PERU: 12.11.2007 - 22.01 2008

Route: Puno, Cusco, Aguas Calientes, Cusco, Ayacucho, Huancayo, Huanuco, Huaraz, Casma, Trujillo, Chiclayo, Máncaro

Cycled kilometres: 3451 km of                  Ascent: 28675 m

 
Preface: Peru was one of the countries in which cycling was not always pure pleasure. Clear, the Inca's ruins of Machu Picchu and the Lake Titicaca were quite impressive, however, many grit runways bad now and again (several broken spokes, a broken rim, carrier and carrier's connection broken) itself from the valleys situated on 2000 m about passes between 4000 m and 4800 m, many aggressive dogs, the omnipresent "Gringo" - or "Gringo give me money" - calls, the extreme weather conditions now and again with snow on the passes and the extreme heat in the valleys or on the coast have demanded of us quite a lot a lot. Then after the strenuous times with the mountain dwellers the incredibly friendly coastal inhabitants were like balm on the soul, and in particular Willian and his family as well as Lucho and Aracelli we have to owe it that we have not been frustrated completely. Differently than a lot of other bicycle traveller we have camped as usual also in Peru nearly exclusively wildly and have never felt, besides, unwell or even threatened, even if we have maybe selected our camp sites a little more carefully than in the neighbouring countries.
 
233. Weekly report 11.10. - 18/11/2007

Route: Puno, Cusco, Santa Theresa, Aquas Calientes, Cusco, Abancay
 
Lake Titicaca: The name of the famous lake consists of the words "Titi" and "Kaka.". While "Titi" translates "puma" is called, "Kaka" means "stone, rock or grey". If one sees the Lake Titicaca from above so one can recognise with some imagination the form of a puma who catches just a small animal, and, otherwise, from the swimming islands a grayish colour (funnily where he has of the Lake Titicaca, nevertheless is radiant blue). Compound hotly Titikaka "grey puma".
 
Flamingos: We have been surprised a little bit when we see flamingos in the middle on the shore of the Lake Titicacas. Up to now we have seen flamingos rather in areas settled less close (with the exception of the flamingos with Calafate).The flamingos are very close on the shore and thus I come along on the photo deerstalking.
 
Mud: On the way back from my flamingo safari I want to take another way not to have to run directly along the field edge. If I had sometimes rather nicely give up, because although it looks so as if I above a green meadow would run I break twice up to the knees in black-green morass. The black-green morass sticks about 1 cm thick to my legs, feet and shoes and looks so tasty that Nadine rather does not want to come close to me to. I am able to remove the coarsest morass with one putting, however, the attempt my feet in the lake fail to wash, because the whole shore is very slushy here. A few kilometres farther, then, however, at last, finally, a rocky place with clear water and thus I am a clean little pig again.
 
Excursion to the Uros: The Uros, or Islas Flotantes (Swimming islands), are an island group in the Lake Titicaca which are built exclusively from reed (Totara). To protect itself from the aggressive Collas and Incas the Uros have withdrawn some centuries ago here on her selfbuilt islands in the Lake Titicaca and also even today several hundred Uros live at this unusual place. Because we suppose that the situation on the islands by the strong tourism travels around is strongly tightened, we do not decide by our boats to paddle to them not to wear out the situation. Moreover, we know already that with strong ones our boats do not wind are optimum and it is windy here always. Nevertheless, with one the tour operator we also do not want drive and thus we proceed to go 6:30 o'clock in the morning to the harbour around by one of the normal shuttle boats. When we come the ticket shop assistant believes that another 4 passengers were absent, before the boat would put away (we are first). No problem think, nevertheless, we every few minutes a new group of tourists come. However, all incoming tourists have booked a tour. Also the young baking packers seem to have a bulging full travel cash, because everybody goes they together with a tour guide to one of the boats and disappears in the direction of the islands. In our guide stands that the school on the island is very grateful for donations of pencils, and thus it is no miracle that there are here in the landing stage some women who still want to sell fast a pair of pencils (in the 12th stack) or coloured pencils to the tourists. The school presumably gets as a gift meanwhile already so many pencils that they can sell them to the shop assistants in the landing stage again back (we would not surprise if it ran so).
 
Fellow-passenger: We already wait one hour for our missing passengers and are already in doubt whether the idea to go by the normal boat so felt well really (meanwhile some hundred tourists with her guides has passed us because) when suddenly a Peruvian from Arequipa (a town some 300 km north-westerly from Puno) with her both adult sons also wants to go by the normal boat. The Peruvian is excited a little bit and, besides, is a little bit dominant, sold, however, also a good customer of the candy shop assistant her still fast 3 bags of candies for the children on the island (actually, the Peruvian wants only 2 bags, nevertheless, the shop assistant she is convincing that three bags would be better, because she would visit, finally, 3 islands (however, at last we see only 2 islands and children there is hardly, because everybody is just at school). Also the jelly shop assistant finds a good customer with our Peruvian and thus she buys for herself and her sons once more fast 6x jelly. Even as of the mother strikes that her photo film is snapped, actually, quite fully and wants to sending off them just her latest ones around supplies to shop there comes a woman of the Colca canyon, the second-deepest canyon of the world which lies here in the south of Peru with her daughter. Nevertheless, luckily the candy shop assistant has also photo films and thus one more film on the boat is thrown fast, before we already put away. During the whole excitement of the last minutes one of the jellies has liked unfortunately in the boat inside in the water, the more recently son fished him though from the water, however, he denies to himself this still to food and now there some rest, finally, his mother calls in consumed him under the multiple protestation that no water by the plastic bag has come. Finally, after a half-hour boat trip through a lane in the reed we come with the Uros. Luckily we have not paddled ourselves by our boats, because the ground of the islands lies absolutely 1 m about the water, so that we could not presumably have got out at all.
 
Construction of the swimming islands: Then on our island we get from an islander an introduction to the island culture. All together there are 40 islands everybody in principle are same, however, have different name. The islands virtually float 14 m above the sea reason. As a "foundation serve the rhizomes of the Totora. Afterwards there come the Totora stalks on the rhizomes and the island is more or less ready. Because the Totora stalks will rot in the water of course this over and over again on top added. Then on the ground from Totora to stalks the huts which are of course also from Totora are built. If one has moved on the islands one the feeling as one would be a small little narrowness on his sky cloud, thus is aerial light and springy the run feeling. If one, nevertheless, too near to the edge of the islands comes it can feel well that the ground gives way under something, however, we have not got wet feet. It is completely different then, nevertheless, presumably in a stormy rainy day if the Totora pieces stick on the feet and the island hard in swing is. Although the islands with ropes in the sea reason are anchored, nevertheless, it can already seem that they are torn off from the wind and further expel on the Lake Titicaca. When he the scrared face of the Peruvian from Colca sees our islander calmly that means this no problem the wind would be there sometime again would turn and would do the islands again back in the island community.
Islander: On our island 9 families which live on the fishing and meanwhile on the tourism live. Although the life runs in principle still very traditionally (fishing, boat construction and Inslebau claim a lot of time) the communication age has also penetrated up to this remote corner earth. While our islander to us the construction of the islands pauses explained he briefly, his mobile phone pulls out, checks an SMS, smiles briefly and explains afterwards further the construction of the island. On the islands there is beside a postal office also a school to which the pupils must row of course by boats. Interestingly the islanders must pay no taxes. Till some years the islanders could drink the sea water still simply in such a way, however, thanks to the modern civilisation has so got dirty of the Lake Titicaca meanwhile that they must filter the water. Because we with a controlled tour are not on the move we have to come the luck on one of the islands visited less often. Here the islanders are very nice, and come even on us to around themselves with us to maintain quite normally. Although also Tourist souvenirs are sold here the women are very reserved; no track from announced in the guide the "to hard and penetrating sales technologies".
 
Island kitchen: The whole island is slightly ignitable of course, so that the cooking on the island requires a little bit more care. A stone record on a tone rack, the cooker serves to the islanders for the cooking, stands. The culinary cooker is poked of course with dry Totora to stalks.
 
Fishing: To expect as hardly differently, the fishing shows a main food spring of the islanders. To make to itself the life here small a little easier the islanders have inserted to themselves small "ponds" in the middle of her swimming islands in which they breed fish to themselves (or presumably the too small caught fish something else grow before they in the soup pot land). However, beside fishing water birds also count to the food and we have surprised that many water birds completely calmly walked around on the islands, while her dead friendsv without feathers a few metres lie besides in the shade and on it wait in the frying pan to be thrown.
 
Boat construction: The only means of transportation of the islanders were originally the selfbuilt boats from Totora, although there are meanwhile also many wooden oar boats. For a reed boat the men of our island (9 men) need about 1-1,5 months. With ropes the Totora stalks are closely tied up really, so that the boat becomes very compact and sleek. Nevertheless, unfortunately, the boats are long-lasting only about 9 months. Actually, we wanted no spin on one of the reed boats makes, however, at last because overcomes also the woman from Colca her fear and itself on the boat transfers we want to be as the only foreigners of our group also no spoilsports and go also with on a neighbouring island.
 
