitive
areas in the mountains against the trekkers there are in New Zealand
over and over again so-called Boardwalks. Also of the Caples trek
was provided with a some hundred metre-long Boardwalk. There should
be, by the way, some trekking tours where it goes for days nearly
exclusively about Boardwalks.
|Milford sound: Milford sound is one of
the most famous places of interest of New Zealand and everywhere it
is highly recommended; so the disappointment is virtually already
preprogrammed! Of Milford sound a gigantic fjord is in the really
high mountain which fall directly into the sea . Virtually whenever
high mountains fall directly into the sea are meant this of course
also that the arriving clouds cannot here simply thus continue and
must first of all rain of the water. No miracle if of Milford sound
counts to the rainier areas in rainy New Zealand! Though we were not
disappointed by Milford Sound, however, it was cloudy with partial
some drizzle, and thus the mountain points everybody were covered
in clouds. Nevertheless, in nice weather (which there should also
be here) Milford sound is more great! Except a big boat terminal in
one can book one of the countless boat tours and a lodge there is
in Milford Sound, actually, nothing and thus we decided instead of
to spend the night here to go rather, nevertheless, directly again
to the mountains. We position ourselves again to the street and after
not even 5 minutes the Australian couple goes past again which has
taken us already with to Milford Sound, and picks up and once more.
Then from the Devide we had to run only 1 1/4 hrs uphill, before we
could creep away in our tent.
|Keas: Keas are the only alp parrots of the world and
live exclusively in the mountain world on New Zealands south island.
Although they from the distance work very insignificantly they have
very nice in plumage fluorescent red and green. Keas are shy by no
means and, moreover, interested in all curiosities which they examine
then also straight away with her sharp beak, or better said destroy
it! Because of her habit nearly to destroy everything with their beaks
Keas are called also "ill-behaved" by the New Zealander.
Special specialities on the destruction list of the Keas are: Autowindshield
wiper, window and door rubber in cars, backpacks, bicycle seats and
all other things what either looks interesting oris unattended. On
the way back from Milford Sound we briefly had to wait around by Homer
Tunnel (one-way traffic) when a Kea came flying along. Though only
he found another car more interesting, nevertheless, with a few amusing
noises we woke his attention and already he came along. Only he still
sat (we exactly observant and on any delicacy hoping) beside the car,
however, as it nothing gave he has flown without further ado on the
side mirror to be able to observe the passengers of the car more exactly.
|Routeburn trek: He offers no miracle that
the Routeburn trek belongs to the Great Walks, nevertheless, waterfalls,
mountain lakes, alpines landscape and on nice days some marvellous
views of the south alps and even up to the sea. How one can recognise
easily we had lovely weather!!!!!!!!
|Great Walk: The DOC has called his most
popular travelling tours "Great Walks", and without further
ado has quadrupled the hut prices and forbade to tents equally completely
or limited on certain places. Thus it comes that one must book the
Great walk tours before (in particular Milford sound walk already
months before) around travellers together other with whole hosts through
the mountains to make a pilgrimage. In the evening then everybody
meets on the always fully booked-up huts with their 50 beds. The Great
Walks are seen by many very critical, there here in comparison to
the other tours in New Zealand the hut standard and the upgrade of
the paths to an extremely high level have reached only to attract.even
more tourists However, for all comfort (gas and toilets with flush)
one must also accept that before the huts beside the usually usual
flowers a few gas cylinders and coal bags lie.
|Edelweiss: In the New Zealand alps there
are massively edelweisses.
|A quiet little place and a river
crossing: The most difficult part of our trekking tour was the
crossing from the Routeburn trek into the Rees Dart trek. For just
42€ we could simply have signed on to us a Shuttelservice for
the 30-km-long distance, however, neither our travel cash nor our
travel style were compatible with it. Instead, we decided to go from
the Routburn trek directly into the Dart trek. Even with optimum course
(we create the quick stated times) and a trouble-free river crossing
a day long 11 hours approached us. The first 5 hours up to the Rockburn
hut were absolutely easy and we arrive here still ahead of our schedule.
