Patagonia: 10.01. - 04.04.2007
Translated by PROMT-Online-Translator
|Route: Tablespoon Chalten, tablespoon Calafate,
Puerto Natales, Puntas Arenas, Porvenir, Rio grandee, Ushuaia, Rio
grandee, Bahia azul, Puerto Natales, Puerto Montt
| In South Patagonia we have to cross so
often between Chile (Chile). and Argentinen (Argentina), that we have
decided to summarise Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego below under the
|Preface Patagonia: In total
we were about 5 months in Südpadayonien (about 4 months in the
Chilean share and one month in Argentine). Regional we have liked
Patagonia very well and also the otherwise so dreaded padayonische
wind has meant it very well with us. Nevertheless, a little bit disappointing
we thought that Patagonia neglects more and more to a riesen tourist
spectacle (Torres del Paine and the glacier Perito Moreno are there
the front runners). Under the little cloak "Patagonia" the
absolutely coated prices which stand in no relation to the compulsory
performances are often required the tourists here. Here in particular
in the Chilean share many smell the big deal and from the open hearty
auxiliary readiness of the Chileans which has impressed us in the
north of the country still so, is not often left any more a lot (the
Argentines are still substantially looser here and more inexpensive).
Clear these all-inclusive statements do not apply to everybody, however,
unfortunately, trends are very clear to recognise. Thanks to gigantic
luxurious hotel facilities and summer cotdayes in national parks,
4WD Lkwtouren, controlled day to travelling excursions, coach columns
they drive the all-inclusive tourists to directly before the glacier,
and, nevertheless... actually wild and impetuous Patagonia was tamed
very much. However, like an eagle sadly in his cage sits instead of
proudly by the winds to float, Patagonia has also lost his original
charm for us in many places, unfortunately.
|189. Weekly report II 10.01. - 1/14/2007
Route: Villa O'Higgins, Candelaria Mansilla, Lago Desierto, El
|The plan (Chile).: From villa O'Higgins
there is a possibility directly after tablespoon Chalten to travel
in Argentina. Because the border crossing is contained, nevertheless,
2 boat trips and a travelling tour this only for backpack traveller
and cyclist possibly. The first boat sdaye leads from villa O'Higgins
about the Lago O'Higgins after Candelaria Mansilla, the Chilean border
positions. After the crossing the border formalities are dealt with
it goes over Schotterstrasse about 16 km up to the real border. One
must push the next 6 km his wheel about a footpath, until one can
receive his entry stamp then in the Argentine border position. Afterwards
it goes by an other boat about the Lago Desierto before one the last
40 km to tablespoon Chalten can cycle. As far as the theory. Time
see like it is in practice.
| Glacier tour (Chile).: We decide on some
peso specially to come along on the way to the Chilean border position
with the offering an excursion to the Campo Hielo Sur. Although it
is stormy outside sit like almost de whole time on the upper deck
around the wonderful scenery better to be able to enjoy. The gigantic
ice field comes here even to directly to the lake, so that we admire
from the water the immense rock towers which can fall every second
in the floods. We have perfect weather and Hans Silva, the captain
of our boat takes a gigantic break, so that we can enjoy the spectacle
of nature in complete silence. There is even a round whisky with glacier
ice, however, we decline with thanks.
| Simply Blue (Chile).: The blue paint of
glacier ice is one of the amusing paints generally for me and thus
I am able to do myself in the icebergs then shining in the most great
blue tones which float here in the lake hardly sattsehen.
| Frame break (Chile).: Cut 200 m before
the in Chilean Argentine border Martin breaks all at once the frame,
namely not only kleinwenig, but equally properly (the whole back with
slice brake admission breaks completely out). Unfortunately we are
just on the place most unfavorable for a such damage on the whole
trip, because there is far and wide no street (or even cars). To come
to the next street we have to go only about the footpath to the Argentine
border position and afterwards by a boat about the Lago Desierto.
In principle so dramatically, nevertheless, we do not have a lot of
luggage and now we may presumably carry not only this but also the
bicycle. Mario has some Poxillina a kind coldly processable metal
with we try to connect the Rau-broken share again more or less with
the frame. Maybe we have luck and can push thus the wheel with very
| Travelling tour with bikes (Argentina).
: At 4:30 o'clock we become from the first storm gust, by the
narrow valley from Argentina to Chile is thundering woken up. Now
a storm gust comes at regular intervals ie the waves by the sea after
the others. We already hear from wide one the deep one rumble to the
next storm gust like they slowly the valley succeeds. Finally, with
an ear-deafening noise the gusts reach us and tear and pull in our
tent which they would best tear up. We fear an other tent stick that
to us breaks us so we sit bell-brightly awake in the tent and try
to support with every gust the linkage. In the short storm breaks
we try to dress, nevertheless, this lasts quite a while. Finally,
about 5:00 o'clock I leave the tent there the storm already the first
herrings from the ground has torn. I slacken the tent a little better
and start to pack with it de bicycles. Also this lasts longer than
commonly, because I support the tent from the outside over and over
again. Finally, we get to diminish it the tent and to pack without
having suffered a damage, however, now we must collect first of all
again our empty panniers which the wind has scattered in all directions.
Now after a short breakfast in a small shelter from branches the next
adventure begins: the 6-km-long footpath to the Argentine border position.
The footpath itself is not so bad at all, however because he is not
maintained at all we had to heave in particular at the beginning with
many crosswise lying trees about we our bikes and to fight some brook
crossings. Martin's repaired frame already breaks after few metres,
so that we must pack even more luggage into our backpacks; at least
can be pushed the empty wheel still more or less. For the first 1.5
kilometres we need nearly 1 hour, however, bit by bit the way becomes
a little better, although the whole still remains a heavy work. Then
on the last kilometre we receive help of Laura and Ado, to an Italian
couple that has brought his easily bepackten wheels already to the
border and now comes back to help us (we have cooked to you in the
eve what to dinner, because they had no more gas for her cooker any
more and have puck up, hence, also immediately no right dinner and
also our sandwich we have shared with them). At last we have mastered
the 6-km-long sdaye then, however, after 3 hours!
| Nice descent (Argentina).: At least the
last kilometre up to the Argentine border position is really funny.
The departure leads by stamped out horse paths and is partially so
narrow, that the back wheel pockets just thus durchpassen. Necessity
is the mother of invention and in this special Hockstellung one can
stay down even on the wheel during the feet on the edge of the channel
| Unexpected solutions (Argentina).
: Already before, or during the boat trip about the Lago Desierto
then some unexpected solutions. Already in the eve have explained
to us Laura and Ado that they leave her bikes in tablespoon Chalten
(Laura for overweight reasons her bike wanted to leave even directly
on the border if the footpath had been too hard) and thus they offer
to me that I simply one of her wheels could have! On the boat crossing
Mario with a gendarme gets into conversation and finds out in such
a way that Ernesto of the boat owners comes, actually, from the 270
km lain Calafate and goes even today there. Mario appeals immediately
also to Ernesto and at last we have the perfect solution: Ernesto
takes my bicycle directly with to Calafate (where we still want) where
we can pick up it in 2 weeks with him at home. Moreover, he takes
our luggage as well as Nadine with after tablespoon Chalten (37 km)
there we not everybody on a wheel can cycle. Then in tablespoon Chalten
receive I an old bike of Laura and Ado with I then at least to Calafate
can cycle. Incredibly, however, thus hopelessly the situation still
in the eve seemed so simple and uncomplicated now the solution is
virtually like by itself has proved. Over again quite hearty thanks
to to Mario, Laura and Ado and Ernesto.
| The new bike (Argentina).: Here I receive
just my new bike of Laura of the previous owner. Up to now I have
never given to my bicycles though name, however, I have christened
this spontaneously "pink panther". Now on pink panther I
will presumably cycle to Puerto Natales where I hopefully receive
a new frame for my old bike (my bike has because a Lebensdlange guarantee).
If my old wheel is fit again then I will keep after a new owner for
pink panthers a lookout. Although the pink flash has no fitted with
springs front wheel fork and also already some kilometres under it
has he drives himself very nicely. Merely the narrow col and the conventional
circuit a little bit needs getting used to,
| El Chalten (Argentina): El Chalten the
starting point to explore the mountain world of the national park
Parque lot Glariares with so famous mountains as Fitz Roy and Cerro
Torre. Already in the first evening we have luck, because after sundown
it clears up suddenly and we can catch a view at the mountain range.
|190. Weekly report 15/01-21-01/2007
Route: El Chalten
| Mt. Fitz Roy (Argentina).: With his 3405
m Fitz Roy is the highest mountain here in the area. In principle
3405 m are not so high at all, however because the mountain chain
here rises directly from the padayonischen step it looks absolutely
imposing. We want to explore the Parque Nacional lot Glaciares a little
closer and thus we start with Mario to a 6-day trekking tour.
| Glacier lake (Argentina).: We enjoy this
marvellous view of the Fitz Roy with a cup of fresh tea from the Laguna
Piedras Blancas into which Glaciar Piedras Blancas is coming down
and with foating icebergs. Because my words do not manage to describe
the breathtaking beauty I would like to ask everybody to come here,
at least once!
| Sunrise from the sleeping-bag (Argentina).:
The best sunrise for Fitz Roy would be seen of course from the
Laguna De los Tres. However, from our camp site it is a one-hour walk
to the view point and that meant that we would already have had to
march off at 5:00 o'clock and this is too early of course for me.