Return journey: Then on the return journey our woman from Colca packs all at once the bundle, she wears including and to the prelight hand-made and hand-embroidered pockets, belts, bags and mobile phone pockets come. If one already an excursion makes one can use the opportunity immediately to the other tourists to sell own Souvenir stuff to earn the travel expenses thus. Then the woman from Arequipa also is equally completely enthusiastically from the pockets and buys, finally, three embroidered mobile phone pockets. An embroidered belt has particularly done it Nadine and she acquires here for a friendship price among "travel companions". The mood is happy and let out, everybody takes photos of everybody to us to us back in Puno of each other by slap dismiss. Although an excursion to the Uros absolutely one of the "most tourist" thing is one in the Lake Titicaca he can make us very well fallen. Because we have gone by the normal boat and have come thus to society of the "locals" on the islands, are to us the dance presentations of the islanders (several women stand side by side in a row and sing the refrain of the old hit "Vamos a la Playa" and with a loud "Huiiiii" they turn for the end once in the circle) and the stubborn Souvenir vender saved remaining, so that the excursion was very nice.
On our way to Cusco: The area between Puno and Cusco is settled relatively close and thus it is to be found camp sites good a little more difficultly. Hence, we cycle to it virtually quite dark is and then build up fast our tent off the street. We are just, besides, after a camp site a look out keep closed as Nadine suddenly an old man by his bicycle (on to whom he still sits) in the roadside ditch sees lying. We go back to him and ask to him whether he an accident had or whether we can help him. The notification is not extremely difficult and we know whether the man either virtually no Spanish speaks, is got drunk, from an accident still under shock stands or in principle is rather confused. Then, nevertheless, at last we have the feeling he no accident had and presumably on his way home by the darkness was surprised and thus wants to spend here the night. The only words we of him understand are, we give "no accidente" (no accident) and panecito (bread roll) and thus him one third of our bread rolls and a bottle of water. To us what is not yet so clearly with the man exactly was wrong, because in the area there presented itself, actually enough, houses in he if necessary could have turned. Nevertheless, he seems to have had hunger, because he has immediately consumed our bread rolls.
 
Car wash: Unfortunately, the subject Environment protection here in South America often is still a rather unknown subject. Plastic bottles are dropped exactly where one the bottle finishes or thrown from the car window, plastic bags fly virtually everywhere (nevertheless, she prefers in the river and in pasture fences in those they get stuck after of the wind blows them agay) and wild garbage waste dumps directly in the local edge are often an everyday picture. Especially badly we find it whenever we seeing that coaches and cars are driven to the washing simply in the next best river. No miracle that clean drinking water becomes more and more the goods in short supply. However, unfortunately, this is often an absolutely unnecessary, home-baked problem.
 
Meetings: The area between Cusco and the Salar de Uyuni particularly seems to be liked with bicycle travellers, because except New Zealand and Patagonia we have never seen so many cyclists in so short time. Beside 2 German (www.radventura.net) and 2 Austrian cyclists (see Bolivia reports), to a Portuguese from China (Macao), a Brazilian, 3 cyclists we have seen only from the coach, to 2 Englishmen, a Canadian, 3 Americans from Seattle, 2 French on couch wheels (globicyclette.yahoo.fr), a Japanese (www.sekiji.net) and the 5-headed French family (see Bolivia reports) we have also found a family from Switzerland. This makes 28 cyclists on just 1000 km with us! From the cyclists at least 8 are on the move, by the way (incl. us) already longer than one year. Among the rest, we have also met a very nice Belgian couple on a motorcycle from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in just 6 months want to go (ww.viaje-america.blogspot.com). Resists the scanty time they have, nevertheless, as them have seen us over again turned around himself with us to maintain. Now though this does not sound a lot, however, during the last 4.5 years just one motorcyclist has has stopped and has turned round quite immediately none!
 
Swiss cycling family: Shortly before Cusco we hit on Florian, Rebekka and Chan, to three Swiss on bicycle world trip (http://www.dreirad.fenris.ca). Florian and Rebekka are before several years to her world trip broken open, nevertheless, as Rebekka then in Canada all at once pregnant was the both have taken first of all a small compulsive break what was relatively trouble-free thanks to Rebekas double citizenship (Swiss Canadian), nevertheless. Differently than many others have not shifted the both, or now more three, her travel plans indefinitely. Chan was hardly big enough to spend in only longer time in the bicycle follower Three have got on the way again. Then from Canada over the USA and Central America Chan still had this enjoy themselves from dad by the world to let ride in a coach, however, since Cusco the comfortable life and "hard cycleday" is over shouts. Here in Cusco you have agreed because spezialadapter from Switzerland by means of which one can fasten a normal child wheel to a normal bicycle (the front wheel of the child wheel comes to the with which the steering system is blocked). Now thus Chan can cycle, according to traffic situation, every now and then some kilometres itself and he is connected, however, still firmly with mummies wheel. However, to the need there is always the comfortable bicycle follower of dad into whom he can withdraw, however, the comfortable day are absolutely already counted:-). What has particularly impressed us with the three ones, is that they have maintained her travel style in spite of younger generation more or less. Now clear it gives this or other Hostel more, however, in principle it is camped and if the travel cash is empty, is just stopped and worked! Although we have talked absolutely 2 hours in the street edge, and with it absolutely Chans patience have strained substantially, the time was too short. However, if one itself not exactly with the camp site search hits only little time remains to one for such travel meetings.
 
234. Weekly report 19.10. - 25/11/2007

Route: Cusco, Santa Theresa, Aquas Calientes, Cusco
 
Avoidance of the monopolist "Peru Rail": The railway company "Peru Rail" pursued by an English company puts apart from the Inca Trail (who is there only about in expensive controlled travelling groups passably) ordinarily the only possibility to reach to Machu Picchu. Peru Rail uses his monopoly position shamelessly and requires prices one absolutely as impertinent can call (in particular if one thinks that we are here in South America). The tickets for the 110-km-long distance reach from the cheap "baking packer's ticket" for 96, - $US up to the ticket in the luxury train "Hiram Bingham" for 588, - $US. The about 40 km long short distance from Ollantaytambo is for only 68, - to have $US. Peruvians pay, by the way, in the local train forbidden for foreign tourists (from Ollantaytambo) under 1.5$US! Such extravagances are with our common day budget of about 13, - € of course completely impossibly and thus we choose one of the less known alternative routes. From Cusco we go by bus during about 7 hours to Santa Maria. We need a little longer, because still within Cusco our coach suffers an engine trouble (we were already very sceptical as us already before departure the coach driver with the tool box have seen) and it a little bit lasts, until the spare coach comes. The spare coach is a little smaller, so that some passengers must sit now on plastic stools in the way. Then from Santa Maria it goes by a minibus (VW coach size) in we with 23 people "easily"  fit in and during about two hours about adventurous grit runway (with a landslide we must get out with one third of the passengers and run) go to Santa Theresa where we the night in one overcharged for Hostel spend (we could be cheated). The next morning we concern the last kilometres to Aquas Calientes on foot. After we have crossed Rio Urubamba in a little bit adventurous cable railway (for ourselves it goes downhill and we can sit, however, the pupils on our side must want with up to 6 men stand and, besides, stretch uphill) it goes first on a street 2 hours up to a hydroelectric power plant. In the hydroelectric power plant we must register ourselves with a police check post before we can run the last 2 hours on the railroad to Aquas Calientes, the village at feet from Machu Picchu.
 
Ascent of the Putucusi: From Aquas Calientes one can mount the Putucusi, a mountain directly towards from Machu Picchu. The way is precipitous and one may also creep about some ladders, however, the look of the summit is magnificent. One is a little higher than Machu Picchu on the other valley side and is complete alone. While we the first hour the summit still for ourselves have joined itself later still a very nice couple from Slovakia to us and we enjoy the view together before we before the approaching thick dark rain clouds in the valley flee.
 
Leaf eater ants: On away to the Putucusi we see all at once a whole column sheet guts ants. Entrancedly we watch the small little animals like they the gigantic sheet pieces from a tree top for her construction somewhere hidden in the primeval forest drag. I had always thought, actually that the leaf eater ants eat the sheets and was to be learnt therefore amazedly that they put on from the sheets the fertile soil for a certain mushroom which is then her food spring. As with the bees there is also with the ants passed away "box", they according to job passed away even completely appearance. Thus there is beside the edge ants bearer, gardeners (they put on the fertile soil), guard also quite a small type Ant itself on the sheets umhertragen leaves. Biologists suppose that these small ants maybe in addition there are to prevent that wasps lay her eggs during the transport in the already cut sheets.
 
Coach transfer: Because one to the average all-inclusive tourist (with it we do not mean the people physically not about it are not able) of course can expect 400 metres height of Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu on foot to put back a street was made specially for the existing shuttle service in the mountain. The There and return journey costs floppy 12$US for the 8-km-long distance (for the same price one can ordinarily drive in Peru absolutely 500 km). When we on the Putucu sit 10 are on the move constantly - 14 coaches on the Serpentines. Nevertheless, unfortunately, the subject Environment protection in the Machu Picchu is really a very acute subject. Thus, for example, a Japanese university has ascertained in 2001 with investigations that at the time at that time the west side of the Machu Picchu at the unbelievable speed slips off from 1 cm per Monatam! If stop is not offered to the heavy tourist use the danger soon absolutely insists that Machu Picchu slips off sometime simply in the valley! And visitors itself from comfort by coaches allow to high ride in a coach do not contribute absolutely to the relaxation of the situation.
 
Rainy season: The alarm clock rings at 03:45 o'clock and I torment myself with iron one for the sake of from the bed. Immediately Nadine sends me outward before the door to see whether it still rains (the whole night had rained by violently). It does not rain and thus to breakfasts we briefly and pack our seven things. Even as we are ready to go  we hear all at once again this drum the raindrop on the roof. It rains again namely so strongly that we decide to wait one more day and creep away to us again in our bed. The rainy season Has just started and thus it rains more or less continuously the whole day. In hope that it tomorrow absolutely again better weather gives we spend a comfortable day in the Hostel and I use the time around a few reports again into English to translated.
 