At this remote place we dedn´t expect to see anybodx, but as
the hut is situated in the Dart, we hit on a guided Raftingtour with
about 30 participants and 15 boats! So no idyllic rest. However, we
properly had luck, because the team had finished just the lunch break
and thus we got offered from the guides the left-over fancy cake .
We could supply about 10 little pieces of fancy cakes thus to our
scarcely calculated sweets (almost like Christmas). Finally, after
a next hour which we have fought this time without marked way upstream
through the bushes we reach the place to cross the Dart river recommended
by the jet boat drivers (all employees DOC has refused to give us
information over crossing places, because they meant the river would
be too dangerous!) . The Dart formed here, nevertheless, several side
arms and the first arms were absolutely trouble-free. Merely the last
side arm was a little deeper (the water passed us again up to the
hip) and also the current was rather strong (possibly football tallness
stones started to roll away if we hit them), but meanwhile we had
some experience in crossing of rivers, so that also this time everything
ran easily. Now we had to follow only during 3.5 hours a well used
path, until we arrived after 10.5-hour, finally, completely exhausted
shortly after sunset on the Daleys Flat hut. From the supernice hut
warden we have received there even immediately a pot of tea.
|Rees Dart trek: The Rees Dart trek is a
4-day trekking tour along the rivers Rees and Dart with a small pass
crossing. The river valleys are wonderful and one can see almost constant
ones the mountaintops with glaciers. Above all from the Rees pass
one has a miraculous view at the Dart glacier. Also the huts are from
the finest and in particular the Dart hut is still brandnew. Because
we have come from the Routeburn we had to run the trek clockwise and
therefore against the normal stream of hikers. Ordinarily further
badly, however, the end of the trek still does lies 23 km from Glenorcy.
However, from the last hut up to the parking bay in the Muddy Creek
(in which also the shuttle coach holds) these are still scanty 6-hour
term, and thus we want to walked in our last but one day still to
shortly before the Muddy Creek to get the only coach of the day the
next morning about 10:00 o'clock. Then, however, at last it came differently
and thus we have walked on the same day still directly up to the Muddy
Creek (this time we have met 9.5-hrs pure term), nevertheless, on
the way another 2 Norwegians to us have offered us a lift in their
car to Glenorchy. Thus we arrived instead of after planned 9-10 days
(the 10th day was the reserve day) already after 8 wonderful sunny
days (exception few cloudy hours in Milford Sound) again in Glenorchy.
We have spent the night then on the camping site, nevertheless, the
idea of a warm shower was too tempting.
|Weather forecast and Sandflies warning:
Here nearly all huts have the status "Serviced hut" what
means that they are looked after during the summer months by a hut
warden who makes the necessary repair work on the ways. In addition,
collecting the hut tickets or the control of the hut passs . Another
service by the hut landlord is the daily updated weather forecast,
as well as the warning before special dangers, e.g. from Keas or here
from the dreaded Sandflies! (P.S.: Sandflies transfer no illnesses.
This was meant here only as a joke)
140. Weekly report: 30.01. - 05.02.2006
Route: Glenorchy, Queenstown, Alexandra, Middlemarch, Dunedin,
|Bungee Jumping: Exactly at this point,
in the Karwarau bridge with Queenstown, the Bungee Jumping was invented
in the end of the 80s. Meanwhile the old wooden bridge has become
Mecca of the Addrenalinsüchtigen with a specially established
futuristic information centre.
|Bodyboarden in the river: To
whom kayak go is too complicated and the Raften in a big rubber dinghy
not enough is individualistic, that simply catches to himself a Bodyboard
(actually, the simple version of a surfboard (surf in terms of surfing)).
A few creative Outdoorfreaks have made a few years ago exactly this
in Queenstown and have rushed thus in a white-water river. We were
properly inspired by the idea (have taken part from lack of time,
however, in no tour). So a Bodyboard seems to function easily in really
well-arranged torrent (WW IV) (even with beginners) and offers thus
an interesting alternative to the kayak except of course if too many
rocks are in the river.