So we simply start shortly after 6:00 o'clock and could admire thus
Morning-red from our sleeping-bags.
| Laguna De los Tres (Argentina).: After
the first morning-red breakfast we first of all comfortably and then
I come along in hope for a few nice photos on the trek to the lagoon
De los Tres. Already in the eve we were together up here, however
because the the sun was directly behind the Fitz Roy it was not possible
to take photos, but we have enjoyed the view still in full trains.
This was witty as the large part of the day tourists were already
on the way home and so a crafty fox appeared and examined the area
several times for food leftovers. Now in the morning I am almost alone
up here and instead of the cracks and crash the glacier nothing is
to be heard. And this is quite unusual, because here the wind ordinarily
blows quite a lot, however, today it is so calm that the mountains
are reflected the Laguna de los Tres.
| Mountain view (Argentina).: We are really
lucky because we can see Fitz Roy already since 3 days which is pretty
unusual. As Mario was here the last time she has seen him never the
whole time. The highest mountain is Fitz Roy and to the left follow
Cerro Poincenot, Cerro Rafael and Antoine Saint Exupery (named after
the author of the "Little Prince").
| Rope bridge (Argentina).: When we in the
Campground with the Cerro Torre view cloudes move in and so therewe
can see the imposing mountain only up to half. The next day a small
sand storm surprises us what to the result has nearly all our zippers
in the tent made big problems. We want to see Cerro Torre, nevertheless,
completely and so we decide that Mario and Nadine go back to El Chalten
to buy new food. The next morning we again have a good view. We meet
Falk, a climber from Dresden who unfortunately found no climbing partner
for Cerro Torre. However, he has lent us kindly a climbing belt and
a rope and thus we can cross the glacier river to reach to the Glaciar
Torre. To have not all day tourists on the glacier there are because
only 2 tense ropes with the help of those one must cross the river.
| Cerro Torre (Argentina). : Cerro Torre
is the highest mountain on the photo (on the right follow Cerro Egger
and Cerro standard), and although he is only 3102 m high he counts
with his ice cap to one of the most popular climbing trophies. Climbing-technically
this gigantic granite rock would not be difficult at all (7-), however,
the extreme weather conditions, in particular the Patagonian wind,
as well as the ice-overcast summit make the climb quite extreme. The
history of his first ascent is quite dramatic. First Cerro Torre was
first climbed by Maestri and Egger, nevertheless, on the descent Egger
fell to death. Because he had the camera with the summit photo Maestri
could prove the summit success to nobody. Presumably because nobody
wanted to believe him he despaired and so Maestri came back in the
middle of the 70th armed with a compressorll and drilled himself virtually
up to the summit. Now officially he was the first one at the summit,
however, his method called of course again many critics (and envious
people) on the plan.
| Sunrise of Laguna Capri (Argentina).:
Next morning we had again a wonderful view of the Cerro Torre
with cloudless sky and then we went to the Laguna Capri, the last
camp site in the park we had not attended yet. Although purely tent-technically
of the Campamento Laguna Capri is not so nice it compensated us, thanks
to the mountain panorama with sunrise next morning!
| Camping in the outskirts (Argentina).:
As if we had not admired the mountains already enough we pitch our
tent after we came back from our trekking tour, on the free camp site
in the southern edge of town of tablespoon Chalten. This time we could
see from our tent virtually all summits, for which we also accepted
with pleasure the neighborhood of all the luxury campers.
|1191. Weekly report 22/01-28/01/2007
Route: El Chalten, Calafate, Perito Moreno, Puerto Natales
| Gigantic sdayes (Argentina).: Our next
destination in Argentina is of the Perito Moreno a glacier. However,
from tablespoon Chalten from there are for which we on the Carretera
Austral 6-7 days would have needed. Although we in Argentina predominantly
tarred road find we expect by the famous padayonischen hoists no really
better making headway and thus we are completely surprised when we
cycle in the first day with hardly wind already 157 km. Pink Panter
has no Lowrider and thus Nadines bike bepackt is like a load donkey,
which is why we exchange after few kilometres of bicycles (occasionally
we have still lost briefly our photo, have found again thanks to the
help of a Lkw-Fahres, however). Also in the second day we cycle more
than 100 km and thus we stand absolutely unexpectedly already in the
late morning of the third day in the Perito Moreno!
| Perito Moreno (Argentina).: Ventisquero
Perito Moreno is one of few permanently growing glaciers on the earth
and flows from the Campo Hielo Sur into the Lago Argentino. Because
he is simply to be reached by coach and on account of his pure size
impress absolutely, the glacier is of course of one of the most popular
tourist attractions of Argentina (if not even most popular). When
we arrive are already 10-20 coaches and many small Shuttelbusse on
the completely zugeparkten parking bay. What has become from the lonesome
rest of the Carretera Austral? While I it get to fade out the tourist
masses, nevertheless, Nadine is quite irritated. In particular the
conversations some of the German all-inclusive tourists of middle
age who speak at the sight of the glacier rather about the figure
problems of the other Reisegruppenmittglieder look bewildering on
| He lives (Argentina).: The 5-km-wide and
up to 60-m-high glacier front pushes steadily on the Lago Argentino
and every few years she comes so far forwards that she reaches about
the Canal de loose Tèmpanos up to the other shore and cuts
off the Brazo Rico of the rest of the lake. Then the hydraulic pressure
of the Brazo Rico increases so long, until he the ice to crack brings
and to the Canal opens de loose Tèmpanos in an immense spectacle
of nature again (Last in 2004). But as for the rest is of the Perito
Moreno no dull journeyman. Constant ones crash, crack and the masses
of ice creak. At regular intervals gigantic pieces of the ice front
break off and fall in the icy floods what tempts then even the chattiest
visitors into a short speech break. Earlier one might still run along
the bank way, however because, besides, too many visitors were killed
by the falling ice lumps now this is not allowed any more.
| Padayonische steppe and Puerto Natales
(Argentina + Chile.): We use a one-day compulsive break in tablespoon
Calafate with flowing out rain around Martin's bike with Ernesto to
pick up and to send by coach cargo to Puerto Natales. Fresh recovered
cycle we link up with unusually few wind by the Padayonische steppe
direction Puerto Natales again. We are much faster than expected and
we were not allowed to introduce too many fresh food including to
Chile again, so that we whip Turbio (30 km before Puerto Natales)
our tent in the afternoon of the 2nd day shortly before Rio. The next
morning then we cycle to Puerto Natales where we hope for our friend
to meet UFO to us wants to attend here. Nevertheless, unfortunately,
he has received no flight and wants to try to attend it at the beginning
of March over again to us. Nothing holds us in the town and the next
day thus we set off again.
| Difunta Correa (Chile).: The Difunta Correa
is a famous patron saint in Argentina. Argentina received her "saint's
status" as them in north west the Difunta Corea dies of thirst
in the desert found during her baby still in her breast sucked and
thus survived. Particularly with truck to drivers in she particularly
likes. It are recognizable the altar to her memory they have been
established in many water bottles the pilgrims for them leave behind
to thank thus for the protection and the guided tour.
| Guanaco (Argentina + Chile.): With us under the Überbegriff
llama famously there are in South America, actually, 4 different subspecies.,
On the one hand, the domesticated llamas and alpacas. While the robust
llamas as pack animals and as a supplier for coarse wool serve the
alpacas more difficultly to be held are famous in particular for her
fine wool. The wild llama kinds are the Vicuñas and Guanacos.
The threatened Vicuña lives in the more than situated 4000-m-high
plateaus between Peru and the north Argentina and was the exclusive
property the Inca kings and was protected therefore (the Spaniards
have decimated it then, however, within half a century of 2 millions
on 10000!) . The living space of the Guanaco reaches from the central
Andes to Tierra del Fuego and in particular here in the padayonischen
steppe one can still find big teams. The rust-coloured Guanacos have
got used meanwhile well to the motor traffic, however whenever they
to us cyclist see they take the flight. The pasture fences of the
gigantic Estancias jump over them, besides, with an elegant jump as
if they were only few centimetres high.
| Ñandu (Badly. + Chile.): Even shier one than
the Guanacos are Ñ andus, straußenartige steppe birds
to the Australian emu to mistake look similar. However, after a few
days it is to be made to us successfully a more or less tolerable
| Heinz Stücke (Chile).: Who is still
of the opinion that we make something unusual, those will teach the
following history absolutely of a better one. 40 km to the south of
Puerto Natales we hit on Heinz Stücke. Heinz Stücke is left
for in August, 1960 at the age of 20 years with his 3 walks bicycle
to explore the world. Now, more than 500,000 km and 47 years later
he is on the move still, although he has exchanged his first bicycle
in 2004 for a lighter folding wheel. Particularly his modest fun-loving
kind which resist he or just because of all unusual experiences he
collecting was allowed (or also had to go) had, we found impressing
very much. Faster than we and have provided we us during 2 hours by
the roadside maintained and there it already slowly starts to dawn
we say goodbye and a few more kilometres cycle.