Machu Picchu: The next morning as us the alarm clock at 3:40 o'clock from the deep sleep tears we hear the light one again drum on the roof. Only today, nevertheless, our ticket is valid and thus we get on the way, nevertheless, together with our room neighbours, however, as us around 04:30h start to run it does not rain. Machu Picchu lies on a ridge and thus we are allowed first tightly uphill, before we stand faster than expected already around 05:30h before the gate. However, thus we are then also one of the first as the gates to the lost Inca's town half an hour later are opened. Machu Picchu is called, by the way, "big mountain" on Quechua, the language of the Incas.
 
The discovery of Machu Picchu: Anyhow Machu Picchu was overlooked by the Spaniards and thus the Inca's town falls into oblivion, before it was discovered in 1911 by the American historian Hiram Bingham again. Originally already from thick primeval forest overgrown one succeeded in releasing Hiram Bingham and his team the arrangement from 1912 to 1915 from the jungle. Although there several studies about Machu Picchu is the knowledge about the old Inca's town remains rather vague. Some historians suppose that Machu Picchu an important religious centre was during other historians think that the town at the moment as the Spaniards came was already unoccupied.
 
A new Wonder of the World: The appointment one of the new Wonders of the World were moved in the Machu Picchu directly in cash coin and thus the entry prices are raised directly after the appointment this year of 20, - € on 30, - €. However, this will not remain absolutely the end of the flagpole then we have already heard rumours about a wide price increase.
 
Where they are then: A giant storm of people and a big tourist groups ordinarily rules in the Machu Picchu follows of the others, however, we are the first half an hour alone attached!
 
Quiet viewpoint: On the way to the Huayna Picchu there is still a small mountain, the Huchuy Huayna Picchu, and there just nebulous clouds in gather are we make the short excursion. What Good decision which during Huayna Picchu have hidden behind thick clouds we from the small premountain a marvellous fading on from fog patches and clouds pass through the Inca's town. There all the others are to be come eagerly on the Huayna Picchu (although he completely is in the clouds) we can enjoy the view here completely alone!
 
Huayna Picchu: Huayna Picchu, ("small mountain" on Quechua) is at the southern end of the arrangement situated summits from which one has a marvellous overview. At least here became the visitors pay on 400 visitors per day limited and controlled groups are excluded from it presumably. There it just rains we have a look first at the lunar temple before we from the back on the Huayna Picchu rise. Because the Huayna Picchu becomes very precipitous at the end lead breathtaking stair, and leaders the last metres does not have a good head for heights up to the summit and each should consider twice whether he wants here. Briefly below the summit still there lie the ruins of some houses and terraces whose dramatic situation is absolutely impressive.
 
Magnificent view: The view of the Huayna Picchu down on Machu Picchu is magnificent and we come just on time as the sun out comes around them in full trains in our lunchbreak to be able to enjoy.
 
Ah... here they are: On top on the Huaya Picchu we hit after an absolutely quiet morning then at last, nevertheless, on the tourist masses. To devise hardly what would be up here loose there would not be the limit on 400 visitors per day!
 
Forbidden bottles! On the ticket as well as on signs at the entrance the visitor is pointed out to the fact that drinks in "disposable bottles forbade strictly" are and merely Recyclable bottler in the visit of the Machu Picchu are permitted. Ordinarily we see those regulate a little more laxly (nevertheless, we have thrown in our whole life still no plastic bottles simply in the bushes), however, this time we obey well the instruction and take merely our thermos bottle. Then, nevertheless, attached we find out that we apparently the only ones are itself to the disposable bottles forbade have held and think to us merely that the others were a little more courageous just than us. Then something are nibbled at we, nevertheless, as the supervisors in her controlling post at the entrance to the Huayna Picchu water and coke in disposable bottles, of course for the 5-fold normal price, sell. When we the guards on it appeal mine to them them would only make this because soon Christmas would be! A silly excuse could not really have occurred to them!
 
Holy stone: The holy stone is a gigantic stone record shortly before the entrance to the Huayna Picchu and many tourists lie down level against them. When we just this are is a group Sikh (Sikhismus is an Indian religion and a mixture of Hiduismus (ideas of karma, meditation) and Islam (Monotheism)). The Sikhs lie down also level by the holy stone and come out of the dream about his energy hardly more.
 
Mysterious bowls: Unfortunately, only very little knowledge has been preserved about the Incas, her culture and her religion and many theories are at most courageous speculations like the explanations of the bowls point. In some of the houses see we flatten struck bowls from the ground and the explanations of the guides about her use have absolutely a little bit adventurous in themselves: 1.: However, grain mortars (in addition are too level they). 2.: Herbal spot stones (in principle still too level). 3.: To observe mirror around the sun (then, however, the houses can have had no roofs what was very uncomfortable in winter and in the rainy season absolutely). 4.: The earthquake early warning systems which were observed by 2 men and if it light waves on the water gave then this should have been a sign for the first seismic waves (at least a courageous creative idea).
 
Breathtaking mountain world: Though the ruins of Machu Pichu are not bad, however, in principle not exceptionally well-preserved. Nevertheless, for us are not the ruins separate her spectacular situation in the middle on a ridge especially amusing. Particularly from the Huayna Picchu (here it goes about 600 m precipitously downhill in the valley of the Urumbaba of river here several loops makes) one has a magnificent fading on the surrounding mountain world with theirs precipitous with thick primeval forest covered to slopes. In particular as a thunderstorm passes everything looks much more breathtaking still and we are hardly able to stop watching!
 
Inca bridge: Though the Inca's bridge is not already bad, however, much more impressively we find next meanwhile with bushes to become overgrown, away through the middle of the cliff face through. I mean the thin green stiff in the cliff face in background! Absolutely nothing for people with fear of heights:-)
 
The Inca Empire: According to a legend (there is one more) there should have appeared Mánco Capac, the first Inca, and his sisters, created by the sun, from the Lake Titicaca. With his small trunk Mánco Capac moved in the region of Cusco where they founded the town. The next generation were occupied predominantly with discussions with her neighbours. The big turn came as a Pachacuti in 1538, finally, the odious Chanca defeated, crowned itself to the Incaking and with it started to extend the borders of the empire. The enlargement of the Inca's empire was continued by his son Topa Inca to it, finally, his gigantic magnitudes reached. Merely the Mapuche in Chile could not overcome the Incas (and also the Spaniards) (this remained a few hundred years later of the Chilean army they leave after the war by Bolivia and Peru had won). However, faster than the Inca's empire under Pachacuit and his son Topa Inca had grown it was smashed no hundred years later with the arrival of the Spanish Conquisatores in 1532 also again.
 
The Inca culture: The Inca's society based on the far developed technologies in the production of textiles, buildings, metal work and ceramics. Llama, alpaca and dog were domesticated for a long time and grain, maize and potatoes was grown on terraces invested in steep mountains. For emergency times food memories were furnished and the method of the conservation of potatoes was dehydrogenating (we have already eaten 3x dehydrogenated potatoes, however, anyhow they do not get on with our stomachs). For the protection of the economic security were valid limited personality rights and thus nobody might leave his residential place and job. The family was more important than the individual and the families were summarised into groups of 10, 100, 500, in 1000, 10000 and 40000 with a responsible leader. As a planned economy statistical information presumably played a big role around the food production to steer. To the maintenance of the communication the Inca's stone ways about the couriers have put on on foot fast messages could advance. While the title of the Incaking paled was, all the other post of the Incas was openly for the most gifted ones in each case, so that no stiff box system has developed. As already the Tiwanaku culture also revered the Incas the sun whose deputy on earth was the Inca's king. As well as many other cultures ordered so also the Incas of building specially established for astronomical investigations (temple).
 