|Odayo Rail Trail: From Clyde via Alexandra
and Ranfurly to Middlemarch leads the so-called Odayo Rail Trail about
225 km by the highland of Centrally Odayo. Till 1990 the distance
was still driven on by a railway regularly, through more and more
efficient streets the railway line became increasingly more unprofitable,
so that it was diminished, finally. The area was taken over from the
DOC and was altered for 850000$NZ (about 500000€) to a wheel
and footpath. Apparently no cyclists were nevertheless involved in
the rebuilding work, those the layer very coarse grit and is often
to be driven on very hard. Is regional Centrally Odayo with his widen
to scanty plateaus and narrow gulches very nicely.
|Middlemarch: Actually, the small place
Middlemarch is worth by no means something special and no mention,
he would not form the terminator point of the Odayo Rail Trail. The
fact is interesting also that Middlemarch officially belongs to the
city of Dunedin. A short view at the map lets us stop short, nevertheless,
these are still 80 km to Dunedin (100000 inhabitants and it still
over some mountains and valleys, with more than only to one par sheep,
goes. Although Middlemarch officially to Dunedin heard there rules
up here absolute women's shordaye (apparently, nevertheless, not enough
urban). To lure a few pleasing on her farms the farmers of Middlemarch
a few years ago have brought to life "Singledance Middlemarch".
I.e. the boys of the Schaffarmen come along smartly around with the
girl from Dunedin which become specially by rail here rebooted to
make impression on the big dance incredibly. As to us is reported
the event taking place all 2 years seems to be really successful and
even a German television broadcasting station has turned the last
year (in 2005) a nice film about it.
|The steepest street in the world
(Dunedin): According to Guinessbuch of the records Baldwin Street
is the most steep street of the world in Dunedin. On 161 m 47.22
m must be scaled what corresponds to an average gradient of 1:3,41
(about 30%). The gradient at the most steep place (shortly before
the end of the increase if all strength is already verpulvert) amounts
to the gradient 1:2,86 (35%). Although I am incredibly out of breath
as me on top it arrives, the main problem was not the being absent
strength, but the fact that the street is so steep that the
front wheel wants to take off permanently from the ground. A few drivers
have tried to start, by the way, in vain in the middle of the mountain.
After Nadine talks below to somebody, I have to go when I have defeated
the street, again down run around the photo to get. Again on top I
ask a few Japanese a few photos before myself to make (Japanese have
in take a photo as is known of a lot of experience). Now I also have
to start the problem in the middle of the mountain. Nevertheless,
at last in contrast to the drivers I succeed, although it looks quite
ramshackle on the photo.
|Moeraki Bolders: In the middle by the sea,
about 80 km to the north of Dunedin with Moeraki, some Steinboulder
lie directly on the beach. The gigantic stone balls have a diameter
of about 1 m. Nevertheless, they have originated not while they were
washed by the sea around, but the Boulder were already as well as
they are dug in the Steilwand situated on the beach and were merely
rinsed by the sea. In total 20 lie absolutely - 30 Boulder here on
|141. Weekly report: 06.02. - 12.02.2006
Route: Oamaru, Twitzel, Lake Pukaki, Lake Tekapo, Geraldine,
|Waitangi day: Differently than in Australia
which was explained by the Englishmen simply as an unsettled country
and was annexed the sales representatives of the British crown with
some Maori to headmen have negotiated a contract, the Treaty of Waitangi.
In principle were fixed in the 2/6/1840 in the contract that the Maori
owners of her country are which takes over British crown, nevertheless,
the government dealings and the Maori citizens would have the same
rights like the Britons. However, the contract was translated not
1:1 into the language the Maori, but was changed at some places (or
reverse, the English text was changed), so that there are 2 partly
rather different contracts. In memory of the contract signing with
that the Maori by the Englishmen a little bit were cheated, the 6th
of February was explained to the national holiday. We have already
been surprised in Oamaru that nearly all shops are concluded, nevertheless,
we knew nothing about the holiday, however, we have met most inhabitants
then still on before the gates of the town situated horse racecourse.