| Break place (Chile).: Though in Chile
there is everywhere coach small house we always with pleasure are
of use around break to make, however, they are nowhere as nice as
here below between Puerto Natales and Puntas Arenas.
|192. Weekly report 29.01. - 2/4/2007
Route: Rio Verde, Punta Arenas, Feuerland, Porvenir,
| Two seas (Chile).: To the Estancia
directly situated in the Seno Skyring Rio Verde we come even as about
5500 sheep be floated in a fence. The gigantic Schafherde by three
Gauchos and her dogs easily in the fence are piloted, looks similarly
endless and moved like the sea in the background
| A Selection (Chile).: As all sheep in
the fence are the Gauchos start to sort out with it a few unmarked
sheep from the herd. While one of the Gauchos with sure eye and quick
hand a sheep after other herausfischt his both colleagues work rather
like a little bit awkward child, this tries to catch his favorite
cat what he only manages at last because the cat, finally, arouse
pity has and simply stops. We talk during that to the Jefe of the
Estancia. He wants to know why we find something so everyday interesting
and when we him say there we such a big Schafherde have never seen
he smiles proudly.
| The Padayonische wind (Chile).:
Though the wind in Patagonia is famous infamous, and many trees
are dumb witnesses of his unbelievable strength, however, we have
remained spared from him up to now as much as possible. It was always
a little bit windy during the last days though, however, mostly not
more badly than with us at home in Germany. Still we had to experience
every now and then the pleasure him in full strength then, nevertheless,
luckily we mostly did not sit on the bicycle. While we the photo make
though it is windy, but not is windy especially worth mentioning.
| The families Menèndez and
brown (Chile).: At the end of the 19th century there came the
families Menèndez, brown, Nogueira to Patatgonien and in the
course of the years have built up them here a gigantic sheep empire,
ship kind empire and commercial empire. Fortunately, they have fallen
in love into each other so there after several weddings the Menèndez
brown clan originated. The clan did not hide his wealth and Palacio
Mauricio Braun could stand just somewhere in England. Nevertheless,
no miracle, everything was virtually imported by the marble of the
bathrooms up to the wood of the Wandvertäfelungen from overseas.
Überbleibsel of the former empire are even today the Fährgesellschaft
NAVIMAG and the supermarket chain LA ANONIMA.
| Mausoleums (Chile).: As well as in the
life so celebrated the big families her wealth also after the death
in them can be built mausoleums for which even a king would not have
to be ashamed. The tomb of Josè Menèndez should be (on
the left), by the way, a smaller imitation of Vittorio Emanuele in
Rome (who may always have been Vittorio Emanuele also).
| Cemeter high rise (Chile).:
Nevertheless, the highest buildings on the cemetery have not remained
the mausoleums of the monetary nobility separate are the commemorative
tables right at several levels of the normally mortal ones which almost
work like a big residential layout.
| Motorcycle (Chile). : From Punta Arenas
we want with the ferry after Tierra del Fuego and shortly after ourselves
a team of motorcyclists in the boat investor arrives. Hardly arrived
his motorcycle already chucks first and while to him 2 colleagues
help the motorcycle to raise again another team member simply falls
down and load on the back. Afterwards there is not a big discussion
whether the helmet with the fall possibly could be damaged. Apparently
the team of losses is usually then another driver already hobbles
with crutches by the area. Although all panniers have they have one
more accompanying coach for which also always). As one of the drivers
Nadine responds she finds out that the team from the USA is and has
shipped her motorcycles to South America to go during four weeks through
Patagonia. OK. the motorcyclists have not appeared from her very best
side, however, her average age lies already more than 60 and thus
a motorcycle tour about the partly rough grit runways in windy, cold
and rainy Patagonia is a respectable performance.
| Tierra del Fuego: The campfires of the
Yahgan Indian inspired with her campfires the first Europeans to the
name to Tierra del Fuego. Separated by the Magellansche street of
the American mainland Tierra del Fuego encloses an area is possibly
so big as passes Ireland and from a big main island and several small
islands. Chile and Argentina divide the island one safely as the end
of the "inhabitable" world can call, then one further travels
in the south only Antarctic comes. While the north of Tierra del Fuego
is rather level and steppe-like there are in the south mountains,
glaciers and from moss overcast woods. One of the most famous explorers
of Tierra del Fuego was absolutely Charles Darwin who was here with
his expedition on the beagle (name of the ship) before the theory
of evolution of the world public presented arms.
| Indian's statue on Tierra del Fuego
(Chile).: Indian's statue of a Feurlandindianers merely in a Guanaco
fur is dressed what he carries the soft fur outwardly on. "The
animals carry the fur, finally, also outside!" . Also otherwise
the Indians of Tierra del Fuego were hard boiled fellows. While the
Selk'nam and the Hausch in country lived were the Yahgans and the
Alakalufes canoe nomads. Their canoes manufactured them either from
hollow trunks or, however, from a wooden rack which they have dressed
up with bark. With this simple equipment they survived on the fjord
and canals around Tierra del Fuego, one of the most inhospitable regions
generally. Although the canoes work very fragile had on them permanently
a small fire in burn around the at least children a little to warm.
On the first explorers the Indians of Tierra del Fuego remaining even
if left no good impression. The Indians described known personalities
like Maggellan, Fitz Roy and Charles Darwin as the most pathetic creatures
on earth and were of the opinion that they would be related closer
the animals than the people. Unfortunately, the Indians became itself
here since thousands of years optimally to the harsh living conditions
had adapted by the arrival of the wise man within less years nearly
extinctly. Cattle barons shot them there them the sheep robbed and
many were reeducated by the Salesinerorden to good Christians. Unfortunately
the Indians got an infection the monks because in the clothes introduced
by the Europeans in them demanded with illnesses for them were deadly.
Today there should be no more pedigree Tierra del Fuego Indian!
| Ozone hole (Chile).: Because the ozone
hole at the moment quite exactly over our heads is is not to be joked
with the sun here. We take seriously the local warnings, go langärmelig
and carry cap and sunglasses!
| Cyclist's hut (Chile).: After a strenuous
morning with the self-light tail wind this cycle on the streets made
soft by the rain not made easier we are pleased for our lunch break
to find a nice small hut. The hut is presumably the only firm hiding
place between Porvenir and Rio grandee and thus several cyclists have
unterpositioned themselves here already before the moody weather as
many wall subscriptions know how to report.
| Flamingo (Chile).: For me to heard flamingos
either in zoos or somewhere in the warm regions of this earth. Though
I had none exactly image where the flamingos (except in zoos) then
now, nevertheless, would live in Patagonia I would not have supposed
them. However, it comes even better, because we have found these flamingos
on Tierra del Fuego. Nevertheless, the wind raved the rose birds stood
in all peace of mind in a level lake and resisted the forces of nature
during it in such a way attacked that I difficulties had to hold the
| Only fly is nicer (Chile. + Argentina):
Shortly before the border to Argentina we receive all at once
really good tail wind and we fly off only thus. Between both border
positions between Chile and Argentina traditiosgemäß, as
usual some kilometres apart lie (up to now always 10 to 40 km) the
wind increases over again a tooth, so that we become quicker and quicker.
We must not even trample several kilometres any more and thus we reach
on the grit runway even a maximum speed from 48 km/h on graden without
trample!!! Nevertheless, unfortunately the street makes a crease to
the right after a lot too few kilometres, so that from the nice tail
wind all at once side wind becomes.
| Windbreak (Argentina).: As a tail wind
the padayonische wind was a with pleasure seen guest, nevertheless,
now on the camp site search in the bald steppe of Tierra del Fuego
good council is expensive. Nevertheless, finally, we have luck and
find a house ruin in we our tent protected before the wind can be
193. Weekly report 05.02.- 11.02.2007
Route: Rio Grande, Ushuaia
|Winter burglary: The wind means it leniently
with us and there he mostly from at an angle behind comes we make
headway again well. However, shortly before Ushuaia it will creep
away uncomfortable and thus we to us only 35 km of the town on a picnic
place in our tent. The next day the temperatures sink furthermore
and thus become from the showers freezing rain showers. Nevertheless,
the ground is still warm more or less, so that, unfortunately, nothing
remains lying. Nevertheless, in our tent it is quite fresh and thus
we muffle up ourselves in our sleeping-bags. Then after a little bit
cold rest day we cycle in light rain weather the last kilometres southwards,
against the most southern point of our trip.
|Ushuaia: Ushuaia, with about 50000 inhabitants
the "most southern town" of the earth lies with the south
edge of Tierra del Fuego. More to the south Williams, a settlement
on the Chilean island Navarino offshore in the south and some research
stations lie only Puerto in Antarctic. Theirs Long at the southern
end of South America, as well as her nearness to Antarctic make Ushuaia
a very much popular tourist destination. Here there are, on the one
hand, the camper drivers, motorcyclists and cyclists who have arrived
after the coping of the Panameikana from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego
at the end of her trip. However, here on the other hand there are
also the a little wealthier tourists who have specially flown from
Europe, Japan or the USA here to take part in an Antarctic cruise.