The end of the Incas: The setting of the Inca's empire came fast and unexpectedly: in the death of the Inca Huayna the Incareich of the today's south of Colombia reached till the middle of Chile. During the Huáscar born in Cusco the south with Cusco as a capital agreed his half-brother Atahualpa should govern the north around Quito. Around the Alleinherrschaft a civil war from the Atahualpa broke in 1932, finally, for itself decided. Atahualpa marched just with his 40000 - to 80000 strong armies in the direction of south as him during a rest with Cajamarca in November, 1532 on 179 mounted Spanish Conquisatores with her leaders Pizarro meets. When Atahualpa comes the next day from his resting place situated with thermal springs with 6000 faithful to the main square of Cajamarc (which he had instructed to the Spaniards as a resting place) the last hour of the Inca's empire has hit. Atahualpa throws a Bible handed by the Spaniards on the ground what the Spaniards as an occasion the Incas take to attack. From the riders and the cannons obviously stunnedly the Incas start in panic the escape (during which they should have simply upset even a 2-m-thick poor according to guide). 7000 Incas are massacred by the Spaniards and the Inca's king Atahualpa is arrested (what the other 33000 - 73000 Inca soldiers have made we do not know). Originally his release was promised to the Inkaking if a certain space was filled once with gold and twice with silver. Many Inca's treasures from Cusco were brought and in summer, 1533 the ransom was together. The Spaniards allowed to melt the whole art treasures (a total of 6000 kg of gold and 12,000 kg of silver) and convicted Atahualpa in 26. July in 1533, nevertheless, to the death. Though there were still some less appreciable uprisings during the following years, however, with the case of Atahualpa also there fell the Inca's empire. To me it hard falls to understand that just 179 mounted Spaniards with a few cannons (presumably more noise and smoke has produced than seriously damage to arrange) it created ones have to throw down in only one battle the whole Inca's empire (at that time possibly as largely as France, Italy, Switzerland and all Benelux states together). The Spaniards were absolutely war-technically seen consider, however, this was the Russian army in Afghanistan and the US Army in Vietnam always and, nevertheless, had to admit them after many years her defeat. As said for me the setting of the Incas remains with him the Incas disappear of the knowledge about many things of her culture a riddle (with many things concerning there are big speculations and in the different springs many things are shown differently. Our sources of information were Lonely Planet: Peru and Footprint: Southamerika handbook). Also Nadine has here thus her supposition and thus she states stubbornly that the Inca's society was absolutely a slaves societyt. How else, otherwise, they could have established in so short time so many gigantic buildings. Moreover, it would be a good explanation of it that a handful of Spaniards the gigantic Inca's army has defeated, because the slaves no desire had to fight and were glad to have been released!
Journey home: From Aguas Calientes we take the direct way on the road rails from direction Cusco. Ordinarily approach us only 28 km on the road rails, however, after 5 hours and 21 kilometres stops in the flowing out rain of the rail carriages of the section workers and the drivers offers us to us to take. We pass 2 controlling posts and every time the distance workers do not hide us fast under a few jackets with it we are seen. We are glad not only about the entrainment gigantically, but also that there here in the Tourist region apparently, nevertheless, people is to one from pure friendliness and not from financial interest help. However, unfortunately, there we have been glad too early then after some kilometres the distance workers demand all at once money. We do not want to be impolite and give her employer a little bit exact nevertheless so are also the distance workers of the opinion that foreigners there are to be excluded. Because we have given them what to them not enough was we have given without further ado (we them more than the local train ticket!) on open distance after about 10 km again put out! The place with km 82 of from us could have taken a minibus we already leave behind ourselves and now thus we must still run about 6-7 km to Ollantaytambo (we have saved nothing and have paid for the entrainment of the rail workers even more than the minibus would have cost). Nevertheless, on the way we hit on a very nice Peruvian farmer who is just on the way to her corn field. She can hardly believe it that we have run almost the whole way from Aguas Calientes up to here (from her we find out that the locals for the train distance just 1, - € pay). She is so enthusiastically from the fact that we want to cycle from Cusco by the bicycle to Lima and spend the night in the tent that she spontaneously in her corn field jumps to get a few corncobs to us. While we on her return wait an older Peruvian presumably does not go past and there they maize is sure whether we here want to steal she stops so long with us to them, finally sees that the field owner gets maize for us. Later we reach three quarters of an hour, finally, Ollantaytambo and after a short one go in a minibus and a longer coach journey we are at nightfall, finally, again in Cusco.
235. Weekly report 26.11. - 02/12/2007 

Route: Cusco, Rio Apurimac, Abancay, Andahuaylash
 
Quick once more...: Actually, I wanted only sometimes fast on the Internet around an on-line new health insurance to conclude (with an English assurance there the German ones me do not want any more there I already abroad am). I have filled just everything, have given my credit card data and have got the info that checking the bank data will last about 2 minutes when all at once the Internet connection breaks down in completely Cusco! There lasts about 1 hour, until the connection has functioned again, however whether the insurance end has clapped I do not know of course. I send a mail got, nevertheless, so fast no answer to the assurance, so that I call for safety's sake by Skype. The completion of the contract has not clapped and the nice woman has hardly already said this the connection breaks down again briefly (this time, however, only quite briefly). So I take out the policy on-line once more, transfers successfully my bank data. Now I want to shift only briefly money between my both accounts, however, makes for any reason a mistake with the Identifyerer and after I have made 2x my on-line access is blocked. O.k. then also at the bank call, Nevertheless, even as I, besides am with the cashiers my account again freizuschalten my Skype credit is empty (the connection with the bank is substantially more expensive than a normal connection) and our conversation is finished. Though I try to charge fast still with Nadine our credit, nevertheless, this time resolves to themselves to check Paypal our by which the process should last about one week! Meanwhile we have already irritated afternoon and something now, nevertheless, Nadine sees that we remain better one more day and thus we check, although our packed bikes already in the inner courtyard answer again in the Hostel. By the whole action we also have rausgefunden that our map reading device is defective and thus we spend the remaining afternoon at the various markets in Cusco in search of substitute, until we make a find, finally, in an electric store. The only ones itself about my Dussligkeit please really are Ulrike and José, an in German Spanish Ralderpärchen which live with us in the same Hostel, because thus we have to exchange over again one day around travel experiences. Although we some days in Cusco, the tourist capital of South America with his museums, churches, little lanes Kopfsteinplflaster and the nice "Plaza of the Armas" were we have visited no museum and no church and also have taken no photo of the town, nevertheless, we were occupied too much with other things (repair, nice talks with other travellers...).
 
Rio Apurimac: From Cusco (2400m) from it goes on tarred street more than two smaller passports, finally, from 3660 m to down to Rio Apurimac on 1900 m. Rio Apurimac is the source river of the Amazon. From a few American canoeists we have belonged that Rio Apurimac should be one of the best white-water rivers of the world (WW II-IV) and is absolutely brilliant in particular of the "Black of canyon". Though the boys assure us that one is able to do the difficult places everybody well umtragen, however because the rainy season has already started we renounce for safety's sake another paddle adventure there the danger insists that it rains in a side valley so strongly that the river all at once unexpectedly rises (although we have beaming sunshine) and thus very sudden become substantially more demanding and more dangerous than our paddle arts is good. We come about evening on the river and as in the confirmation we will be based all at once from a really violent thunderstorm with so strong storm gusts with bend even a tent pole, surprises. But we are still young and Rio Apurimac will not already run away to us.
 
Tough ascents: Although the rainy season has already started we could be persuaded by Ulrike and Jose, nevertheless, to try the route through the Andes to the north. The height profile of the distance looks out like the heart frequency curve with the ECG. The street leads from the Andes summits of more than 4000 m every time again down in the river valleys on 1800 m before it immediately again about the next mountain range goes. The only level pieces are the short theoretical moment on the passports and in the valleys if one of rise on departure changes and vice versa. It looks thus as if we had found the most mountainous stretching of the world!
 
Cultivation of potatoes: From Peru the potato has conquered the world and also even today the potato seems to be here in the Andes the mostly tilled vegetables. Even in the Steilhängen on just 4000 m we still see potato fields from the Peruvians being managed in laborious manual labour. Now and again tractors) the fields also help from oxen pulled wooden ploughs (in the more level areas even every now and then to plough, however, mostly the Peruvians and female Peruvians stand in her coloured traditional clothes with a heel in the mountains and dig up the fields. Although there just 4000 different potato kinds is the potato immernoch counts as food of the poor Andes Indians and in the restaurants rice is mostly served.
 
Cemetery with view: Absolutely one of the cemeteries with one of the nicest views we have seen on our trip.
 
Señor, Amigo and Gringo: Señor, Amigo and Gringo are three kinds in which we are ordinarily appealed." Señor" what mostly respect expresses, unfortunately, it is used in the least one. From "Amigo" there are two versions. The friendly version and deferential one, even if less formal version of Señor. However, unfortunately, "Amigo" is used by the employees of Hostels, travel agencies, tour suppliers and restaurants, one at the more tourist places constantly appeal around you to a room, a lunch or a tour to overcharged to prices untercheer. The form most impolite by far of the address is "Gringo". Though we could find no exact translation, has said, however, as Nadine in Bolivia sometimes that here a lot of Gringos were it was reprimanded by the locals immediately that it would be very impolite somebody as a Gringo to call and that it concerns "Extranjeros" (foreigner). Thus we were demanded in Bolivia even sometimes as "a Gringos" and from a man he was so got drunk that he could hardly stand more (he was also reprimanded immediately by his friend). Nevertheless, here in Peru the address "Gringo" is our everyday companion. Even small stoppers yet are not able to properly run call us in such a way. Although here hear going past in the central Andes presumably up to a few cyclists hardly tourists we several times daily the call "Gringo dame plata!" (Freely translates: "Rich idiot give me money!". However, we also think that many of the easy Andes farmers do not know at all that "Gringo" is an unfriendly word, because often they call it to us beaming with delight, with luminous eyes and ecstatically waving behind). 
 
The descendants of the Incas: Peru is also called with pleasure Egypt of the Andes, however, as well as already in Egypt has also been left in Peru not a lot from the former shine and Gloria. Although Peru was in 2002 the strongest economy in South America and the income is about twice as high in Peru like in neighbouring Bolivia poverty seems to be here a big problem. Here presumably because of the relative prosperity of the country (also thanks of the tourism" food is rather expensive (1 l of milk 0.7 €, cheese cheapest 1 kg 4, - € are more expensive, e.g., than in New Zealand!) . We find it expensive and it is mysterious to us as just the South American Indians of the Andes live those on her small agriculture and dispose of nearly no income, can survive here. The Routa 3 is a grit runway bad now and again and, nevertheless, the lifeline of the central Andes. Where have the paved streets of the Incas remained? Also from the nice water canals we in the Machu Picchu have seen no track is to be seen in the easier villages. Only in the morning in some villages there is or evening water or the water bubbles somewhere of the rock, and instead of in a nice watering place it lands in a deep mud puddle at the same time as a mosquito's hotbed serves. Particularly we are concerned as us the houses many villagers see in those spending her life. We see the mucky grounds (which are rather slushy with rain) very frequent and in a village on 3000 m many houses from a few boards are cobbled together and the scratches between the Holsstämmen are so big that one can last laxly with the arm in the hut. I would not like to fancy at all as uncomfortable it is here in winter or with a thunderstorm. Although Bolivia is much poorer as said we have never seen there a such poverty. We had rather the feeling that the Bolivians though in very easy relations, however, still relatively happily and contently live. Also around the medical care it seems to be ordered in Peru substantially worse than in Bolivia. While we have never seen people with missing teeth there them all (also in the entlegensten villages) artificial teeth in Bolivia, for example have nearly toothless older South American Indians are here rather the normal case. Maybe the reason that one to us lies in the apparent stronger poverty of the rural population several times daily "Dame plata" behind never shouts (a little bit we in Peru have belonged). Actually, the culture in Bolivia and in Peru (at least here in the Andes) is the same one and thus we can understand the crass differences only hard. Absolutely quite innocently in the crass income imbalance is not also the tourism which comes in the final effect only of one small well-to-do means and upper class too good ones (apart from the international tourism enterprises from overseas). The easy Peruvian hardly profits from many international money that in the country flows out. In the contrast his relative poverty is made clear to him just over and over again. Presumably it went out Peru just as Ladakh in Northern India. . When it was opened about 25 years ago for the tourism the Norwegian scientist Helen Norberg one of the villagers asked for the poorest house in the village. The man answered to her that there was no poverty here in the village. They all last well-to-do. Some years later, the tourism had made clear the western prosperity to the Ladakhis, the same man comes up to Helen Norberg and asks them desperately: "Helena please helf we, we are so poor!" We hope this destiny saved that at least to the Bolivians remains.
 