As well as already the Australians love so also the New Zealanders
horse running, an always welcome opportunity for a sociable afternoon.
|Maori rock paintings: Just as
the Aboriginals have also made some Maori rock paintings, however,
in contrast to her Australian colleagues they have begun with it not
already before several millenniums, but only some decades ago (maybe
after an Australia vacation). We could not find a right interpretation
of the symbols.
|Mackenzie Country: From the coast
it goes again in the inland on the gigantic Mackenzie plateau, after
the cattle thief James McKenzie (more funnily wise ones are written
both names differently) is named. James McKenzie has stolen in 1843
from one of the richest cattle owners of the area 1000 sheep and has
fled with it before his pursuers in the plateau unknown still at that
time. Then, however, at last he was caught and condemned to 5 years
of heavy hard labour, while other cattle breeders have started to
settle the plateaus.
|Lake Pukaki und Tekapo: As witnesses
formerly gigantic glacier both lakes Lake Pukaki and Lake Tekapo
lie in the Mackenzie country. The absolutely amusing turquoise paint
of the lakes (on the photo, unfortunately, properly to does not recognise),
comes from the sediment depositions by the reason of the lakes by
the glaciers have originated (the rocks under the glaciers were crushed
to them to rock dust (sediment)). The lakes also furthermore are fed
by glacier water and by the sediment particles in the water the lakes
have her unreal milky one look.
|Mt. Cook ones: Mt. Cook ones the highest
mountain is with his 3755 m in New Zealand. Because the mountain named
after the English captain James Cook only 44 km of the sea remotely
lies the harsh weather conditions which have cost her life already
to many mountaineers rule here.
|Sheepherd: New Zealand is, as everybody
knows, the country of the sheep and around many sheep of a gigantic
pasture on another pasture important assistants are often to be brought
dog. To bring his cookers over the street on another pasture this
shepherd set out together to his 5 dogs. Everybody remained only well
with him and on a command the dog appealed in each case has opened
fire like an oiled flash to lure the sheep into the right direction,
while remaining remained with her master. Was to be seen very impressively
the dogs at her work.
|Irrigation plant: In the Mackenzie
plateau it is very dry and thus the farmers water her Ländereien
artificially. Of course one needs for this a little bigger "lawn
sprinklers". This irrigation plant is more than 1 km long and
rolls while watering straight across the field.
|Children-change station: In New Zealand
there are the very practical furnishings, the so-called children-change
station. If one is not with his child contently one simply goes to
one of the stations mostly situated with public toilets. Now one opens
the flap of the children to rope's station, his child puts and concludes
the flap. Now the child is traded and if one the flap opens once more
one receives new (hopefully better) child. Or does mean "Children
Change of station" at the end, nevertheless, just "compress
|Looking for a in Christchurch:
From the plateaus in Canterbury it further goes to Christchurch, with
330000 inhabitants the third-biggest town of New Zealand. We have
to work before from the middle of February in Motueka and to save
the expenses for an accomodation we have to get the idea a car (estate
car or dormobile) in which we can sleep then. Three strenuous days
we spend with the search for a suitable favorable car, however, thus
properly we do not make a find. Either the owners are not accessible,
or they have fanciful Preisvorstellugen. Most baking packers want
to have paid because the money them for her car and have invested
everything what they in the car again got back, what is of course
with cars beyond 200000 km of border rather unrealistically (not to
say unserious). At last we surrender after 3 days, nevertheless, we
also are, finally, a bicycle traveller. Moreover, we would have been
demanded too much with the bewildering road signs anyhow by a car.
|Warm Shower List: The Warmly Shower list
is an aggregation of riding a bike all over the world, other riding
a bike offer with them to spend the night at home free of charge.
In total there are several thousand cyclists the member here are,
and since September, 2005 we also belong to it. In Christchurch then
our first attempt with another member of the "Warmly Shower"
to record cunning" contact and thus we land with Jessi and Anni.
The both live in a small house 3 Km on the city centre in Christchurch
remotely and we come camp in her garden and relax with a hot shower.
|142. Weekly report: 13.02. - 19.02.2006
Route: Christchurch, Motueka
| Burning coach: The beginning of the Apfelpflücksaison
always gets closer and because it are to be cycled back to Motueka
(Nelson) still more than 500 km, unfortunately, we must take the coach.