The latter are economical on her 2-week vacation presumably in in
8000, - $US and differ therefore already substantially from the other
tourists (last minute bargain for an Antarctic tour there is, by the
way, already from 3000, - to have $US). Witty proofs have not calculated
many of the well-to-do Antarctic adventurers on it that it could be
cold here below and in particular in Antarctic and thus they populate
the well equipped Outdoorläden around rain jackets to purchase
rain trousers, Fleecepullis, caps and gloves. The local proprietors
are pleased about so much naivety. Because Nadine never wanted, actually,
to Patagonia and already not at all after Tierra del Fuego and, hence,
Martin would have been contented already with it if we had cycled
to Puerto Natales, Ushuaia never stood properly on our itinerary.
While for other (in particular those they have come here of Alaska)
Ushuaia the long desired destination of her trip is we do not know,
actually, at all exactly what we want here. Exact said we ask ourselves
who have bitten wild Watz to us then, because we must cycle now again
750 km back to Puerto Natales (and presumably with predominantly headwind).
The weather is bad and thus we recover a few days in the camping site
wonderfully situated above the town from whose dining-room we have
a marvellous view at the beagle Canal.
|The beagle Canal: The beagle Canal separates
Tierra del Fuego from the offshore Chilean island Navarino. Then a
little bit more to the south lie the islands them than cape horn are
known. We also cape horn the beagle Canal was named so also after
a ship. The beagle HMS was because the research vessel on the captain
Fitz Roy and Charles Darwin during several years Patagonia have explored.
|Glaciar Martial: The mountain chain directly
behind Ushuaia was called to honour of the famous sales representative
of the theory of evolution "Darwin to rank" and reaches
to immediately to the beagle Canal. In our guide a hike is particularly
recommended to the Martial glacier and thus we get on the way. The
first 7 km we can cycle from the city centre still on a good tarred
road. Here the real footpath which runs, nevertheless, under an armchair
lift along begins. At the end of the armchair lift it goes only by
a basin to the last precipitous increase for us to the glacier should
bring. After 1.5 hours from camping site we stand there where the
glacier should be, however, unfortunately, except a precipitous a
little spectacular snowy field we can see nothing. At least, the wonderful
view at Ushuaia and the beagle Canal compensates us for the strains.
194. Weekly report 12.02.- 18.02.2007
Route: Ushuaia, Rio Grande, Bahia Azul, Puerto Natales
| Retreat (Argentina).: Temperatures to
scarcely above the freezing point, freezing rain shower, rain and
him a lot of wind are summery to us here in Ushuaia, however, a little
bit not enough and thus we start the retreat. Our plan: Instead of
going back directly by the coach we want to cycle so long to ourselves
the wind so violently in the face blows that we cannot cycle any more.
If the wind is so strong that we do not want to be able to cycle any
more we only wait and if inevitably go on by hitchhikers. Thus it
comes that we are one of few cyclists who want to cycle Tierra del
| The wind catches up us (Argentina).:
After we have still had luck on the first both days, we have in
the third day all at once strong headwind from at an angle in front.
We can still cycle and thus we fight on to us. After 20 km we meet
2 French cyclists to whom the wind is too strong, actually, also a
little bit, and thus we form a four team. Everybody hides in the lee
of his person in front (or his front woman) and we change all 5 minutes
the leadership position. The big adview of our team is that nobody
wants to give itself the nakedness to break off and thus we courageously
fight on to us to us at last even to Rio grandee create. While the
French here on the camping site check in we cycle a few more kilometres
farther and build up, finally, after 85 cycled kilometres our tent.
| No bikes (Argentina).: Unfortunately,
in the Argentine border position bicycles are not allowed in in the
waiting room. How many cyclists have probably already spent the night
in in the room with bike, before the sign was hung up? We at least
still use fast the free shower which there is here on the border before
we to us again on the wheels swing.
| Protective hut (Chile).: Now because of
fear of the padayonischen hoists we always try to play it safe and
this time thus we have crept away in a small shepherd's hut. The hut
was so big just that we have fitted by our bicycles, however, this
time the expected storm was missing.
| mattnetion mines (Chile).: In the 80th
Chile and Argentina stood shortly before a war, because they could
not agree more than 2 small islands before Tierra del Fuego about
her possession claims. Both Erzkatholischen nations at that time merely
could be stopped by an Apell of the pope! However, since then one
can hit in Chilean Patagonia once again on mine fields!
| Headwind (Chile).: After 2 other days
with more or less tail wind we have created it already almost to Bahia
Azul from where we want to leave Tierra del Fuego with the driving.
Nevertheless, 20 km before the landing sdaye the wind suddenly overturns
and blows us fully in the face. Laboriously we struggle the last kilometres
up to the ferry, cross the Magellan street and build up in the next
bushes our tent. The next morning still there rules stormy headwind
and thus we insert a rest day. On the day after the next it still
attacks and thus we decide first to 13 km of lain crossroads to cycle
to go from there then by hitchhikers to Puerto Natales. For 13 km
about 2 hours need and after we have serviced only one brief hour
an Argentine picks up us, finally.
| Desertion (Chile). : Though we do not
know yet exactly who has cooked up the flight plans, however, as a
Nadines cogs and so completely only pink panthers on the loading area
of the pickup truck lay they apparently wanted to use the favour of
the hour for the flight. In short: with about 110 km/h both wheels
have suddenly flown away in the high curve! We already feared two
total losses, however, both deserters are harder in taking than we
thought. Nadines cogs has only one completely twisted driver and the
front Achsschraube is half polished, while pink panther has only one
twisted switch eye, an across-standing driver and bad Abschürfungen
in the col. The Argentines want to Punta Arenas and thus they stop
and in the putting on one side to Puerto Natales. Here, fortunately,
there is a small desolate hut in we to us creep away around the damages
to our wheels at least as a makeshift to direct. We can just bend
the switch eye of pink panther directly again more or less, nevertheless,
for the driver we need a big fork wrench. We can conceal the Sattelabschürfungen
with a col cover, nevertheless, Nadines wheel needed a new driver.
There we have got away just still with a blue eye, even if the whole
action was completely unnecessary of course. Ordinarily we lash the
wheels always firmly, however, this time we wanted to detain the nice
drivers no longer (they have off-loaded because at the crossroad another
cyclist and and then have puck up). Then with the driving we have
still seen that the wind has raised every now and then the front wheels
something, however, we thought that this already holds.
| Thank you!!!! (Chile). : We spend the
night in the hut and because it still attacks the next morning and
the driver is bent in Nadines bike very strongly we decide to go over
again by hitchhikers. We neutralise ourselves to the street and there
it extremely and it is windy we creep away in a coach hut. Every time
if a car comes, nevertheless, we jump on the street and keep out our
thumbs. There is Pickup's which could pick up us reichtlich, however,
after 3 hours slowly dawns to us that the Chileans feel no inclination
to pick up hitchhiker. Today is Sunday and because we hope that it
on Monday maybe some truck driver gives want to pick up us I ask in
the subtended resting place for water. With the grounds that the water
tank blank is, nevertheless, I am sent away a little bit unkindly
again. Funnily shortly before they have watered still during half
an hour with a gigantic water hose the trees! Nevertheless, without
water we cannot remain one more day here so we try to stop ourselves
furthermore a car. After 5 hours of vain waiting, merely tiny Fiat
has stopped, finally, we surrender. Nadine stops the first coach and
thus we are for 15 EUR of two hours later then again in Puerto Natales.
|195. Weekly report 19.02.- 25.02.2007
Route: Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine
| Where are the boats? (Chile): We had read
in the guide that one can also make a very nice kayak tour in the
Torres del Paine park. Unfortunately, the organizers ask about 500,
- $US to 800,- US$ per person for a 2-day tour what is even not possible
with our budget for 2 months. Precisely at the moment I found in the
Internet the site of a company from Alaska who produces really light
Raftboate (alpackaraft.com). Thus we have sent at the beginning of
the year an email to the company in which we told about our trip and
asked whether they could not make any special offer to us. And then
they made this to us! 2 demonstration boats for less than half the
price and of course we accepted immediately. Thus we have now 2 Packrafts,
2 split paddles, repair material and 2 watertight bags for about 900,
- $US; this is less than a 2-day tour!
| Armada de Chile (Chile): Back from Punta
Arenas we pack gear for our small paddle expedition and cycle with
our bikes on a side street to Torres del Paine Nationalpark. In Puerto
Natales we had found out, that to paddle on Rio Serrano one needs
a licence from the armada de Chile (Chilean navy) which also prescribes
a minimum of security equipment. The necessary security equipment
(wetsuit, life jacket, water pump, lifeline, life jackets and trill
whistle) we had already got ourselves and now we needed merely the
signature of the responsible marine in the national park (thus at
least the information). When we ask the park management after the
armada de Chile they send us to the Cabaña del the armada which
turns out, to be a holiday cotdaye. We ask at a neighbouring hotel
for the naval base and get send to the base of the company for the
Zodiaktrips (Zodiak's are big engine-pursued rubber dinghies). From
there we are directed to a company that runs kayak tours and, finally,
we land in the house of Luis Segundo who has a shuttle service in
the park and should know know the park like his vest pocket. But also
to Luis and his wife the base of the armada de Chile is unknown and
he radios the park management, also unsuccessfully. Finally, Luis
means about us: "Do have her your equipment?", "If
so then do not get fooled from the armada de Chile and simply go without
licence. Nobody checks here anyhow!" We do not want to cycle
again back to Puerto Natales and thus we decide to go without licence.