236. Weekly report 03.11. - 09/12/2007

Route: Cincheros, Ayacucho, Huanta
 
Hard stages: The distance of Cusco from to Ayacucho was anything but light! On 606 km we might cycle a total of 10,100 metres height uphill. The street led us constantly from a river valley situated on about 1800 m about up to 4250-m-high passports down in the next river valley and again about the next passport. Up to the first 200 km and a small interpiece of maybe 10 km we had to do it with grit runway here and there was so bad that we could sometimes cycle ourselves downhill just 7 km in one hour. Nevertheless, luckily we had up to two evening thunderstorms no rain and also the wind has left alone us more or less. However, with headwind and rain this would have become with certainty the hardest Radeletappe on our trip.
 
Road duty: Then the partly bad grit distance has also demanded her road duty. 
No, with road duty I do not mean the Peruvians who fill in armed a blow hole with earth and then with the barrow the street with a barrow and a shovel block off around from all coming through cars to require Lkws and penalties money; bicycles cost here because nothing. With road duty I mean the countless loose spokes and a broken spoke in Nadines back wheel (exactly this that she had got in Northern Argentina new and which I had the last week Cusco over again in a bicycle store to the postcentred!) as well as a broken carrier, also with Nadine. I could repair the carrier scantily with a cable binder and then allow to weld in Ayacucho with a very nice art locksmith again.
 
Ayacucho: Ayacucho is praised as the second-nicest town of Peru (to Cusco), and also does all credit to her name. A very nice Plaza de Armas, one of the big triumphal curves, many churches from the Kolonialszeiten and many Konolialbauten make the town a small treasure chest. Nevertheless, in contrast to Cusco Ayacucho is hardly visited by foreign tourists what is also due to the fact absolutely that the town was closed during the active times of the "luminous path" for foreigners. There are Peruvian tourists, nevertheless, richly. We have found a very nice Hostel and the view of our breakfast place on the roof terrace was really very nice.
 
Sendero Luminoso: The maoistische revolutionary movement Sendero Luminoso ("Luminous path") originated here at the university of Ayacucho in the 1970th and was fed by the ideas of professor Abimael Guzmán. Later developed of the Sendero Luminoso, supported by the highland South American Indians, to an armed guerrilla warfare organisation it wanted to overthrow the government with deadly political, economic and social riots. The hot phase with the murder were financed by mayors and political leaders in remote towns, the Massakrierung of uncooperative villagers, with bomb attempts on police stations and power stations as well as with destructions of projects from the government and the church, was in the 80th. The reactions of the government were as crude and in the so resulted civil war 40000 died or disappeared approximate - 60000 Peruvians (predominantly from the central highland). When Abimael Guzmán was caught in 1992 and was condemned to a lifelong prison punishment the movement broke down bit by bit.
 
Cow's country and goat country: As well as we uphill and downhill cycle we also change constantly between cow's country and nanny goat country to and fro. Because there in the region round the passports thanks to enough rains green pastures is here we hit by the aerial heights always on many cows (and sheep). The further we, nevertheless, in the valleys come down the more drily and more dusty it becomes, until we have, finally, nearly even thorn undergrowth and cacti round ourselves: Nanny goat country! For us as a middle European it is too dry in nanny goat country, dusty and hot (more than 30°C) and we try to come over and over again as fast as possible high to the cow's country (nicely chilly, even if sometimes light night frost). Another disadvantage of nanny goat country are many sandy aviation which there is here. From many stings the sandy aviation our legs look out as if we chicken pox would have. The sting places look out, unfortunately, not only thus like with chicken pox they separate itch in particular with me still for weeks. By our constant mountain journey and driving downhill we also change constantly from a climate zone in another and thus we feel than we would cycle constantly from the sauna in the fridge, only to land shortly after again in the sauna.
 
237. Weekly report 10.12. - 16/12/2007

Route: Huancayo, Jauja, Cerro de Pasco, Huanuco
 
Nice valley and Falk: From Ayacucho we follow a nice drily river valley slowly uphill. Though it goes by no means level, however, at least we must cross no gigantic mountains, even if many sandy aviation it here below gives us almost eat up. In the late afternoon we meet on Falk a German motorcyclist who also does not feel Peru as soooo dangerously (almost all the other cyclists like us we hit spend the night from "security reasons" almost exclusively in Hostels, in public facilities (Train, churches...) or families, and when we travelled around 2 hours talking in the road edge stood we decide that it would be presumably easier here of our tents to hit and to spend the night together here. Said done and thus Martin and Falk still sit half a night with absolutely clear star sky outdoors around travel experiences to exchange.
 
Pobre Gringita: Michi, one of our friends from castle Lim, has sent us by email the origin of the word Gringo. Therefore, the word Gringo originated during the Mexican American war. The Americans carried green (green) uniforms and were asked by the Mexicans to go home "green go". The debate from "ee" resembles rather "i" and thus became from it Gringo! According to another definition arises the word of the name "griego" (Greek), however, I have never heard what of Greeks in South America. Even if is absolutely clear just under gebildeteren and wealthier that Gringo is a very contemptuous name for white foreigners, this is not presumably known to many easier country dwellers or small children. Once, we fill in just our water bottles in a small village, an older woman (absolutely 70) joins to us to talk to us. When she gets to know that we by our bicycles about the next passport situated on 4000 m want, At night "have to sleep in our tent and cook our food themselves again with our petrol cooker she looks at Nadine quite compassionately and means from the deepest hearts: "Pobre Gringita". Freely into German translated would mean this "poor small Dinilein (or Nadinechen)". However, mostly the friendly intention of Gringo is not so evident for us completely and thus a belonging serving of equanimity often is necessarily around the countless Gringo shouts take calmly (mostly absolutely more than 200 per day)
 
Hot iron: Travelling can be very demanding and thus we also want to position ourselves on our Internet site to the difficult things to us on our trip meet, even if it would be easier absolutely to themselves before it to press! We were invited by Juan, a football trainer and his family in Jauja to the dinner. During the entertainment means Juan who has already coached a Peruvian football team in Sweden that, nevertheless, the Germans would be very racist. We were confronted with the subject Racism already on occasion on our trip and thus we ask Juan what he under racism understands. Together with his daughter who has her teacher also erkärt that Germans would be racist, we come to a definition them says that racism is if somebody is worse treated on grounds of his descent or race. As examples of racism terms of abuse were called or if somebody must pay a raised price, for called reasons. According to this definition I could at least calm Juan that Germany would be racist not significantly. Has never belonged because from a case where somebody had to pay more because he foreigner is and terms of abuse there is absolutely, nevertheless I can hardly remember to have seen personally. Now we report Juan about our experiences in Peru where terms of abuse (Gringo calls) and suddenly exploding prices to our everyday life belong. Daily we agree absolutely in at least 50x Gringo or "Gringo born with money" hinterhergerufen and the Schummeleien with the shopping we also experience almost every day. To Juans definition Peru would be very racist, however, now Juan means that something else would be. OK. I ask him now whether it for him racism would have been if he in Sweden more for his hotel room would have had to pay because he Peruvian is answered what he of course with, "yes". There follows a short pensive break and, finally, we change the subject. Nevertheless, for us the subject was not finished yet so fast and thus we spend the next days with it for hours about the subject Racism to think. Why it is a racism if a light membranous European a swarthy South American worse, however, treats not vice versa!? Why it is a racism if a "wise man" (even if he is very poor) a "black" millionnaire swindles, while it if a "poor black" a "white millionnaire" hard over the ear lashes out absolutely OK. or even compensatory justice is?! Believe the problem lies in it that the word Racism is often misunderstood and is used. The real subject is not because a racism separate discrimination. Discrimination is for us if somebody for which reasons also worse and worse is treated than someone else or is disadvantaged. Thus there is discrimination against foreigners, women, children, homosexual, sick people, old people... (the list would let presumably forever continued). The reasons for discrimination are presumably as varied, however, completely in front including are absolutely envy, fear, loathing, misinformation, manipulation and ignorance. Merely if the discrimination on the race theory of Charles Darwin concerns reasonably it to itself, nevertheless, around racism. However, nevertheless, mostly the reason for the discrimination is purely and simply pure envy. Faith that also many "neo-Nazis" in principle rather from envy (the foreigner is better it than me!) act then from Miss-interpreted race-theoretical attempts (even if these are maybe pushed forward!). At last we must find out that what is often called racism, actually, rather envy reasonable discrimination is what makes, nevertheless, no appreciable difference for the affected person (as for example to us here in Peru) in the feeling (even if it is by definition a gigantic difference!) . Nevertheless, interestingly we have the feeling that the distinctive envy rules here rather with the wealthier and empires. Most intensely we had the feeling with an extremely rich Estanciabesitzer in Uruguay. He has called us pejorative rich affluent children of the 1st world they would have no other worries and could think to themselves thus around protection of animals. He, however, as a citizen of the 3rd world, would have there quite different worries. Well, the good man was absolutely a multiple millionnaire!!!
 