During the coach journey our bicycles were mounted together with 2
other bikes on a bicycle carrier on the follower coupling sits (clever
idea and here very much widespread). After just 3-hour coach journey
will become from a car outdated and the driver signals us that something
is not behind in the coach in order. A funny smell has struck me already
before, however because the coach the very latest model is not intended,
besides, I have to me nothing else. We urge in a small bay to find
out that a bicycle tyre burns! The first bicycle on the carrier was
too near in the exhaust and this has blown the hot exhaust gases directly
on the front wheel. It was only one matter of time to this has started
to burn. The fire is fast extinguished, the remains of the tyre become
anyhow by the bicycle knots and further goes the trip. Luckily for
us it is none of our bicycles. Nadines front wheel is quite black
from the exhaust exhaust gases and a little bit warm, and thus I develop
it for safety's sake in the next break fast. We want to go on just
after an other short rest again, than to us One waving hinterherrennt.
Now my wheel was to be said goodbye just, besides, to the carrier.
This time the securing clip had broken from the bicycle carrier for
my wheel, so that my wheel would have liked almost from the carrier.
I would not like to remember at all like my bicycle would have looked
if it to 100 km/h on open distance would have fallen down; if we had
found again it than ever. The coach driver has obviously despaired
and thus my wheel is packed simply fast into the loading bay. Finally,
after 8.5-hrs coach journey we reach Richmond. Here we leave to the
coach and the last 40 km cycle to Motueka.
| Postman or coach driver: Although
New Zealand is not so big at all, the distances are for many farmers
up to the next bigger town (everything from 2000 inhabitants is often
very big a bigger town with ordinarily reasonable purchasing possibilities).
Thus it comes that the coach drivers deliver post or goods for many
farmers situated in the big through roads. We urge on our coach journey
at least 10 times to hand over either post, or to deliver milk and
spare parts for the tractor. Here in New Zealand a self-evident fact
to introduce, however, hardly in Germany.
| F.R.JAMES AND SONS: Two days
before beginning of the Apfelpflücksaison we arrive on the apple
plantation of F.R.JAMES AND SONS. The apple plantation lies 8 km to
the north of Motueka in a nice valley. The last both days before it
is a matter picking in we need to prepare at home in the accomodation,
to shop food for the next week and to organise a work permit for Martin.
Here probably till the beginning of May we will remain on the apple
plantation to increase our travel cash desk.
143. - 145. Weekly reports 20.02. - 12.03.2006
| Apple picking: Our job as an Apfelplücker
is fast described: armed with a big manager and a big belly pocket
it goes in one of many rows with apple trees. However, differently
than with us in a nice orchard the trees do not stand nicely multi-coloredly
on a meadow distributed everybody separates nicely well in lining
up and limb (how the shoots in a vineyard). Now we must fill our belly
pocket with apples and empty this then in big boxes which stand in
the walk between the apple trees. The boxes have the layout of an
Europlalette, are 3/4 m high about one and weigh fullly with apples
500 kg. The hook with the apple picking is that one cannot tear anyhow
the apples simply fastest possibly from the tree and throw in his
belly pocket, because they are received, otherwise, pressure points
and are unmarketable. I.e.i we must lay the apples with a rolling
movement plücken and afterwards carefully in our pockets, before
we empty them softly in the big box. A time-consuming trial and thus
we need 1 - to fill 1.5 hours around a box. Per box we get 27.5$NZ
paid-up from what after deduction of the tax (20%) another 22 are
left $NZ. In total we come so then on the unbelievable hourly wage
of 7$NZ - 11$NZ (4.00 EUR - 6.30 EUR). Laboriously the squirrel lives,
however, after 11 hours of work (8 - 10 boxes fullly and 5 to. to
gefpflückten apples) gathers nevertheless mostly rather considerable
amount (in particular in consideration of our dayesbugets of 5 EUR
| Tailor gold: Here on the plantation special
pear places with the name "Tailor of gold" were invented
some years ago. The pears are gigantic, have golden, rough bowls and
are sold for the unbelievable price of 25 EUR for 20 big unscratched
pears in the USA. The bowls are extremely sensitive to scratches and
to avoid this the pears must be picked in such a way that the handles
break here in them in the tree have grown. After 1.5 Pflückdayen
then the shocking news: Almost all Pflücker have broken off too
many handles so that partially are unmarketable up to 75% of the pears!