We leave behind our bicycles in the shed of Luis and thus nothing
more stands to our boat tour now really in the way.
| Inflating the boats (Chile): Our
boats weigh about 2.5 kg and have the same measure like a small 2-people
tent. Accordingly the air pump should not be also gigantic of course.
A little bit doubtfully we are already as the pump turned out to be
a big bag with a valve. The principle is very simple: Screw the valve
into the boat and afterwards open the bag on top and let air get inside.
Close bag on top and press air simply into the boat. Then with a smaller
valve one can blow a little bit more air in the boat until it is absolutely
filled. Hardly to believe but the boat is inflated after 3 minutes.
| The trip starts(Chile): The whole morning
it was very windy and, actually, we did not think that we could padde
today, however, in the afternoon the wind calms down all at once,
and thus we go on Rio Serrano. The current is strumg and thus we can
enjoy in complete silence the magnificent view of the Cuernos.
| Refreshment? (Chile): The weather
and in particular the wind is absolutely unpredictable in Patagonia
and thus we had to fight all at once with strong headwind and side
hoists. Like all inflatable boats alos our packrafts offer a very
big surface to the wind, what is naturally also the weak spot of our
boats down here. The equipment packed on top on the boats still increases
the wind attack region. Suddenly comes one of the famous Patagonian
blasts of wind and so Nadine capsized and Nadine swims all at once
in the icy floods. While Nadine swims to the shore I try to catch
the boats which gets blown away from the wind. When I have it finally
I hang exactly between the current and an eddy and because the wind
still blows stormily and as I´m holding Nadines boat with one
hand I have big trouble (to paddle with a hand is impossible with
the wind). Finally, I tying successfully Nadines boat to mine and
thus I paddle to the shore. OK. the wind was really quite violent,
however, the cause for Nadines excursion into the water was supposed
once again "the small prince", who like we know already
loves the water. "The small prince" was in Nadine jacket
pockets and presumably had again a desire for a refreshing bath. Unfortunately,
the both with her bath excursion have lost Nadines cap which has already
protected her since Syria against the sun.
|196. Weekly report 26.02.- 04.03.2007
Route: Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales
| Pordaye (Chile): The next day it is rainy
and stormy and thus we insert first of all a rest day. Though in the
next day it is rainy furthermore and is not quite warm with 6°C,
however, the wind has lain down something and thus we come along again
on the way. Faster than expected we do not come to the waterfalls
of Rio Serrano and as we are nor very experiennced white-water paddlers
we carry our boats simply around the waterfalls. With our folding
Canadian it would have becomeone sudorific 2-hour action , nevertheless,
now we simply take the boats with luggage onto our shouldeer and walk
to the other side :-)
| Small hike (Chile): An excursion to the
Lago Tyndall was impossible because of strong winds, but we still
want to see the Lago Geike. Thus we desinflate our boats at an Estancia,
pack everything into our backpacks and hike 10 km to the glacier lake
with the most icebergs in Patagonia.
| Icebergs (Chile): Just the sight of the
gigantic icebergs is already a spectacle of nature for itself, however,
the small ice lumps are getting moved from the wind permanently and
hit each other, so that they ring like thousands of Christmas little
| Mucky weather (Chile): The next morning
after a quiet night we have cold and rainy weather again. Because
our tent is packed already we search protection under our boats and
hope for a weather improvement.
| To paddles with icebergs (Chile):
After just 1 hour the showers thin out and the sun comes out a
bit. We use the favour of the hour and proceed on the water around
the amusing world from ice and water from our boats to explore.
| Rio Geike: (Chile): We paddle between
the icebergs for 1 hour before we start to make our way back to Rio
Serrano. But this time instead of on foot by boat over Rio Geike.
We pack our equipment on the boats and try to paddle through the labyrinth
of ice at the river mouth. The complete way is often obstructed and
while Martin pushes the ice lumps apart and squeezes trough them.
Nadine chooses the walk over the land (she fears that the ice could
cut open the boats). Finally, we reach the beginning of Rio Geike
which is exiting for Nadine because of his strong current and some
rapids . The water, however, was a little bit too cold "for the
small prince" with his last bath excursion, and so he stays with
Nadine in the boat.
| Martin's birthday (Chile): To
see as in the picture I receive for my birthday an Argentine Mate
teacup. The tea powder of the strong herbal tea comes into the cup
which is a hollow fruit, and then hot water is poured into it. The
brew is drunk by a special straw with a sieve at the bottom, so that
one does not drink the herbs. The tea is bitter and very strong to
drink, however, we like it.
| Rio Serrano (Chile): The last sdaye on
Rio Serrano is according to the map the longest, however, the current
is so strong that we arrive at quite fast at the place where the river
flows, finally, into the "Fjord of the last hope".
| Glaciar Serrano (Chile): Due to strong
west wind the fjord has properly whipped up. Around the wind susceptibility
of our boats knowingly we rather decide to take no risk, cancel the
trip over the fjord to the glacier and instead, admire him and the
rainbow from a safe spot.
| Way home (Chile): To go back to our bicycles
now a 2-day walk approaches us. We stow away our whole equipment with
the boats in our backpacks and make us on the march the Pueblito Serrano.
Differently than the footpaths in the national park Torres del Paine
this footpath is nearly not used and thus the path ends now and again
in some marshes which we may cross. In the late afternoon of the second
day we are again back and while Martin cycles back to Puerto Natales
the next day to pick up Birte, a friend to us who comes to visit us,
Nadine remains in the national park.
| Packrafting (Chile): Apart from the problem
with very strong winds, which is so annoying only here in Patagonia,
we are absolutely happy with our Packrafts. Not only the fact that
one can see with the boats places which are very remote (e.g., Lago
Geike), but also the slightly stack measure and weight and as well
the good paddle qualities could persuade us completely. In particular
if one packs his luggage in the front on the boat, the boats have
an astonishingly good straight outlet. Unexpectedly we also found
that the boats are relatively quick, and not so slow like many other
|197. Weekly report 05.03.- 11.03.2007
Route: Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine
| Birte comes for visit (Chile).:
Birte and Martin were working together as trainers in a high rope
course. Birte made a quick decision to visit us at Torres del Paine
in Patagonia (just 5 weeks before takeoff I have written to her that
now a favorable opportunity was). Unfortunately, the airline LAN Chile
thaught, that it was a good idea to leave Birtes luggage a little
longer in Santiago and thus she arrived only a day later than planned.
Though Birte is heavily packed, however, actually, most new equipment
is for us: the long desired spare frame, a new rain jacket for Martin,
new windbreakers...) .
| By coach and boat into the park
(Chile).: By the airline we already lacked a day and thus we decided
to go not only by the coach sonder still with a catamaran directly
to in the middle of the park to be able to use Birtes valuable time
optimally. Then in the Lago Peoe Nadine awaited us and twe came along
on the way in the Valle del Frances.
| Valle del Frances (Chile).: After we had
spent our first night in the Campamento Britannico the next morning
we enjoyed the wonderful morning mood surrounden from mountaintops.
At 10:30h we had finished our extensive breakfast, just on time, before
all those that had spent the night below in the valley arrived.
| Lot Cuernos (Chile).: The probably most
imposing rock formation in Torres del Paine are the Los Cuernos (horns).
Particularly in the play of the morning sun with the clouds the bright
rocks with the dark points look especially impressive.
| Lunch break (Chile).: Lunch break on the
way from the Campamento Cuernos to the Campamento Torres. As with
all travelling tours we have in our thermos jug hot water. 1 litre
is exact enough to conjure a cup of tea and 2 lunches for 2 people.
After the water for the tea is teken out the noodles for our Asia
noodle snacks are filled in the thermos jug, so that they can stream.
If the tea is drunk the noodles are also ready, so that we pour them
in our bowls and stir the sauce powder in. Without using a stove we
have thus within a few minutes a hot drink and a warm meal what is
a luxury not to be underestimated (or a gigantic security aspect in
particular on cold, windy and rainy days, because one can cool down
very easily if one must unpack the stove to make a warm meal).
| Knee problems (Chile).: Then in the third
day Birts knee became apparent bad before the Campamento of Torres
, and although she hhas strong pain we make it still to the camping
site. Birte is not alone with her knee pain, nevertheless which already
before had struck us that there here a lot of travellers is by the
| Torres del Paine (Chile): After these
three rocks the national park was named. After an extremely steep
slope one reaches the glacier lake below Torres del Paine, already
under normal conditions a magnificent view.
| Morning mood (Chile).: The highlight of
the national park is the view of Torres at sunrise. Also we want to
have a look at the spectacle of nature, nevertheless, Martin is a
little bit too late because he stayed too long in bed. Because Birtes
knee has not become better yet a lot we let Nadine run ahead, while
I took a little slower pace with Birte. Nadine came so though a little
bit out of breath, but exactly at the time in the view point in when
the mountains from grey about matt changed colour red in radiant orange!