Mining town: We are already 3 days to a marvellous river followed very much to paddle would have invited and we were already to be inserted in considering again a small spin with our Packrafts as us, finally, to La Oroya have come. La Oroya is the Peruvian centre for the dismantling of metals and presumably the dirtiest place we on our trip have seen. Only from wearing out we have got headaches and difficulty in breathing and when the next morning a train with a gigantic tank with the label "Arsenic" has driven past us we left more than gladly our boats in the stack bags. Nevertheless, in principle the mining seems to be very tolerable, because nobody has dug out the Eisenbahnwagons half buried by a landslide.
 
Attention skunk: With skunk I do not mean of course Nadine, nevertheless, we try to wash "almost" every evening before going to bed. Sometimes, nevertheless, with water shortage or with too adverse weather conditions this remains on the distance, so that we smell mouldy then presumably already a little!
 
"No Mataras":" You should not kill" is absolutely one of the common religious principles of all world religions, however, no religious principle is despised so. Mostly the people invent simply any reason why one in this or that situation may however kill. As well as also in the other South American countries so also ask in Peru the auto, coach and truck driver for the protection of the various ecclesiastical patron saints, however, on the street what becomes raced the stuff holds. Curve reaping belongs here apparently to the good tone and instead of the brake simply becomes to use with aggressive Huperei the way "freigeblasen". It is worth the right of the stronger one. The fact that to one a fully occupied coach with creaky tyres on a bendy mountain distance on own track meets, unfortunately, is no rarity and thus it is no miracle that the street edges with the crosses of the had a fatal accident ones are lined. Though the relatives of these accident victims have summed up it with the simple admonition to Christian basic values, however, interest does, unfortunately, nobody.
 
Laundry: As well as already in India popular places are to be washed so also here in Peru rivers around his laundry. If the water was not already from the chemicals of the mines and from the oil of the cars which are washed in the river, at least the detergent the mountain water clear once would be completely contaminated undrinkable make.
 
Thunderstorms: The rainy season is steady in the advance and meanwhile immense thunderstorms circle, actually, constantly round us. Mostly we have luck and we come through either still fast before the pelting rain, or it has just stopped as us come. Nevertheless, every now and then we also land in the middle in it and thus a thunderstorm on 4000 m is already impress. One is present virtually in the middle in it instead of only.
 
238. Weekly report 17.12. - 23/12/2007

Route: Huanuco, La union, Huaraz
 
Radiointerview: In Huanuco we lay half a rest day one around a radiointerview with hr1 to take up. From all radiointerviews we up to now with hr1 have made up to now this was by far in most harmonious (in view of organisation, contact and interview), what Nadine even spontaneously to the comment: ""Susanne does not come from hr1, or? Nevertheless, it comes directly from the sky!" has arranged.
 
Temple of the crossed hands: Before the gates of Huanuco lies the "temple of the crossed hands", named after are to be seen in natural size in tone to burnt hands there in the main temple. The crossed hands were presumably burnt with about 4000 years! 
 
Kotosch culture: The temple arrangement became from the Kotosch, one of the oldest Andes cultures built. Unfortunately, nearly nothing is known by the life and the culture of the Kotosch. Especially impressively I find the plans of the buildings round the temple lying. The abgespaceten forms can have arisen absolutely easily of the feather of a modern designer.
 
Election campeign: This electoral advertisement does not mean that shovels forbidden should belong and be bought, instead, to excavator, but that who work wants this party should choose and accordingly should make his cross. Beside the party programme "Work" (shovels) there are also the party programmes "Environment" (tree), "food" (soup pot) and "strength" (lion). The symbols are also not hopefully illustrated on the electoral slips of paper, because that would however question the official Alphabethenquote of 90% in Peru.
 
Stair with drainage: With it this mucky stair with a shower simply weggewaschen does not become a water channel covered with a stone was inserted in the middle.
 
Pill turner's beetle: Here in the Peruvian Andes we have discovered all at once pill turner's beetle. The beetles run backward and, besides, curl up a dung ball before (or behind) here. Once I have seen two beetles having rolled together a dung ball. While I me to take photos angepirscht has ran suddenly only of her and then the other beetle in different direction of the dung ball away and flew away, finally. There I sat now with my camera and a desolate dung ball.
 
Road duty part II: The hard distance demands furthermore her tribute and after an other broken spoke with Nadine now Martin's cog is in it. After 60,000 km both Lowrider connections (front wheel carrier) break. Thus break so probably 5 mm of high-grade steel record and 6 mm of high-grade steel screw!!! On the photo we try just the uncompleted screw from the frame rauszubohren. First we have still tried to cut open to turn out a mother in order the screw, however, after several died away nuts because of a too big electrode in the welding apparatus and unite Nearly to cardiac infarctions of Martin his aluminium frames saw already melt, finally, we change to the Aufbohrmethode. Also here again several Nearly cardiac infarctions after the mechanic only with a too big drill and then with a dull drill my front wheel fork maltreats. At last the mechanic buys a new drill with the old screw succeeds more or less rauszubohren. With expand of the hole, nevertheless, the drill breaks off. Sometime I succeed the mechanic in his working fury the hole gigantic wants to expand to brake and to screw my screw! The fact that by the whole action my front wheel fork was not destroyed completely is, actually, a small miracle! Finally, again my back wheel rim opens shortly before Huaraz from the inside. Because of many spoke breaks we want to have with Nadines of new Hinterradfelg because of worse einspeicharbeit we this sometimes, nevertheless try to let weld the rim.
 
Mining: The mountains of Peru are rich in mineral resources and everywhere we hit on mines. However, beside the professional mines there are still many small mines in those the mine workers still we in the century before last everything in manual labour make. To the dismantling one of the coal which lies like here on the Poto in layers in the mountain the mine workers also set out even today with top heel and shovel and go connect the coal with barrow from the mountain! The tunnels themselves are still supported with wooden posts and there is electric light in the shafts just as little like pneumatic hammer or helmets!
 
Mines: Quite differently the big mines in which at least officially working security is capitalised work because. ("As the first security, as the second quality and then production"). Like the reality looks we can only suppose with the help of the train carriages with arsenic and with the help of the hard contaminated rivers, nevertheless!
 
Snow: We spend the night on about 4800 m above the Abra Yanashalla of passport on in the evening already some snow lay. Overnight, nevertheless, it starts to be snowing violently and although Nadine at night twice the snow of the tent knocks everything is buried in the morning again thickly under snow!
 
Almost white Christmas: We are gerademal 1000 km to the south of the equator and have here just summer!!! We write 21.12.2007 and since Christmas 2003 in Jordan we have the first Christmas almost white once more! If to us with pack of the bicycles and the fingers do not diminish of the tent half we could became be frostbitten the snowy scenery still even more enjoy!
 
Hard stage: Our meanwhile zugeschneite grit runway leads us further high in the mountains. Although it is not so precipitous at all we must often push on the slippery subsoil our bicycles. Round us raves a small blizzard and we ask around to us what the road description "only in the big curve around the valley and then downhill to Huaraz" should quite exactly mean. Behind every bend we hope for the big departure, nevertheless, instead another increase follows after a short departure. We presumably are somewhere between 4800 and 4900 metres height and the thin height air, the bad street, the snow and the blizzard demand everything of us! Finally, after 23 hard kilometres and 465 m of increase we reach the expected departure thanks to big stones on the grit runway, nevertheless, also is not so relaxing as expects.
 
Hidden mountains: Nevertheless, in the course of the day the weather slowly makes amends , we come out of the snowy zone and every now and then we are able to do even sporadically some of the mountain giants (a total of 50 mountains more than 5700 m!) of the Cordilliera Blanca recognise.
 
Finally, in Huaraz: After 25 days (besides, 1.5 rest days) we have mastered the 1500-km-long stage of Cusco to Huaraz through the central Andes of Peru. 1000 km of it we have put back on grit runway bad now and again. The street went constantly uphill and downhill and thus we were allowed to scale a total of 20,000 metres height in the increase. The stage to our hardly loaded bicycles in those so much it was especially hard has not broken like during whole 60,000 km before. We want to recommend the distance to nobody, but hardcore cyclist who can agree from mountains and bad grit runway not enough and to which aggressive dogs and the omnipresent "Gringi Gringo" calls come making no difference absolutely at her expense. Nevertheless, the letzen kilometres to Huaraz on nice tar are one true relief and after we will have found a very nice small Hostel we here about Christmas first of all our wounds (or. of our bicycles) leak which repair equipment again, our weekly reports make up, celebrate oh and also some Christmas. The look in the Cordilliera Blannca is over, by the way, from our Roomdoor!
 
239. Weekly report 24.12. - 30/12/2007

Route: Huaraz, Caraz, canyon del Pato, Chimbote, Casma
 
Christmas: Christmas was, whole as presumably also at home, nevertheless much more stressful than expected. We have virtually spent the whole day with it to write our weekly reports and our Christmas letter and and send. Even to the traditional Weihnachtskaffe we were not yet ready separate still sat sweating in the Internet cafe. Then, nevertheless, in the evening we have just still got to go to a small restaurant, before we have liked tiredly in our beds. We have spent the Christmas Days also in Huaraz and most time with it uses the damages to repair to our bicycles and some other pieces of equipment. Adventurously the action in Martin was absolutely his back wheel rim torn from the inside left. Though the welder did not want himself so surely to the bicycle rim ranwagen, however, with much good coaxing he has however tried it and as well as it looks the action seems to have succeeded!
 