We had the luck that Wendy Tailor, she has crossed the kind and is
responsible here for quality management, us has shown how easily itself
the pears scratch mutually so that we very much on the styles have
paid attention. Together with a Canadian couple are thus the only
ones who are allowed to do furthermore pears picking! Nevertheless,
a very happy fact, pears with 20$NZ (before tax) and half as big boxes
(are paid like the apple boxes) much better than apples. We receive
own tractor with follower on jeweis 4 empty boxes stand and must go
from our boxes now even by the area (up to now Fred of the tractor
drivers has made). Nevertheless, unfortunately, there are only some
rows of pears and after 2.5 days everything is picked.
| Again pears: We have already been surprised
all the time, why between the Tailor gold pears still other pear trees
do not stand they should be picked. In thoughts we have already regretted
the poor Pflücker they must pick these pears, the trees stood
distributed, nevertheless, everywhere. Of course it has got with this
job also us, however, now had to pick like again in the big apple
boxes. Now the whole went better than expected and after a day all
pears were picked.
146. Weekly report 13.03. - 19.03.2006
Route: Motueka, Abel Tasman Nationalpark
| Abel Tasman: Just 20 km to the north of
Motueka lies a national park namedafter the seafarer and discoverer
Abel Tasman. The national park directly situated by the sea accommodates
one of the nicest trekking routes in New Zealand: Abel Tasman Coastal
Trek who leads by primeval forest and about beaches. An alternative
to the congested trekking route is a sea kayak tour along the coastal
line. We decide to do a 2-day kayak tour into the middle of the national
park. Afterwards we went on foot further to c the north of the national
park and then back over the Inlandtrek to the starting point. One
can rent fully equipped sea kayaks in Kaiteriteri and in Marahau easily
and there one receives aslo a half-day training.
| Mad Mile: We head for an island which
lies directly before the coast instead of paddling with all other
further along the coast. Adele island is a protected birds area and
predominantly is inhabited from Shags. We want to paddle around the
island but on the outside fresh winds blow us already in the middle
in the face. The sea gets rougher and so we have the first smaller
waves. When we will paddle then on the eastern side of the coast to
the north from the fresh breeze changes into a stiff breeze. We have
to fight against the wind and with waves of more than 1 metre (another
boat has chosen this route and if we in a trough of the sea are we
cannot see the other canoeist any more) is anything but dull to us.
Several times waves go over the boat, but the sea kayak lies very
good in the water. Also when we arrived at the north end of the island,
again in the direction of mainland paddle now the wind and the waves
come from the side and afre no bigger problems.. Then after just 1.5
hours we are exhausted but again on the coast. Now it should nevertheless
go into the "Mad Mile". The Mad Mile a just a 2 km long
coastal segment and is famous for taut headwind and waves. We put
to ourselves again wind and waves, however, in the Mad Mile it is
luckily a little bit quiet as with the island. Now, however, becomes
apparent that we have already paddled round the island and we must
fight quite a bite to paddle against the wind (as a cyclist our upper
arms are undetrained a little bit). After another hour in the headwind
and nice waves we reach exhausted and contently in the late afternoon
the big Anchorage bay. As already on the route Burn Trek one must
also camp here in e thovernight stay place (we again booked before).
From the desired idyllic night a la Robinson Cruso on a lonesome beach,
however, no track. Together with about 100 other canoeists and trekkers,
under it is also a school class, we share the camp site. The traffic
jam fields we were not announced, by the way, completely so waterproof
and thus our tent swam in the water.
| Where are the spoons? I have
asked Nadine as our dinner was ready, about our cuttlery, but even
after repeated searching of the whole equipment our spoons and forks
remained missing. Necessity is the mother of invention and as the
noodles are already ready we take two tent herrings and eat with it
like with rod our spaghetti. Well, with spaghetti the trick with the
herrings still works, however how should we eat tomorrow morning our
muesli? Actually, I move around get a better idea: Mussels. Almost
I already surrender, because have broken all mussel or they are just
too small when I find two nice bowls of an oyster at the very back
end of the beach. Most other park visitors presumably hold us for
a little bit cracked aswe are using during the next days our shells
to eat our muesli and noodles, but, we are happy that we don´t
have to eat with the fingers.
| Seals: In our second paddle day first
we paddle to visit a sea lion colony on a small rocky island 1 km
offshore. At the back of the rock we hit in a sort of seal kindergarten.