Birte and I can catch only the view at the last points of the summits
and when we arrive at the view point the mountains are grayish again.
While all the other tourists start now the descent we unpack our thermos
jug and drink first of all comfortably a cup of tea, before we start
again to the descent.
| Plan B (Chile).: Already on half a way from the view
point back to our tent it caught in to rain and as it keeps on raining
we decide toin our tent fort the rest of the day. The next morning
Birtes knee is better , however, to play it safe we decide our tour
to put down something. Instead of continuing the circumnavigation
of the Torres we run back to the park entrance. There us takes a coach
with Birte to the Lago Pehoe and us to the administration go. While
Birte again travels with the catamaran over the lake to the Campamento
Pehoe Nadine and I hike from the park management to a camping site.
Because we had to wait very long for the coach, nevertheless, the
daylight was not sufficient for us any more, so that we meet after
an overnight stay in the Campamento Carretas the next morning again
Birte. From here we want to have a look together at the Glaciar Grey.
|198. Weekly report 12.03.- 18.03.2007
Route: Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales
| Glaciar Grey I (Chile).: As well as the
glacier Perito Moreno and the Glaciar Geike Glaciar Grey makes his
way from the Campo Hielo Sur to a glacier lake. Only a few steps of
the Campamento Grey one comes to a very nice view point from one can
admire the glacier and some icebergs.
| Icebergs (Chile).: Also on the Lago Grey
there are swimming icebergs, even if they can keep up with those on
the Lago Geike they are lovely.
| Glaciar Grey II (Chile).: Nevertheless,
one has the substantially nicer view of the Grey of glaciers if one
follows about 1.5 hours the footpath. There the way runs parallel
with the gigantic glacier and so one can admire him in his whole size.
| Ice Hiking (Chile).: While Birte spends
one night alone I go with Nadine further to the Campamento Paso. Because
Birte wants to save her knee rather is our plan that Nadine goes to
complete the Circuit from here over the pass alone, while I plan to
do one more small paddle tour with Birte. In the Campamento Paso we
follow a beaten path which leads to directly to the glacier. Already
in Ushaia we had got ourselves Grödel (for not alpinists: Grödel
are the slight version of grampones, however only suitably if the
ice is relatively level). So we pull our Grödel over the shoes
and transfer us on the ice. Unfortunately, the ice is very bumpy,
so that the short points of our Grödel do not work really well,
but at least, we can turn a small round.
| Paddle tour (Chile). : While I have waited
for Birte in Puerto Natales, I have used the time to get an "other"
paddle licence of the armada. This time I had all equipment including
and because I could show all necessary gear we ot permition. However,
I should contact to the park management and then I might maybe paddle
on Rio Serrano. Nevertheless, Rio Grey lay on the way back for the
park management and to save Birtes knee we decided to paddle at least
a bit on the river. The current on the river is excellent and thanks
to a beaming blue sky we can be mostly done and enjoy the brilliant
view of the lot Cuernos and Torres del Paine. Other than expected
I got the licence to paddle around on Rio Serrano absolutely easily
and thus we came along on the way to our second river.
| Salmons and ducks (Chile). : Curiously
we have the rare chance to observe gigantic salmons in the upper part
of Rio Serrano. First we hardly wanted to trust our eyes when the
gigantic 25-kg-Salmons jumped directly before us out of the water.
We saw the next kilometres the salmons everywhere with the spawning,
however because Birte was a bit scared she refused to look at them
completely at close range. Then later we have found out that the salmons
move from here after the birth into the sea. Then after only 3 years
they can reach a weight of sometimes 35 kg and return again to her
spawning grounds where they then after the finally die. Then though
in our second paddle day we paddled a little bit further on Rio Serrano,
nevertheless, after in the afternoon again the famous padagonian wind
starts and so we stop a little earlier than planned our paddle tourand
hike back to. our tent
| Nadine alone on tour (Chile).: After
only two hours I had defeated the very precipitous increase of the
Paso John Gardner. On account of this precipitous increase it is recommended
to go anticlockwise and then to go down the precipitous side of the
pass. I was the only one that has gone clockwise and thus I had the
privilege to be in all view points completely alone. The weather was
perfect, I could look down rom the pass on the glacier with no cloud
in the sky, and see all surrounding mountains.
| Camping Dickson (Chile).: Because I arrived
already at 13.00 o'clock in the camping place I decided to ignore
this and to use the good weather and to go to according to map further
4 hours to camping Dickson. On my my way I came in the glacier lot
Perros as well as in some wonderful view points the back of Torres
del Paine pointed before I, finally, in the Casmping Dickson with
his marvellous view arrived.
| Torres with sunrise (Chile).:
Also the next day I did the travelling distance most would do in two
days in one long day. The next morning I could admire therefore over
again the sunrise and the red colouring linked with it Torres from
my tent. Now I had to go only by coach at the other end of the park
to change there again to the bicycle and cycle 90 km back to Puerto
Natales . Because this, however, for a day, however, was a little
bit too much I spent the night 20 km of Puerto Natales situated national
|Outdoor Disney World "Torres
del Paine" (Chile.) : Torres del Paine Nationalpark is promised
in many guides as the highlight in Patagonia and the businesslike
Chileans have used this of course also immediately for her adview.
Starting from the fact that foreign tourists pay almost the fourfold
admission price up one finds to many five-star hotels (overnight stay
for 1000, - $) in the park. We have every now and then the feeling
that it here not this is why goes of protecting the nature and of
allowing an insight into a unique world to visitors (at least, the
park is an UNESCO World Heritage), but therefore here possibly a lot
of money is to be earned. Prices for a 2-day kayak tours is between
500, - to 800$ orone can do a half-day glacier tour for 130$. So far
the highest prices that we have seenin the world (in New Zealand a
3-day paddle tours comes for 250$ or all-day glacier tours for 70$)
. Because the park management has also sold the exclusive use of almost
all rivers as concessions to private companies here one may not paddle
except on Rio Serrano also as a private individual (presumably also
unique in the world).Also the park ranger could not persuade us really.
Instead of taking care of the park (especially on the way to the view
point Torre one must search for himself because mainly his way in
the stone field himself what of course worsened the erosion) have
concentrated a lot of ranger more on it also to invite all only travelling
girl in the evening to to the party in their ranger house! As already
said, the park is really very nice, however, thanks to the tourist
masses here yearly and by the fact that the salary in the park visitors
before the nature conservation seems to stand leave with us with a
sad feeling. For us Torres del Paine resembles rather Outdoor Disney
land than a national park. Fitz Roy NP in Argentina was much better.
| Farewell: Then after 12 strenuous however
very harmonious days our common time with Birte also was over.
|199. Weekly report 19.03.- 25.03.2007
Route: Puerto Natales, Kanšle Padayoniens
|Bicycle rebuilding (Chile). : Birte
has brung along Martin Austauschrahmen and now thus it was a matter
merely of altering all shares. Above all before the rebuilding of
the feather fork, or more exactly Said of the tax pipe I have substantially
respect. With a big piece of wood I receive the tax pipe then, however,
from the old frame herausgeklopft and again in the new frame. Nevertheless,
unfortunately I find out only then that in the wooden piece one more
nail is in it with which I have ruined thus the thread in the tax
pipe something to me. Thanks to the file in our Leatherman I do the
thread, however, then again so far that it is functional. With the
rebuilding of back wheel carrier and Rohloff hub then again as usual
the usual Cannondale problems: I can mount lower both screws of the
carrier and frame fixation of the Rohloff hub again only with a little
bit tinkered and to screw one of the rivets around the carrier on
top in the col turns hollow. Because I cannot screw the screw in the
frame me fix the carrier here first of all with cable binders and
an instep belt and send a mail to Cannondale with the question like
me the problem should solve (2 weeks later I still have no answer
of Cannondale, in a bicycle shop they could also not tighten the rivet
it, however, tried, so that she was even looser at the end and, finally,
I have simply stuck the rivet with richly second glue!). Nevertheless,
the rest of the rebuilding runs easily and after I to me in a bicycle
shop for a small legal estate still the pedal-crank bearing has ummontieren
leave (for it I would have used special tools I do not have) now I
can cycle again with my own wheel by the world :-)
|Farewell of pink panther (Chile).:
After to me with the border crossing of Chile (villa O'Higgins)
had broken to Argentina (tablespoon Chalten) my bicycle frame I have
received from Laura and Aldo, two Italians, Lauras old bicycle (Pink
panther). Pink Panter has accompanied us since beginning of January
now a total of 2415 km long from tablespoon Chalten about Puerto Natales,
Punta Arenas and Tierra del Fuego to Ushuaia and again back to Puerto
Natales. Although pink panther already some years on the hump has
he has been to us a very loyal travelling companion and up to a sly
front brake train we had no problems (not even a flat tyre!!!) . Now
where my cog is driving-competent again it is a matter of course of
finding still new at home for pink panthers. No light assignment,
because at that time in tablespoon Chalten Laura and Aldo were shocked
after the quiet Carretera Austral just as us by the tourist place
in the Fitz Roy. At that time, hence, they have also asked us that
we would not like to transmit the wheel please in "to such place".