Clarification: Apparently the Peruvian tourism authority has already recognised that the so-called "Gringo discount " is no rarity. In a clarification campaign the Peruvians are asked from the tourists to require the "correct price" and not to attack the "tourists". In the tourist centres the campaign already seems to fruchten, because the Peruvians in Puno, Cusco and Huarz were substantially friendlier and more honest than in the remaining Peruvian Andes.
 
Impressive camp site: Directly at the entrance to the canyon del Pato have made the road builder in the first approach the tunnel too near to the canyon, afterwards Presumably for stability reasons they have dug an other tunnel a few metres farther in the rock inside and thus the first tunnel for us offers a nearly perfect overnight stay place. After some metres the tunnel is open because to the canyon and thus we virtually sit like on a roofed platform in the middle of the canyon.
 
Canyon del Pato: The narrow canyon del Pato with his precipitous cliff faces, to many tunnels and the river winding right down at the bottom compensate us richly for the nevertheless 150-km-long detour on our way to Casma.
 
Energy fill up: The small housing development in the stream power station below the canyon del Pato works with the nice small houses and the palms like a small holiday's settlement. Maybe the whole is here a test project of the Peruvian tourism association under the motto: "Fill up just briefly energy"!
 
Chilli: The valley below the canyon del Pato is very fertile and thus we bump into richly agriculture. Beside water melons, tomato, cotton, roses, asparagi, rice, strawberries, maize, cabbage, and pumpkins it is grown here also Chilli. Then to the dry one the pods are simply laid out in the sand. Because the area is rather wild-like here, nevertheless there are many irrigation canals the water of Rio Santa on the fields lead. In our guide Santa had been advised against Raftingtouren on Rio, because he has got dirty by many mines in the upper reaches very much. Nevertheless, the agrarian industry seems no problem with it her fields are closed with the toxic substances of the mine industry to water.
 
Overnight stay with Charly: In Cusco we have Sekiji, an email in he Willian about us has written a Japanese pilgrim's eagle got to know and him to his friend Willian in Casma has told. A few days later we got an email of Willian in he to us has invited him in Casma to visit. Because our experiences with the Peruvians were not so gratifying up to now completely we have resolved to take the detour of about 200 km on ourselves and to make an excursion after the south over again briefly. We had on the last kilo matrices to Casma taut headwind in the Peruvian desert and came so later than planned only against 17:30 on Sunday afternoon in Casma. What we before did not know was that Willian is a journalist and works in principle always in the evening. We have him I believe just on the way to the work got and thus he brings us to his cousin Charly with we the night can spend. Together with Charly and an other cousin we go in the evening then on the runway. After a small strengthening in a baker's it goes with Charlys jeep all over through the town, mostly, nevertheless, we turn rounds around the Plaza de Armas. Peruvians hear music in principle loving with pleasure very much loudly and although one of the boxes has a loose contact and only partially functioned almost the ears are chucked out to me behind. After a few rounds around the Plaza we park the car and enjoy the fresh chill night breeze on a park-bench on the Plaza, before Nadine and I at last dead tired (the hard headwind day in the hot desert was really strenuous) fall on our Isomatten.
 
240. Weekly report 31.12. - 06/01/2007

Route: Casma, Chimbote, Trujillo
 
Willian and his family: The next day we are fetched at Willian and drive with the motorcycle taxi of Willian cousin to the house of his parents where his oldest sister already a tasty lunch for ourselves has cooked. There we did not want the Willian the feeling has to have to feed to us we have not told him immediately that we are vegetarians and thus one means to swim eyes to and by as cooked in the soup the chicken legs and the tomato sauce with tuna is prepared. We often are in catch-22 situations then if we want to say on time that we vegetarian are this is called virtually also that we expect that we feed become. If we can miss the optimum time we afterwards also no more say that we are, actually, vegetarians, because we do not want to injure our hosts. Thus it comes that consume more chicken than during the last 15 years we here in Casma! Willian has, by the way , another six brothers and sisters and thus we spend an amusing afternoon with the family.
 
Sylvester: The turn of the year stands in a queue and Willian persuades to us him, nevertheless, here in Casma to spend. Differently than with us where the old year is dismissed, is celebrated in Peru, nevertheless, the arrival of the new year. This means that the festivities at the turn of the year from 31.12 on 01.01 do not take place separate only after midnight take place. We spend the evening with Willian's aunts and because we go to bed as a cyclist ordinarily at 8:00 o'clock, we are already so tired shortly after 23:00 o'clock that we we back on the way to Charly make to go to bed. We have come just with Charly as a Willian a phone call agrees and puts out we today with a friend spend the night where it before still a small New Year's Eve celebration gives. So we pack up our seven things and set out over again, because we think that we can lie down there after short hello for sleeping. But as said the festivities go off in Peru only after midnight and thus all sisters and the mother of Willian appear all at once. Although the celebration, actually, in the small circle takes place music is danced wildly too nothing but and only with effort I can escape before it. Also she tries me to a glass of champagne or to a beer are to be persuaded stubbornly, nevertheless, my champagne glass I can transmit luckily to Nadine. Finally, completely exhausted we can withdraw at 03:00 o'clock in the morning for sleeping, however, next door the festivities go on till 08:00 o'clock in the morning. When we get up at 10:00 o'clock the teacher is still awake and wurschtelt in the house around, however, after a breakfast with coke, Kräckern and cold chicken lies down them at least briefly for sleeping. 
 
El Viejo: A very nice New Year's Eve tradition in Peru is that the old year is burnt in the form of a doll stuffed with clothes symbolically. The stuffed dolls are lighted at midnight then on the street.
 
New Year party: William had on it till 8:00 o'clock on the celebration stood and thus it was no miracle that he not as agreed upon 9:00 o'clock again there was to be visited around with us the ruins situated before the town gates. Nevertheless, instead, we do not go in the afternoon to a New Year party with live tape and richly audience where we this time around a small little dance come round
 
Farewell: In spite of all many charming people whom we have got to know here in Casma one means to say goodbye for us but still, because the rainy season in Equador is also in approach. After a tasty breakfast with Willian's friend he accompanies us by the bicycle still up to the outskirts before we us alone again on the continuation of the journey make.
 
Camping in the dessert: The Peruvian coast is predominantly a sandy desert in which thanks to secure water supply the former oases have developed meanwhile to towns. We come by Chimbote a town them her income with the fish factories resident there makes. We have not apparently got a period in a little to the smell of fish is produced then keeps to a certain extent. Later we find scanty 30 kilometres then a marvellous camp site behind a sandy dune and spend thus a quiet night. 
 
Adventure tyre change: With these nice small tyres a tyre change can become quite fast sometimes the big adventure!
 
Casa de Ciclistas in Trujillo: Middle of the 80th has opened Lucho his Casa de Ciclistas "La Amistad" and since has accommodated scanty 1000 cyclists here. While the first 15 years with 500 visitors ran still rather comfortably has provided of the Radreisebom of the letzen years for the fact that meanwhile more than hundred cyclists find her way to Lucho. Because many several days to even several months stay here is real always a cyclist here. Nevertheless, on account of informal discrepancies Lucho has moved in 2006 with his wife Aracelli, his 13-year-old daughter Angela and the baby Lance in a house situated around the corner that, nevertheless, so small ones is that it is enough just for the family. Thus rules at the moment the unhappy situation that the cyclists are accommodated furthermore in the house by Luchos mother (who is actually rather unhappy with many cyclists), while Lucho does not live as said any more here. Here many of the cyclists them come seem the saying "Wednesday casa acts casa" (My house is to be interpreted your house) also a little bit wrong and see the Casa de ciclistas rather than a free Hostel. Is meant with it, however, rather: Feel like to mattock what, however, also one means to itself with clear up and clean should involve. In principle Lucho and Araceli want to put a new floor on her house to be able to accommodate the cyclists then there, however, at the moment the plans still fail because of the financial means. To be able to help have here at least small a little we a donation ground furnished in which the cyclists can make a donation and help therefore the new Casa de Ciclistas to be able to build.
 
Making music priest: Here in Trujillo some Germans have also sat down and thus we go twice together with Lucho to the pizzeria of a German friend. On the week-end makes here Amadeus, a German priest, live music. Beside piano, accordion, Melodika, and trumpet, he also plays the saxophone, while he of Lucho, the actually drummer is with some rhythm instruments is accompanied.
Chan Chan: 5 km to the north of Trujillo there lies the former city of Chan Chan of the Chimu of empire. The Chimu lived in this town with her 60000 inhabitants on 850 A.D... up to her conquest in 1470 A.D. by the Incas. The whole town with her houses, canals, temples and warehouses was built from unburnt clay bricks and thus floods and the rare however still violent rainfall have many parts of the town weggewaschen. Meanwhile to itself many areas of the town with roofs and tarpaulins (if it rains sometimes) protected to prevent a perfect destruction. Differently than the predecessor's culture of the Moche the Chimu have laid her main attention, nevertheless, not on artistically decorated tone vessels and splendid frescoes separate on metal objects and urban development. Anyhow we have forgotten with desolately our bicycle and front door key and this have come unfortunately only established as us in the Huancas 20 km away del Sol y de la Luna. Instead of visiting the ruins the Moche we cycle again back to Chan Cahan and have the gigantic luck that our key in the cash small house was delivered. Thus we will remain even 1 day longer here to visit also the Mocheruinen.
 