About 15 young seals, they areonly a few months old, splash here pleasedly
in the water, while some older seal doze bored on the rock in the
sun. The young seal are shy by no means and dribble round us and under
our boat. We were already impressed by the sea lions on the beach
of Känguruh Iceland in Australia but here in the water it is
something else. The seals are in the water fully in their element
and the acrobatic clowns of the seas are show every child, but it
is really quite an experience to see them in the wild. A young seal
allowed itself a small joke with us, rushes directly to us, jumps
out of the water, and las lands half a metre before our kayak with
a loud splashing again in the sea. For half an hour we observe the
activity, but meanwhile other canoeists have also discovered the playing
seals and in the midst of the other boats we do not feel so fine and
keep on paddling
| Split Apple rock: A gigantically split
rock lump in the middle of the sea.
| Even more seals: The real seal
colony lives a few kilometres to the north of the rock on Tonga, and
also here we hit we in seal kindergarden. Nevertheless, here the seal
children play in a protected lagoon and there one to is not allowed
to come closer than 20 m to a sea lion on rock.
| Nice lagoons: We follow the coastal line
and because we can have high water we explore one nice lagoon after
the other. In many lagoons there are also small idyllic camping sites,
however, to get hold of them one must book them already for a while
in advance. Finally, after a total of two wonderful and exciting paddle
days we exchange on the beach in the Onetahuti bay our sea kayak again
for our treeking boots.
| Coastal Trek: While the first half of
the Coastal Treks is surely overrun, then it is a little bit quieter
in the north. As with all Great Walks the footpath is also developed
here extremely well and anything but demanding, however, along the
walking of beaches along the coast has its charm. The walking in the
deep sand with a heavy backpack on the back is extremely strenuous
and after every beach segment we must empty about a kilo sand from
our shoes (no idea how this must have been for the Foreign Legionnaires
in the Sahara). Nadines initial scepticism compared with an overcrowded
Great Walk has vanished completely.
| Tidal Crossing: Two places on the Coastal
Trek can be crossed only with low tide and one stands still in the
middle of the water. In particular the crossing in the Awora bay with
his gigantic sandy beches at low tide is wonderful. We meet a few
locals who have collected just oysters and learned from them a small
abbreviation, instead of by the wood, directly along the beach leads
to our next camping site. Just still on time before the flood we reach
our small comfortable overnight campsite.
| Traveller's dream: Who has dreamt after
a hard long travelling tour not already from to a jump in chill Wet!
Here on Abel Tasman Coastal Trek it is the well-earned pleassure which
expects us every evening.
| Inlandtrek: From the north point of the
national park the 3-day inland Trek leads back to Marahau. Differently
than the coastal way nearly no travellers are to be found here, completely
in contrast to the Fantails. Fantails are small little birds with
a fan-like tail. Almost permanently we have one of the trusting journeymen
around ourselves and some also follow us flying from branch to branch.
Their curiosity is bigger than her fear and thus they are often less
than 1 metre from us. The inland Trek is real nothing else as a connecting
way, and in particular the second day we spend exclusively in the
bush. The huts lie here on more than 700 m over the sea and here as
it is just autumn it gets in the evening it already cold, so that
Martin must make fire wood to heat the oven. Merely in the third and
last day we are recompensed with some nice views of the coastal line.
After 6 days we are again back at our starting point and go as hitchhikers
back to our apple plantation.
147 + 148. Weekly report 20.03. - 02.04.2006
|Still apple picking: Well what I should tell, except that
we are still with the apple picking. Occasionally we had to drive
sometimes our big boxes with a tractor by the rows. The real tractor
driver had left the apple plantation and Derryl found more comfortably
to us and another couple to press the tractor the eye. In total I
have sat every day about 1 hour in the tractor and whole of course
unpaid. We were not contented with the situation and have tried to
explain after 10 days of Derryl that it costs us too much Right if
I drive the tractor by the area (for the whole season, at least, laxly
500 EUR) and have asked him quite carefully whether he cannot a little
bit specially pay (have asked about 16 - EUR per day what would be
for him extremely günstiggewesen!). Derryl became irritating
immediately and meant, "This will not happen!!!" on which
we have further refused with the tractor to go. Derryl had snapped
shut and as a result has not talked just one weeks any more with us
to us!!!! During the days without tractor Martin then every day has
picked nearly one whole box more apples (what has put out then etwa
100 - EUR of Mehrverdienst in one week). With the Apfelplücken
we have become quick meanwhile also so quite substantially, we get,
nevertheless, meanwhile daily 13 - to pick 14 boxes converted 6.5to
- 7to apples (virtually a whole small vice fully). So now you have
divided all my tractor frustration, however, there is just away not
only to report the nice!