Now, some months later and after, we have seen tablespoon Calafate,
Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas and Ushuaia, everybody around multiple
more touristically, we long to return almost again in the quiet and
nearly even "original" tablespoon Chalten. Nevertheless,
meanwhile we are in Puerto Natales to one of the touristischten places
in Patagonia, and just here we must find for pink panthers now new
parents. Finally, we have the saving idea: maybe there is a child
home here! Then with the city administration we find out that it in
Puerto Natales really a child home gives and thus we get on the way.
Then shortly before the bank promenade we find "Residencia de
Vida Familiar: Madre Teresa Calcuta". As the home sister to us
sees it is confused only a little bit, however, as us you explain
that we left with pleasure the bicycle to them she is whole all at
once cock-a-hoop. Though I try to explain to her like the bicycle
to us and therefore now to them came, however, nods although the sister
keenly I suppose almost that, nevertheless, my Spanish knowledge was
too bad. Gladly to have found a good new one for pink panthers thus
at home we also still separate from some of our cases and thus a Walkman,
a sports jacket, 2 new plastic ponchos a woollen cap and a thick writing
book also come to new owners. Though the home sister wants to get
all children for a handing over photo, however, we want to organise
no riesen circus because of the pair of little things.
|Navimag ferry (Chile). : Actually,
we wanted together with Sandra von Puerto Montt from with the Navimag
cargo, passenger liner drive to Puerto Natales, however because the
last year the Fährpreise on floppy 350, - $US per person had
been raised lay, nevertheless, well over our financial possibilities.
Nevertheless, in the beginning of this year the Magellanas, the real
ship, broke, so that as a substitute the Puerto Eden, a little smaller
ship, the journey had to take over by the canals of Patagonia. By
chance we again found out that there on the Puerto Eden an even more
favorable cabin class is in one for only 200, - $US can go. Hardly
back from Tierra del Fuego we gave on the Navimag office in Puerto
Natales of course a visit. Then the really nice Navimag employee explained
to us that though there is the favorable cabin that then it is opened,
however, when all the other cabin places are booked up. One can purchase
the favorable ticket, moreover, only in the date of departure, and
thus Oscar takes down first of all only our names and passport numbers
in his calendar (one May not book officially because also). When I
Birte in Puerto Natales pick up I pay of course also to Oscar a visit
and him believes beaming with delight that meanwhile almost all cabin
places are booked. To Birtes departure we call in again on Navimag
and there it now only 4 days up to the departure are we find out that
the ship is fully booked up and we would come along with certainty
in the cheap class. To play it safe completely we stand in the date
of departure then already already 10 minutes before the opening hours
before the Navimag office and thus we receive even the best places
in the emergency cabin. We must specially pay for our bicycles, nevertheless,
once again 37, - $US bike. Now Oscar explains to us that we about
21:00 o'clock again here is had to go. Then he would bring us in our
cabin and the ship would set off for a quiet night then the next morning
to his 3-day journey to Puerto Montt.
|Canals of Patagonia (Chile). :
Around shortly after 21:00 o'clock Oscar then also as promised with
all the other passengers of the class D and led picks up us us on
the ship. On him, ship we are higher transported first with gigantic
costs Hebebühne a floor where we may park then also our bikes.
Now we are led in the inside of the ship and there where the men's
room of the second-most favorable cabin class is now it goes down
over again a steel stair. At the end of the stair then sharply on
the right, but one stands because with the electricity generators
and the ship workshop, and then the next Stahltüre purely. Our
windowless high-capacity cabin (3 sleeping bunks about one another)
resembles kleinwenig to the cabins of the sailors on the warships
of the II world war, i.e. it is a little bit rustic, however, we like
it. We stow away our equipment in an empty bed and after the official
greeting and a film we go to bed. Then sharp 6:00 o'clock we sit vertically
in the bed. The anchor is just thinned out and the anchor cable is
pulled up no 5 m beside our heads. The cheap ticket must have any
hook. Because we are already awake (in particular I) and anyhow soon
sunrise is we get up and transfer us in deck where we are really compensated
at a marvellous sunrise and an even nicer rainbow for the early morning
disturbance of the peace.
|Ship everyday life (Chile).: To
act it does not surrender to such a ship a lot and thus we are, actually,
most time on the bridge which is opened with Navimag from 7:00 o'clock
in the morning to about 19:00 o'clock in the evening continuously
for all passengers. The rest and patience they preserve the captain
and his crew, although the bridge is sometimes so overcrowded as an
Irish pub on Saturday evening is absolutely admirable. Unfortunately,
we have rain weather and the cloud cover hangs so deeply that one
sees only lower halves of the mountains. However, thus the mountains,
woods and canals also have the a little bit very mystic and mysterious.
The time on the bridge, actually, only is interrupted by the meals,
as well as in each case a documentary film in the afternoon. Then
with the dinner the bridge is also concluded for the passengers, so
that we, as well as all the other passengers, our evenings in the
day room spend.
|Glacier visit (Chile).: In the
evening of the first day does not make the Puerto to Eden then a small
excursion a glacier (which name I, unfortunately, properly have understood;
something listens to the Suerto itself so as) which reaches from the
southern padayonischen ice field to directly to the fjord. It rains
and is substantially windy, so that it is not quite simple a photo
to make. Really wet we it, nevertheless, only when we go behind the
dining room. Actually, our place is not bad, because we can overlook
from here the whole Hinterschiff, however, several gusts of wind sweep
here the whole water of a view platform directly on me, so that I
am soaking wet during Nadine relatively unshorn and drily has got
|Sociability on in Chilean (Chile).
: Sociability is apparently capitalised with Navimag and to play
it safe here also the combined dining room and day room immediately
two numbers has been made too small. Thus it comes that we must eat
in three circulations by midday and by evening what is not so tragic,
however, yet. Then, nevertheless, much more irritatingly it is that
one after the dinner no more place finds subjoining around himself
in rest. We are in the middle food round and therefore all comfortable
seats are already booked by food round 1, while food round 3 stays
down of course directly at the tables. Thus we find ourselves to the
film every evening then mostly always on the ground. However, here
we are in good company there because mostly 1/3 of the passengers
on the ground sits to have a look at the film to play cards or just
to read. Also the respect of the film is always very exciting (and
strenuous). Because the film is shown of course in the same day room
in also the remaining passengers to maintained, maps play or make
music have appeared and thus the noise level recorder is accordingly
very high, we are always glad if the film on in Spanish with English
subtitles runs, because thus we can at least coread the entertainments.
We with ours really cheap ticket cannot sue there of course properly,
however, I believe if I in 1000, - $US would have paid for my Fährticket
I would have been irritated already a little bit. But all the same
with which ticket: The evenings were entertaining, so in any case.
|Lighthouse (Chile).: This ship
has to go like one has told us once sugar have loaded and then here
on a mountain point lying under the water have accrued. On the further
inquiry with the captain what has become then from the pile this believed
that the sugar has dissolved in the water. This seemed to the dishes
presumably a little bit too dubious (also that the captain here on
the mountain had accrued), and thus the captain had to go first of
all behind Swedish curtains. Afterwards the ship wreck was used by
the Chilean navy as a welcome opportunity to practice her marksmanship
as many holes can testify, before the ship was converted into a lighthouse.
|Emergency stop(Chile).: After
we had mastered the southern canals of Patagonia successfully (I say
here "we", because most passenger absolutely more time on
the bridge have spent than the captain) now it was a matter the Golfo
de Penas to master the "gulf of the sufferings". Then after
the gulf of the sufferings we must still be able to creep away briefly
on the open sea before we again in the canals. Already in the morning
a planned land walk had been stroked in Tortel because of bad weather
(though the weather was not really bad, however, the captain still
before the gathering stormy weather presumably wanted to pass the
Golfo de Penas). Shortly after the entrance in the gulf, we already
have substantially swell, nevertheless, the ship turns away eastwards.
Nevertheless, presumably it is too stormy further outdoors and thus
we head for a quiet idyllic canal in which we go overnight at anchor
to wait for better weather.
|It further storms, what cares (Chile).
: Whether the weather has really become better or whether the
pressure of time has become too big we do not know, however, about
4 o'clock in the morning we drive off again; thanks to anchor cable
I know the exact time. About 8 o'clock I wake again and our ship is
strong in roll and :-) stamp (believes so right sea bears call the
nice swing movements of ships with every average citizen a smaller
indigestion release). Nadine is already to be vomited, besides and
in the absence of stomach content she simply vomits bilious liquid.
To me it goes well, actually, surely and thus I decide to go for the
breakfast. Pull still has hard time rather well, nevertheless, on
the way from our cabin to the toilet we also me properly and thus
I also vomit. Nevertheless, I also feel fine furthermore surely and
thus I go, nevertheless, for the breakfast. Slowly and carefully I
enjoy my cornflakes, a yoghurt, a tea and a plum. I talk just to another
passenger than I get how my stomach suddenly rebels. I leave hastily
the dining room and hardly in deck I look desperately for the rail.