Hairless dogs: These hairless traditional Peruvian dogs have a body temperature them those is higher than of normal dogs. At that time traditionally the dogs should have been used as Body-warmer to the treatment by arthritis. What makes to us, nevertheless, taken aback the fact that is we here in the desert are and under circumstances the surroundings temperature, nevertheless, at least the temperature in the bulging ones suns itself to recumbent stones there is substantially higher than the body temperature of the dogs.
Farewell party: One of Luchos sisters goes for a year to Brazil to work, and thus there is a small resignation party for them to the Lucho even Wolfgang could persuade with him to make music a little bit. Entrancedly we are we on the new one the Peruvians it create on a family celebration on the hellichten day with nothing but music and wild Getanze on the legs put. Then at last is, nevertheless, predominantly Nadine with Lucho in dance.
 
241. Weekly report 07.01. - 13/01/2007

Route: Trujillo
 
Huaca del Sol y de la Luna: The solar pyramids and lunar pyramids to the south of Trujillo are the impressive Überbleibsel of the Moche culture which had here from 100 - in 800 A.D. the centre of her empire. Nevertheless, interesting in the pyramids is that these are, actually, in each case always 2 pyramids. Since roughly all hundred years have filled in the Moche because her "old" temple with clay bricks and on the so won new foundation have built a new bigger temple. I.e. during in express the form of a pyramid appears a pyramid standing on the head lies in the internal one by after obenhin greater to growing temple arrangements. Because the new temples were always simply built on top about that and were made bigger and bigger, besides, also the external walls the pyramid form originated.
 
Mural paintings: Thanks to the fact that the old temple arrangements were completely filled in with the clay bricks and by the dry Wüstenklilma all wall frescoes and mural paintings are very well-preserved of course!
 
Adobe brick: Every clay brick is marked, by the way, with a symbol and the archeologists suppose that the marks from according to tax law found were made to see which household has delivered how many the brick.
 
Moche culture: The Moche were very warlike people, and human victims belonged to her rituals. Thus duels with young men (no children and women) with whom the loser was sacrificed afterwards were organised. To relieve the tortures of the torture and those of the next sacrificial death to the victim, nevertheless, he got a special Drogenkoktail given. While the duel and the sacrificial ritual were carried out only in the presence of some high aristocrats afterwards the high priest drank the blood of the victim, nevertheless, before the public!
 
Historical research: The Moche were experts in the potter and in the absence of a written language they have shown her culture on the painted sound vessels and have received thus of the future generations. Many sound vessels are found, by the way, often in old Mülhalden. Thus it is also no miracle that garbage waste dumps are hotly desired with archeologists, because they can find here many interesting things with the help of he them conclusions on the longest past cultures can move. Nevertheless, there our garbage waste dumps gigantic nowadays have what good, because with many plastic garbage we make at least some archeologists in a few Thousand years very happy.
 
Shower: There is rain here in Trujillo, actually, hardly (maybe 3-5x in the year), however, as us exactly here are it catches substantially in to pour. The roof of our room exists merely of a plastic foil covered with reed mats, nevertheless, with the first downpour in the morning the construction still functions rather well and it drips / water flows only at two places into the room. However, when it in the evening starts to rain over again violently it becomes problematic. Already in the morning deep tubs full with water had formed in the plastic foil by the new rainfall meanwhile are so deep that the roof beams threaten to break and the foil is shortly before the snatch. We look together with Jean-Babtiste, a Canadian cyclist who lives here already since some months, all available boards on the roof terrace together and try to support the roof and to lift something, so that the water can run off. Nevertheless, the foil has become quite rather fragile by the strong UV radiation and starts to tear. Now by the litre a deep brown mud broth flows into the room. Luckily we have cleaned in the morning the room! Then, however, after just 2 hours we have sealed everything more or less so far and have strengthened that we can sleep overnight quietly without having to fear that everything breaks down and we are washed away by the floods.
 
End well, everything well! After the a little bit frosty receipt the relation with Luchos to mother and his sisters a little bit after we after the farewell party of one sister in the evening still together with Lucho loosened the space have cleared up and have wiped. When we also still the for some time defective big water barrel (in Trujillo there is At night no water and thus one must fill during the day water in a water barrel to be able to rinse at night the toilet.) have repaired and again for the small washing bowl have exchanged them in the meantime had to hold out, nevertheless, the ice had broken, finally. In recognition of our help we were invited by Luchos mother on a plate of soup and are in a good mood completely surprised we and happily she is. But I am able to do her frustration towards many cyclists who use now and again her house only as a cheap overnight stay possibility and help not also sometimes kleinwenig, understand very well.
 
242. Weekly report 14.12. - 20/01/2007

Route: Trujillo, Chiclayo, Piura, Máncora
 
Pero mañana seguro! "But tomorrow certainly!" . I believe the saying here some cyclists have given before us already from themselves, however, however, there was something what has shifted the planned departure over and over again to the back. With us these were the lost key, the farewell party of the sister, the repair of the roof and the Wasserkontainers and a bicycle round trip with the youngsters of the part of town of Porvenir. Then in the end we have still waited to two Argentines and a French them meanwhile there had also come itself new bicycle pockets left (the Argentine had been pinched his). 60 km to the north of Trujillo there should be because a village in itself some thieves on bicycle traveller have specified, however because she itself to 5 cyclists did not run we want to venture together depart. Thus we stand by packed bicycles on the Monday morning, finally, by 5 travel bicycles already before the house and take the resignation photos. The last photo is just taken and as a Lucho to the Argentine his camera back gives this falls for some reasons on the ground and the objective is bent. Then in search of a mechanic who can repair the camera this day also passes and thus we "check" in the afternoon again one! Lucho does not want to let go for us yet and under the agreement that we clear up his bicycle workshop and afterwards still to the beach tomorrow together first with him go we remain still a next day. Nevertheless, the cleaning out of the bicycle workshop takes place in Peruvian kind only in the late afternoon, so that we do not come, nevertheless, to the beach. But tomorrow we will open absolutely!
 
Finally we leave! To believe hardly, nevertheless, finally, nevertheless, after 10 days we open again. On parting Aracelli plants one more rose together with Nadine and after several thick embraces, however, we are again on the street.
 
Escort: To bring us certainly by Paijan, the place with the bicycle robber, we get an escort from Lucho, Jean-Babtiste and Enrique. In Paijan the robbers are anyhow with the motorcycle taxis and the police under a cover. In the place is not to be driven yet thus the problem, however, in the place the motorcycle taxi drivers discover one and organise the raid. After one has left then Paijan the robbers waylay for one behind the next sandy dune or in the sugarcane fields and attack one. The police takes the whole surely calmly, although is known where the robbers live! Thus we roll in the beginning with 5 and later by 6 bicycles abssolut sicherf and unchecked by the place. After a letzen resignation photo in the desert our overseers cycle again back and they want to take the coach to Trujillo taken, nevertheless, from the place. 
 
Ice factory: In Casma we were to be spent the night by the owner of a small ice factory from Chiclayo been invited at him if we came through. When we will come, finally, we of course with a tasty ice record entertained and I must pull myself together really very much to say "no gracias" as me even more ice is offered. At the end I would still have to them the whole factory leergefuttert!
 
Living on the garbage dump: The waste disposal is fundamental still a very serious subject in South America and so long no by the state organised system gives and so long the poverty of the social substratum still so alarmingly is these still become furthermore people they surrender and from the garbage waste dump must live!
 
Dessert crossing: On our wide way to the north we must have by a smaller desert on we for scanty 200 km no water supply. We fill in our water bag and all water bottles up to the edge, and then thus it is still enough for a small cat's laundry in the evening.
 
Mala Vida: Allowedly, the small place on the edge of the desert cannot offer to his inhabitants even more than heat, wind and sand, however, to christen him "Mala of Vida", "bad life", already belongs quite a belonging serving of humor (or resignation!). The label on the house of the medical care is especially frightening with the name, hence, also: "Posto de Salud Vida Mala", or: "Health post bad life"!
 
Cracked travellers: On our wide way to the north we hit only on a German pilgrim's eagle in 7 months of Alaska up to here had cycled!!!! (We plan scanty 1.5 years for the distance!) . To make apparently without right rest days, without guides and without bicycle speedometer this cyclist is on the move and thus it is no miracle that he has completely burnt out meanwhile. He is physical and so exhausted mentally that he has, actually, no more desire to weiterradeln. Later we meet only few kilometres then in the middle of Nothing on a traveller from Colombia to ourselves, to the peace, has made on foot on the way after Tierra del Fuego. 4.5 months he has needed of Colombia up to here and even other 12 months are planned. However, self-tinkered "La Paz" helmet (peace) seems to offer no especially good solar protection. What to us because a little bit taken aback make is that the Colombian speaks very badly Spanish. The tropical sun has presumably seemed to him a little bit too strongly the helmet and thus he is dehydrogenated a little bit and confused therefore a little bit. No miracle, nevertheless, he has only one 250 ml big empty water bottle with himself which we fill in to him then also immediately 2x.
 
Máncora: Now since 16 months we are to be had bathed in South America without even just one sometimes in the sea. If we by the sea were it was too cold thanks to the wintry temperatures and when it became warmer we were on the move in the Andes. Now shortly before the crossing the border from Peru we use our last opportunity for a short bath vacation!
 
Scorpion: Now already for the second time a scorpion has hidden here in Peru at the night under our tent tarpaulin. When we the tarpaulin then pack up, nevertheless, again he flees fast under the next clod of earth, back in the sure shade.
 
Border crossing: The border is whole from Peru to Ecuador as well as we love them. We must make the crossing the border formalities already before the last small towns. Now one means to reach once again anyhow by a tangle from street states and stores the Ecuadorianische side of the border. There we have to do ourselves once more by some narrow and blind shopping streets durchfragen, to 6 km finally later at the town exit of the check posts comes in we receive our entry stamp
 

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