| Time not in the tent: In the
beginning we had considered to purchase to ourselves for the Apfelpflücksaison
a car to sleep in it and when has not clapped we wanted to sleep in
the tent. Then, however, anyhow we have decided to spend the night
here in an accomodation. For etwa 15 - EUR per person and week we
live for some weeks with a couple from Czechoslovakia now in a small
wooden house with 2 rooms, a communal kitchen and a bathroom. Meanwhile
we are really glad that we must not sleep in a car, in the evening
it is getting dark only few minutes after we stop to pick already
and to a car then it would have been restrained already a little bit.
Also in the meanwhile rather frequent rainy days we are more than
only happily with our small house. After a few weeks in a firm accomodation
it is hardly to be introduced, by the way, even for us that we have
slept the last 2.5 years almost permanently in the tent!
|149 + 153. Weekly report 03.04. - 07.05.2006
| Gigantic apple: Every now and then there
were gigantic apples. If I saw a so gigantic apple at the supermarket,
I would not purchase him absolutely, because I would think that he
is genetic-manipulated. However, this apple hung in midst normal apples
on a tree, together with the other both (the right one is as big as
a normal apple). No notion why the apples so differently are big,
but the big one is so big that I cannot enclose him with both hands.
Then in the stack house the apples are sorted out of course and all
gigantic apples come together to the box of the apples go in the USA.
| End of the apple season: After
we had already picked Cox orange, royal gala, Grany Smith and Braeburne
now only pink ladies had to be picked. Pink ladies are extremely sensitive
and receive very easily pressure points by too firm touching with
pick, or by too quick unloaded of the pocket in the box. Accordingly
not all Apfelpflücker might go on working (many have picked too
rough), however, we belonged to the happy four them might go on working.
We managed with the picking rather well. The apples were a little
presumably more robust this year, because we had the least pressure
points of the last years (presumably because the boss's head, from
us always only "Grandpa" or "Oppa" called quite
often came to see like we pick). On Tuesday the 5/2/2006 we picked
in the flowing out rain then the last apples. Almost we would not
have created it, because the ground was so slippery that Derryl with
the tractor is lubricated several times. Once Derryl has slided even
thus in the fence that he had to become of his brother with another
tractor again rausgezogen. Then, however, half an hour before sundown
the last apple was picked and the season was finished. The next evening
then we went of celebrating with Derryl in his favorite bar around
the seasonal conclusion! More interesting points a non-smoker's bar
of the local rugby association and hunting association. Here now the
conclusion statistics of our Apfelpflücksaison: Picked apples:
248.5 to, pears: 37 to. So much like on 7 fully charged trucks with
follower fits. In piece make about 1250000 apples. In total we have
earned thus about 7500 EUR, possibly so much like we have been economical
in total during the last 3 years!!!!!!!!
| Cap worked off: As already on
the bunch of grapes farm in New Zealand I have also worked off here
again a cap. Anyhow the Cappies are not apparently to work made.
| The beard leaves: As are already mentioned
the apples with any spray means treats on the reactions allergic I
has agreed. My whole forearms were reddened, and had pimples. At night
it sometimes itched so strongly that I could hardly sleep and there
were most my eyes so reddened that I looked like a zombie. To protect
me in the best way possible I have carried permanently a langärmeigen
pullover and have opened out the sunscreen flaps of my cap. Further
I have grown a beard to protect also my face in the best way possible.
After now the Pflücksaison past is Nadine insisted on the fact
that I shave off him again.
|Shave: Here a few snapshots from
shave. Wittily as different beard forms differently leave ausehen.
Would please me about a few comments to him passed away to beards
in the visitors' book. In particular if somebody does not find the
beards completely so bad as Nadine.
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