Nevertheless, unfortunately is exact here the lifeboat, so that I
am not able directly to the rail. A crew member sees my quite quite
desperate view (apart from the fact I keep closed to me with a hand
already mouth) and indicates only silently on the garbage can. Nevertheless,
unfortunately the garbage can is with us often in bus stops gave,
i.e. one is right with a small oval opening into the bargain vertically.
To search time around for another solution I do not have any more
and thus I hold my hand in such a way that my vomited breakfast slides
over the hand in the garbage can opening. So far everything is still
rather unproblematic, the stormy wind would not have been there. This
has to blow because apparently a gigantic joy in it a share of my
"former breakfast" instead of directly in the garbage can
in my face, so that I now the "cornflakes" also on the nose
and on both cheeks stick has. Luckily most passengers are because
of the storm in her beds, so that I, after my stomach is completely
empty, unseen in the bath comes to wash me again. Afterwards I follow
Nadines example and contort again in my bed, while Nadine is still
to be emptied, besides, her bile. We both let lunches cleverly fall
out, however, as itself in the afternoon the storm something lays
and we a little less swell have I venture again from the bed. I are
a matter to the day room around me with some other passengers of looking
at a film. I feel, actually, quite good and thus I decide to drink
some coke. To 2 hours of durable film I survive very well, even if
the seat sets every now and then with with the people in theirs sit
straight through the room slide. After the film I decide to make sometimes
a short excursion on the bridge, however, on half a way I plan around
and let the coke, however, sometimes go by the head. OK, then just,
nevertheless, again in the bed and a round sleep. Then, finally, on
time to the dinner about 19:00 o'clock we drive again in the canals.
Gladly that the haunting has now his end, but still with groggy stomachs
we limit our first meal of the day then, nevertheless, rather to fruit
(there is tasty watermelon), biscuits and some chocolate. Unfortunately,
I could take in the stormy day no photo or go even on the bridge,
however, other passengers have reported to me that the boat point
has dived quite often into the waves high 6-10m, and that the foam
to has high splashed to the bridge (and it is to be seen quite high
on top like on the photo).
|Conciliatory conclusion (Chile).
: The next morning then after a quiet night we have all at once
beaming sunshine! No little cloud far and wide, just thus as the sky
wants to apologise for the stormy day before. By our "Notankerung"
we have 12 hours of delay and thus we virtually have a whole extra
day on the boat. However, not only we enjoy the marvellous weather
but also the sea animals and thus we immediately see several times
whales, dolphins and sea lions. While we in the afternoon just decayed
on the front ship lie about around after the fresh times in Südpadayonien
again properly the sun to refuel a bingo party rises in the dining
room. Nevertheless, every winner must lay first of all a hot sole
on the parquet, before he may receive his price, and thus is the hall
in rave. An older Englishwoman comments on the happy activity shaking
the head, however, appreciatively with the fact that this was probably
the loud bingo party which she would have ever experienced (not to
introduce what would have gone off here if the bingo party had taken
place in the last evening and had not been postponed because of the
storm to the next afternoon). Then about 19:00 o'clock we run after
4 very nice days in Puerto Montt where we leave at 20:00 o'clock then
the Puerto Eden.
|200. Weekly report 26.03.- 01.04.2007
Route: Kanšle Padayoniens, Puerto Montt, Entre Lagos, Parque
|Trekking tour to Baños de
Caulle (Chile).: Already in the last year we wanted to make on
our trip southwards a trekking tour to the Baños de Caulle,
but there was still too much snow from the last winter here in November
that one could not find the way. According to guidebook not only a
thermal springs but also a volcano, a wild scenery and a Geysire expect
us on this trekking tour!
|Volcano Puyehue (Chile). : In
the morning of the second day we come along to the 2236-m-high volcano
Puyehue. The way leads above open lava fields and because it has become
windy overnight a little bit now fresh wind blows us in the face.
With increasing height the wind becomes stronger and stronger and
short below the summit he has already reached storm strength. We must
brace ourselves with all strength against the wind to make progress.
Nevertheless, much more unpleasantly are the small stones which now
fly around. Although the stones are very light in principle, nevertheless,
the hits and in particular the head hits hurt very much (some stones
fly 100 m through the air). Shortly before the summit we hide behind
a small stone wall. The storm howls so loud that we can only come
to an agreement while shouting. We consider, whether we rather should
not turn back only 5 minutes before the summit . Suddenly the storm
stops enough so thaat we race to the summit. Though on top on the
crater of the volcano it still windy but by far not so badly as briefly
below. We do not want to risk of course that the wind will get even
stronger and after a few photos we descent.
|Volcano desert (Chile).: After
the volcano ascent it goes by a dessert-like scenery to the Baños.
Thanks to several volcano eruptions the whole northwest side of the
Puyehue is covered with lava rock as well with a sandy desert.
|Old Furmaroles (Chile).: Shortly
before the Baños we still go past to old Furmarolen. Furmaroles
are sulphuric steams from columns from the ground.
|Los Baños de Caulle (Chile).:
Then in the late afternoon we arrive at the Baños de Caulle
and allow us of course an extensive bath in the really hot springs.
The springs are so hot that I hardly can stay inside for a longer
period of time.
|Los Geisers (Cl.): On our third
travelling day we undertake a hike to a thermal field. Nevertheless,
March was too dry and thus there isat the moment not enough water
for the Geysire. However, as for the rest the thermal field is quite
impress: everywhere it steams and bubbles!
|Sulfur (Chile).: The colourful
sulfur in the thermal field is everywhere to see.
|Lava river I (Chile).: We make
on the way back of the thermal field an excursion to a cooled off
lava river. As the glaciers in the south of Patagonia the black lava
mass rolls here by the valleys. In particular from the distance the
lava river looks similar to a glacier if it wouldnt be black. Below
the small point is on the right, by the way, Nadine!
|Lava river II (Chiles).: In particular
with the desster behind the pitch-black lava masses form an amusing
contrast. From the distance it looked in such a way as if the lava
river as well as a glacier was coherent measures of lava, however,
from closer up we could see that it existed from nothing but rocks
in the most different dimensions, Astonishing we also found that it
is not a uniformly kind of rock. Every stone is completely different:
pitch-black, grey, weakly, brilliantly, extremely porous, compactly,
light, heavy, hard.
|Snowy fields (Chile).: The winter,
2006/07 was very rich in snow and so we still find the last snowy
fields. The light volcano rock above the snowy fields was blown over
the snow and so this strange shapes grew.
|Ruta de los Americanos (Cl.):
For the way back we have planned for the Ruta de los Americanos. According
to all information we had here the way should be marked very badly
to at all and thus many do not try at all this alternative way back.
We had received from Ulla, an Austrian, a description of the Ruta
de los Americanos which was made by 2 Dutchmen who had gone the trip
in February, 2007. Equipped with this description and a map we venture
in the adventure. The first day the track goes mostly over the open
lava fields and thus we have no problems to find the way. Also from
the bamboopoles the Dutch have hardly seen some we discover several
which have been blown away from the wind. We are in principle well
in the time and thus we put, actually, almost all Bambusstecken we
discover again (if we are sure to be by hundred percent on the right
route) what is sometimes very hard in the compact lava fields. Above
lava fields it goes thus over a pass and from there over old snow
fields down to a wonderful idyllic valley with a small brook. In the
small oasis in the midst of the lava desert we make our lunch break.
Fortunately, we remain always anyhow on the right route and thus we
make headway, actually, very well. Merely on the last kilometre when
it is a matter to cross some deep and precipitous canyon no track
is to be seen by the way and by the bamboo sticks. Nevertheless, thanks
to the road description of the Dutchmen we find the camping site.
In the second day the routenfinding should become more difficult,
actually, still much, however, we have luck again and trip several
times over the bamboo sticks lying on the ground, so that we remain
again on the way. Thus we also find the place in that the way from
the lava fields again descends in the woods. Then below in the valley
we must only even follow an old car track. Very kindly exactly a free
Campameto lies at the end of the trail, so that we spend here our
last night in Chile.
|Postconsideration Patagonia (Chile).
: In total we were about 5 months in Patogonia (about 4 months
in the Chile and one month in Argentina). Regional we have liked Patagonia
very well and also the otherwise so dreaded patagonian wind has meant
it very well with us. Nevertheless, a little bit disappointing we
thought that Patagonia changes more and more to a huge tourist spectacle
(Torres del Paine and the glacier Perito Moreno are there the front
runners). Under the name "Patagonia" they charge extremely
high prices which stand in no relation to the performances and. Here
in particular in the Chilean part many smell the big deal and from
the open hearty auxiliary readiness of the Chileans which has impressed
us in the north of the country still so, is nothing left any more
(the Argentines are still easy going and it is more inexpensive).
Clear these all-inclusive statements do not apply to everybody, however,
unfortunately, trends are very clear to recognise. Thanks to gigantic
luxurious hotel facilities in national parks, 4WD Trucktours, controlled
day to travelling excursions, coach columns who drive the all-inclusive
tourists directly before the glacier, and, ... wild and impetuous
Patagonia was tamed very much. However, like an eagle sadly in his
cage sits instead of proudly by the winds to float, Patagonia has
also lost his original charm for us in many places, unfortunately.
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